HI 1sweetride,
How is your troubleshooting going? I was able to spend some time on my car this weekend. When I perform the steps you do above, my car won't start - no joy. I unplugged all the connectors on the passenger's side interior plate under the glove compartment, TCM, C207 extra, sprayed contact cleaner and wiped all of them before I put them back together. I still have the black square where the shift position indicator should be - that's probably why my car still won't start. I think my next steps are to test the pins on the PCM, figure out how the CAN bus works, and take a part the SLA.
-Jerry


More details: I measured all of the pins on the RCM and pulse module with the ignition key in the on position. I measured that it takes 160mA to activate the relays in the RCM. I pulled down the fuel pump secondary relay coil using a 5 ohm resistor on pin 3E (pin 3, connector 3 on the RCM). This activates the fuel pump relay to apply 12V to pin RCM 3B, fuel pump power, but I didn't hear the fuel pump go. I bled the fuel rail schrader value, connected rcm 3E back to ground, watched the fuel pressure climb, and measured 60psi from the fuel pump. Fuel pump seems to be okay. I put a 5 ohm resistor on pulse module connector A, pin 2 and connected that to ground through a momentary switch. If I close the momentary switch nothing happens, but if a turn the key to start, and close the momentary switch simultaneously, the start motor engages (12V on PM 1B gets connected to PM 1F). Unfortunately, the car still doesn't start.
Couple of other things: to jump the connector pins, I opened the back panel on the connector. To protect the PCM, I pulled the socket out of the connector (RCM 3E or PM 2A). The space between the pin coming out of the RCM side connector and the plastic of the connector plug was very tight, I couldn't squeeze 16 gauge wire in there, but a 1/4 Watt resistor lead worked pretty well. Initially, I tried using a 100 ohm resistor to ground, but that didn't work - the relay didn't close, but it turned out that you need at least 160 mA to activate the relay (the spec sheet for the relay says 120 mA min, you used 70 ohms, so that works why your setup worked - 12V/70 ohm = 171mA ) The momentary switch I used is an old fashion remote start tool that I usually use to jump the relay in my 67 mustang.