Hi Kara,
It's been raining in California for the last couple of weeks. Do you have, or did you have water in your foot wells, or in the truck (convertibles have leaks that fill up the pocket that the clp sits in)? With the key in the "on" position, are there any dtc lights showing in the instrument cluster (IC), or is a message scrolling in the IC when you turn the key to on?

I think the symptoms for the common crossfire problems involving no starts or no cranks are:
1) Relay Control Module (RCM) - can be no start, no crank, no fuel to injectors - leaving the key in the on position can result in the radiator fans spinning at warp speed
2) SKREEM - usually, but not always, 3 brief starts and you're out - nothing happens (no crank, no start) until you disconnect the battery to reset the error, then you get 3 more tries.
3) Crankshaft position sensor (CPS) - car will crank but not start. Sometimes if the car cools off, it will start.
4) SLA (shift lever assembly) - spill a drink on the shifter, and the SLA stops talking to the computer. The computer doesn't know what gear the shifter is in, so it won't let the start enable go. (This usually shows a black rectangle in the instrument cluster by the clock when the key is in the "on" position.)
5) bad battery or charging system - anything can happen
6) transmission control module (TCM) - water pours into the passenger foot well due to clogged drains under the cowl - car may not crank or the transmission goes into limp mode depending on how badly corroded the TCM is.
7) Pulse module (PM) - starter won't engage (I don't think this is that common, but it's easy to check)
8) less frequent - CAN Bus fault - usually a broken wire which prevents the modules from communicating with each other

Not to scare you, but there can be a lot of reasons for a no start or no crank. The car does try to tell you what the most likely issue is either through DTC error codes, dash warning lights or behavior.
-Jerry