Originally Posted by pizzaguy

I reallly think you should go back to my question about the voltage on the fuses of the RCM. I never got from you an exact answer, but fact is: EVERY FUSE ON THE RCM should have power (11 volts or more) on BOTH SIDES of EVERY fuse when the key is ON.

If you don't have that, the car WILL NOT START.

You must measure this voltage with the fuse inserted, you use the little "test pins" on the top of each fuse as I showed in post 20.

I think a wire, somewhere, fractured when you pulled the modules and sent them to Rob. Notice I did NOT say "broke", I said fractured, said wire probably LOOKS fine, but is open under the insulation.
I've seen this before, many times. We know the modules sent in are fine, if this was caused by you pulling things out and putting them back in, then that's my first guess.

You MUST verify power at every RCM fuse as your first step. Once that is verified, I can see chasing grounds or other concerns, but it is human nature to try to turn this into something more complex than it is. We had a car at the Dragon several years ago that would DIE, one of the fuses on the RCM would blow. Change fuse and car would run for some time, then DIE without warning. It all turned out to be a wire that had crept out of it's loom near a sharp piece of metal, it would get hung up and short to ground at certain times. I warned him not to change modules, he didn't, his dad went probing around in the engine compartment and found it some three weeks later.