Hi All,
just thought I would post an update. I checked out the brake switch - the switch has 6 contacts in two rows of 3. Only one 3 contact connector with 2 wires is connected to it. I unplugged the connector and using 18 gauge wire where I flattened the ends with a hammer, shorted the two contacts on the connector - hooray, the shift lever will now shift out of park when I turn the key to the on position, but still no crank . I took the brake light switch out - it's fairly easy to do once you drop the bottom plastic - there is a clip you press on the side, and then rotate it 90 degrees (don't remember if it was clockwise or CC), and it comes right out. Using my DMM, I figured out how the switch is wired - when the brake pedal is in its neutral position, it presses the plunger on the switch in, opening the circuit. When the plunger is out, brake pedal pushed down, it closes the circuit. The rows are isolated from each other, but the pins in the row short to each other when the plunger moves out. I worked the plunger several time, and it seems to work now, so I reinstalled it - it now I can move the shifter out of park if I have my foot on the brake pedal, so some progress. Next I removed the trim around the shift lever to see if there was any crud on the circuit board - it was dusty, but it didn't look like anything spilled on it. I vacuumed it out with a shop vac, but no joy - still no crank. Next week I'll start looking at systems suggested by Pizzaguy.
Thanks for all the advice,
-Jerry
PS. I installed a new battery, and the pneumatic line under the battery goes to the HVAC blend door (saw that in another post)