Rusty wheel mating surfaces
Why is this important? Because when you're on the side of the road, you want the wheel to come off, don't you? That's why you want to address this problem in your garage, where everything is to your advantage, and not on the roadside, where nothing is to your advantage. I did a very cursory job of this right after I got my car, and then did a pro job of it when I did a brake job. See here: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post968532
The only difference from his video is that I didn't go back and wipe the anti-seize off. So when I first got my car I knew from past experience to check this, and 2 of the 4 wheels required the persuasion of a block of wood (to directly take the blow) and a sledgehammer to remove. I used this drill attachment which I already owned to remove the rust: It's design purpose is to remove stuck gasket material from aluminum or steel without eating into the metal, so it was almost perfect for removing much less dense oxidized iron from the denser "pure-metal" behind, and you don't need a wet surface. I addressed both the wheel & hub mating surfaces as he shows in this video, then sprayed it with brake cleaner so there was a clean surface before applying anti-seize.