Originally Posted by
pizzaguy
THis is how I do it:
Engine off, car sitting, battery better be 12.2 volts or higher. If the battery is over 13.5 volts, it is being overcharged badly. If under 12, it is bad or is not being charged properly.
Starting engine (you need a helper for this) voltage across battery will drop but better not drop below 10.5 volts.
Engine idling should yield a battery voltage of 12.5-13.8.
Engine at 2000 rpm (you need a helper for this) battery voltage should be 13.4-14.4.
Moving the convertible top, raising and lowering windows, or having the engine cooling fan running at high speed will lower voltage quite a bit - but if none of these things are happening, the above readings are pretty close.
For it to be a bad battery/alternator, you will see obviously different "engine off" and starting voltages at the least.
YOu are measuring directly across battery terminals.
I hate how they have removed the voltmeter, oil pressure gauge (and in some vehicles) the temperature gauge.
I have all three on every vehicle I own (Crossfire, Bike and Ranger) and can see trouble coming.
update
I wasn’t able to perform the tests but I emptied my tank as best as possible and filled up at my gas station. I avoided using my AC and radio and nothing happened. I started using my AC last night and all is good for now.
I am noticing my idle when I stand in full and it stands at 1 while if I put the automatic on stop as I would leave the car it stands at 1 and a half. In full it does not do any noise to keep it going and you would not even know the engine is running what is odd, but can’t really say if it was always like this because never paid attention to it.
I will look forward to any signs in the upcoming days, really hoping it was bad fuel.
again many thanks to all of you assisting with your knowledge! I am glad you guys exist! ❤️❤️❤️