Originally Posted by
GraphiteGhost
Yes, both bulbs could blow at the same time when a bump of sufficient magnitude on the front end occurs. When a bulb is lit, a lesser vibration could break the fragile filament (especially if 'cheap' bulbs are installed OR an older set of bulbs are nearing their life expectancy). On the flickering of the dome light bulbs, I have experienced that until I made sure the 'tabs' are contacting the metal imbedded into the frame of the dome light. assembly (without being loose). Things do wear out and it seems the 'light metal' socket contacts have been a problem for some members. History shows those types of sockets on the crossfire have given members problems in a few locations of the car. Check the contacts first before moving on to any more expensive parts/wires (time and monies extensive). An old saying, KISS (Keep It Simple Silly). Good luck!
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Well I know where that happened then. Louisiana. Specifically, Shreveport. Worst roads from Tampa to to Texas lol.
I suppose this should be a separate thread, but I thought I might ask it here. The previous owner put in an aftermarket radio, one of the wires I believe for remote amp turn on was shorting and possibly another for 12v.
I replaced all the radio wiring when replacing the radio with a decent one (with actual heat shrink connectors and not just twisted wires & electrical tape) and the speakers now reliably turn on, but the tweeters are no longer working. My guess would be probably either a wiring fault or tweeters are blown. Is there an easy way to test the tweeters with a multimeter without pulling the door off?
I took one off the other day and putting it back on was an absolute pain. Especially for a 6'3" Ogre like me with giant hands.