I'm not ready to give up just yet. I had an ah-ha moment. Finally. I also sent an email to the company pleading for help. But I figured out something in my CANBUS research. Each bus is terminated by 120 ohm resistors at each end which means it is linear and should test @ 60 ohms up and down the CAN lines, which was one of my big questions: is its position on the bus crucial? With this module it actually is. The CAN could split off somewhere between each node, but still feed into the main linear line. There are two busses, one high speed (C) for time crucial systems, one low speed(B) for everything else and they are joined by a central bridge of sorts that translates and exchanges bits of data between them. That bridge is the instrument panel. That marks the front and rear ends of each bus. I also learned the black box I was sent is perfectly terminated with 120.5 ohms just like the SKREEM was, which was one end node of C, between the green and white wires. The only place it can go is at the end of the bus to terminate the node, otherwise any devices it skips get assed out of the CAN, but if placed correctly, I should get half the resistance (60 ohm) when tested up and down the C-can high and low and universe permitting, the sweet sound of engine turnover and the satisfaction/releif of it staying lit. So the connector on the back of the instrument panel is really the only place I can tap the CAN. This thing may actually still work. But I will wait for a reply from the place I got it, if I am wrong. Like I said, I really don't want to believe this is a BS box by how reputable they are across the different forums and we just have a problem with opposing schedules. Say a prayer, cross your fingers, send good vibes, sacrifice a chicken, whatever it is you do so that the universe's energy works with me today rather than against me. And if it fires, I'm going to take myself to see BuckCherry on fremont street tonight to celebrate my victory over the machine (free fifty, the best price) since hubs will be gone.

I should also note that the measurements of the box were a little small that I gave. For all I know, it could contain the all of or portions of the guts from the skreem as it's more like 1.25"x2.5"x3.5" and if this starts, I don't give a hoot. Just a w00t! for the life of my car being restored from sexy, useless lawn ornament status, and I will personally apologize in epic profusion, even grovel for losing my s*** to the company that built this box, as it is highly likely this is what the computer support world used to call a PEBKAC error: problem exists between keyboard and chair except in this case it's between the wrench and and my chuck taylors.

Also, I may need to exchange this remote kit for a different one that uses electronic locks vs. the existing pneumatic pump ones. Also, no big deal since I won't likely be using the cylinder from the ignition switch anyhow. I have some household chores to do today during the blazing hours of sun and my Irish paleness cannot handle existing outdoors too long being this close to the sun mid spring through mid fall, but a little later, I will test my final theory and then wait for reply to my email if I fail. I am not allowing my hopes to get too high, but have a good feeling about this. *crosses every crossable appendage* It may even be too much anticipation for me to wait out the sun... I'm actually pretty sure of that. lol But plumbing first.