Onehundred80: Yes, I signed a repair estimate when I dropped off the car and the monetary figure at the bottom stated I would be looking at an estimated $360.XX for repairs. I believe that if I instruct them to not install them on the car, they have to comply with my request. They are supposed to be repairing a leaking head gasket and broken CD player, of which are both being covered under an extended warranty minus my $200 deductible.

 

If you did not sign an approval for the sensors and have not paid for them, the dealer should not be entitled to any recovery. He may huff and puff but without a written authorization he has little recourse.

That said, where there is a will, there is a lawyer & dealer may be looking to you for his next boat payment.

If there is a hairline crack in the CC you should be able to detect/hear the gasses escaping & detect with a tailpipe sniffer.

Also I would consider an exhaust leak to be a safety issue.

That is an absurd price for O2 sensors. Just for S&G see here.

 

Hello Padgett: I just went to the dealer and the repair rep checked with the parts guy and said that I have to pay $342 restocking fee for the two sensors at $544 each. They claim that they are special order and when you order them, you bought them. What a crock of XXXX. The repair rep tried to brow beat me into having the parts installed anyway, but I told him to send them back and fix the leaking head gasket and radio. He gave me the Chrysler codes - claims there are two codes - P0155 and P0157 (Bank 2 left side front and rear 02 sensors). I originally only had one code (generic P02098) from my code reader, Autozone and the ASE certified repair shop. My exhaust does not smell like rotten eggs (sulphur), more like an industrial cleaning agent/detergent smell. I will buy the RockAuto Bosch and install them myself. I can disconnect a connector, borrow an O2 socket, turn a wrench and etc. I have read that you need to make sure you put the connector on properly and not mix them up. This should be straightforward, since I am replacing the front and rear left side (Bank 2). I would hope that they are keyed where you could only put them on one particular way.

 

Also, I will be using OEM quality connector and not the univeral connector 02 sensors. I don't want any crimping and splicing thank you...

 

Why not just remove the CCs? Here in SC it is illegal to remove the CC...however, I know numerous people who have, and have not been "caught " yet...It seems, to me, that the cost of these parts overrides the risk of detection... plus you get better overall performance and a much better sound...Carl

In making the decision to remove, one would have to consider their level of responsibility in regard to being "green"...

 

May be time you consult a lawyer who knows the local laws but if it were me I would remove the car from the dealer as soon as possible and pay what you owe him in cash (not a credit or debit card) making sure it says "paid in full" on the receipt.

Something does not sound entirely right to me. P0155 is a legitimate code: P0155 - O2 SENSOR 2/1 HEATER CIRCUIT

but P0157 does not appear in either the 2005 or the 2007 FSM, It is in a 2012 Jeep FSM: P0157-O2 SENSOR 2/2 CIRCUIT LOW - did you see that as a printout or was it handwritten or verbal ?

Personally I would not remove the CCs, instead I would shop for a good set of headpipes with CCs and sensors from a wreck or check with carparts.com

But the first thing I would do is to get the car back from the dealer as quickly as possible.

If he forces you to pay the restocking fee to get the car back, I would circle the amounts on all copies and write "in dispute" or something similar before paying (again best to consult a local lawyer first).

ps a O2 sensor just needs to stick in the exhaust stream, it screws in just like a spark plug and should be about as tight. The connector does appear to be keyed so it will only snap together one way.

I do agree about not using crimped connections, they are less than a volt and a resistive connection would foul up the readings (should be right on .5v cold and with the engine off)

 

Carl - the state of WA has mandatory emission checks every two years, so removing the catalytic converter is not an option.

Padgett - I have been advised to pay the $342 restocking fee and dispute that amount with the credit card company and then turn in a complaint to the Washington State Attorney General's office bureau of automotive repair. I can do math, they are charging almost 33% to restocki those parts. Let us remember that these are O2 sensors and not engine blocks. How much friggin space are they taking up at the dealership anyway? I am also going complain to the better business bureau, which this dealer is a member and ALSO put VERY NEGATIVE reviews on all sites that this A-HOLE dealership does business within. Not surprisingly, they have a very low approval rating on Yelp, Yellowpages.com, Localbussiness.com and there are 15 complaints listed in the BBB records. 3 complaints were settled as "unsatisfactory" according to the website and 10 were settled. Two complaints are still pending.

