Loss of Sync
I mentioned "a loss of sync" above, when discussing the BCM's operation of the spoiler. But there is a much more important "loss of sync" that happens, and it happens a LOT.
Consider the complexities of the top system: the system of hydraulic cylinders, the sensors on those cylinders (which we have not even mentioned), combined with the switches/sensors we HAVE mentioned - along with the interactions with the BCM. All of this comprises a very complex system. In some cases, the PTCM can loose track of where in the process it is; in such cases, if the PTCM continues to command cylinders to travel without knowing for sure where things are, damage can be done to parts of the car.
This is why our tops so often will suddenly refuse to move. The PTCM has lost track of things and is 'afraid' to move ANYTHING. At this point, it sucks to be you or I. This is why it is VERY important to know how to put the top up and down manually. It is also important that we all have our 'top tool' in the glove box or console. If that tool is the original one that came with the car, we must also have a 6mm hex key wrench. With these tools and some knowledge, we can put the top up or down manually.
But what do we do about a loss of sync? And what do we do when the top starts moving, then DEAD stops and won't let us do anything? Let's answer these questions in reverse order.
Releasing Pressure and Moving the Top Manually
If the top stops dead, you must release pressure and then move it manually. The owner's manual tells you how to press the top button to make pressure release, but I have had problems making that technique work. I have my own trick - I pull the PTCM fuse. This works because the 'relaxed state' of all the relays is to open and let all pressure out, and fluid flows back to the tank.
The fuse in most Crossfires is fuse 5 in the underhood box. It will be labeled "Roof Control Unit" and will be a 25 amp fuse (52 amp if you are looking at it upside down!)
I have it circled in yellow below, and again, I THINK they left this in position 5 for the entire production run, I just don't know that for sure.
I posted a youtube video on how to put the top up and down manually, it is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnd2y89ITf8&
But Klaus at "TopHydraulics" produced a better one (I have not watched it all, but I know the guy and I'm sure he did better than I did):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOCoOi-1Eps
How Do We Get "SYNC" Back?
Once you put the top up or down manually, you may find the switch now works and things are fine. If not, you may need to "teach" the system where things are. I've had to do this a few times in the eleven years I've owned three roasters. The procedure that works for me is simple.
1) Start the engine.
2) If you have not released pressure (that is, if things refuse to move when you try to move the top parts), pull fuse 25 for a few seconds.
THEN, be sure to put it back in before proceeding.
3) Manually raise or lower (depending on what position the top is currently in) completely, including locking the bow with the hex key (that both I and Klaus talk about).
4) Now, if you raised it, lower it completely. If you lowered it, raise it completely.
Once you are done, try the button. If it still won't work, with the engine running, do 3) and 4) maybe a total of two or three complete cycles. It is important to have the system "awake", that is why you have the engine running, so the PTCM is powered up and watching what you are doing. I've had at least four or five times in eleven years where the top won't work, or it stops mid-cycle - every time, this got me going. Others have reported similar results, including one guy that had paid a dealer to "diagnose" the system, he got the car back with the top not working still. This technique got it going.