This dealer has had my Crossfire since January 5, 2014. Yesterday he told me the sensors would be there today, but I told him not to install, so there is really no reason they can't fix my other problems since they told me they got the Engine Head Gasket on 1/8/14 and the radio was sent out to be repaired and returned to them on Friday 1/10/14. Again, this is what he told me. Could he be lying???

I bought two Bosch O2 sensors with OEM connectors for $128.50 total from RockAuto. They shipped this morning and I should have them soon. Wow, now I just need the dealer to refund the BOGUS restocking fee and fix my leaking valve covers (both sides of engine) and CD player.

 

Sounds like you have good legal advice but if it were mine I'd recover the car immediately regardless of what has or has not been done even if I had to pay to have it towed.

DO NOT call names, be very formal and use exact language in any dealing, now that you are in dispute you need to stay squeaky clean in everything. It is even possible the dealer will try to bait you so always have a companion/witness when you meet with him.

I have heard that Washington state is consumer friendly, let's hope so. Most restocking charges I've seen are 20% and have a maximum, were you informed of it in advance ?

 

Padgett (and Crossfire owners):

I got the car back tonight. The severely 'money-grubbing' Chrysler Dealership charged me a $343 dollar "restock fee" to send the 2 sensors back to the Detroit warehouse. When I asked, he could not produce anything in writing pertaining to a "RESTOCKING FEE", just mention it verbally. He didn't even clarify if it was based on a certain percentage or value. I told him that they are charging 31.43% of the cost of the sensors and he said (verbally) that is what Chrysler is entitled to if you cancel a special part order with them. Most places charge 20% maximum. Wow, what arrogance and greed they are coming from! This dealership is a legend in there own minds as far as their financial clout! I will dispute the charge with my credit card company, the Washington State Attorney General's Bureau of Automotive Repair and the local Washington State Better Business Bureau... I wrote down on the credit card receipt ($343 in dispute) on both the original and my copies.

I took your advice and took a co-worker and she heard the whole load of B.S. from the service representative. She witnessed me sign the receipt also and dispute the charge.

Talk about dishonest a-holes. To add insult to injur - They have different codes on the final receipt. Now the codes are P0137 Bank 2/2 and P0153 2/1 O2 long delay. Autozone, the first repair shop (ASE certified) and my expensive code reader all provided generic code P2098 - Downstream Fuel System 2 Lean. I never saw a code for the Upstream Fuel System 2 for ANYTHING and neither did anyone else. Is Chrysler's code reader that much more special? It's probably the same tool to diagnose their other flipping vehicles. Me thinks this dealership dishonest.

They put in writing on the repair estimate/receipt that, "No cracks in Catalytic Converter found", but how hard did they look. Hmmm.

My extended warranty is expired now upon leaving the dealership (70,001), but the catalytic converter is still covered until October 24, 2014 or 80,000 miles. At least I still have this going in my favor!!! When I get the Bosch sensors from RockAuto, they will be installed ASAP.

I hope they repaired everthing they claimed that they did and that I can get full or partial recovery of the outrageous restocking fee. Chrysler Dealerships truly suck!

 

Hi,
At 90,000 miles my driver side front cat cracked apart and I could hear the exhaust leaking. I also got the sensor codes. The cat was removed and welded back up. The exhaust leak and the codes went away. So far at 122,000 miles no more problems.

 

Just two things:

1) Not all dealerships are bad (and I would register a complaint with Chrysler Cares ) I have had very good luck with Central Florida Chrysler Jeep (plug). Hopefully you have another one close by. They do hope to sell me another Jeep so are always polite (turns out they processed the Crossfire when it was new also).

2) Since you are now hoping for recourse from the legal system you need to turn all emotions off and be completely factual in all statements. Name-calling may feel good for the moment but it will hurt you in the long run. Keep copious records of exactly what was said, when, and by whom.

Just an opinion but for a repair of over $1000 I suspect the dealer should have gotten your written approval before proceeding. If not I would research exactly what Washington state laws are on that subject. Would help to also study who was successful in the past with this sort of thing and what the legal opinion was (a good lawyer would be trained and have experience in doing this).

Also never underestimate the power of the press but do not go to a paper or other media where that dealer advertises. If you do, just state the facts and not your opinion unless asked.

ps see here and here.

 

Paul - Sounds like you missed the warranty by 10,000 miles. Glad to hear you got it repaired/welded and no problems since. In my case, the cat is still under warranty and I would make chrysler replace it rather than attempt to repair it.

Padgett - I have been calm and professional with the service representative from the beginning. When I questioned things, he either didn't have the information or told me they would find out. Name calling has never been a part of this process. My witness thought that they were deceiptful and arrogant when they refused to tell me how and why Dwayne Lane Chrysler was "entitled" to $343.00. Bottom line is that I have to dispute the $343.00 dollar restock fee on two overpriced Mopar oxygen sensors at total cost of $1088. I still am in disbelief about how he told me the wrong codes up front and now there are different codes on my final repair invoice receipt. Glad you found a good dealer in Florida. When I lived in Apopka, I had services done to my Chevrolet Blazer and Geo Prizm at a local Chevy dealership and never had any problems with that dealership whatsoever. When they fixed something, it stayed fixed. Warranty repairs on the Blazer and new timing belt, waterpump and thermostat on the Geo Prizm. The Prizm (Toyota Corolla) was a great car. I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced at 110,000 miles just as a preventative maintenance measure. Kept the car until 127,000 and sold it right before I moved to the West Coast... I sincerely hope that the Crossfire will last at least that long, if not more...

 

Just looked in the FSM and neither P0137 (generic O2 & cites all 4) nor P0153 (2/1) refer specifically to the 2/2 (2nd bank, rear) sensor. Both together would point to the front sensor & could be caused by an exhaust leak.

Take a look at the 2005 FSM (online) pages 9-161 and 9-195.

Personally I'd pull both front sensors, check for clogging, then reinstall in opposite sides and see if the error follows the sensor (153 becomes a 133) but that is me and not in the FSM.

 

Update - When I removed the Bank 2 Sensors (both pre and post cat converter), there is a Mercedes Benz insignia and part number and also a BOSCH insignia on the bottom of the part that matches the BOSCH insignia of my replacement BOSCH sensors. I now have positive proof that my Mercedes Benz original equipment O2 sensors were made by BOSCH. My Chrysler dealer sucks!!! They told me not to install Bosch, put on the Mopar parts being ordered from Detroit. Also, they gave me the wrong codes on my final repair estimate. I replaced the sensors that they indicated, but the same DTC code continues to come up even after resetting with a code reader and disconnecting the negative battery terminal while the sensors were being replaced. I bought two new O2 sensors from RockAuto.com and will soon have all "New" O2 sensors in both Bank 1 and Bank 2. RockAuto.com sells the OEM Boschs for 60.99 both front sensors and 63.99 / 85.99 for the rear ones. Much better prices than Autozone, NAPA and O'Reilly's...
I also installed a new fog lamp assembly, since my previous one had a shattered glass lens and a burnt out bulb due to rain and fog getting into the assembly. Had to remove front wheel and crank steering wheel hard to get rotor out of the way, once that was done you have to get a torx (star) head socket and remove 3 fasteners holding the assembly to the front fascia from the wheel well maintenance hatch. A couple of forum members suggested taking the wheel fender skirt loose and peel it back, but I was able to get to the fog lamp assembly without too much problem. It took about an hour from start to finish. I saved $75 from having the Chrylser dealer "wallet rapist" performing the task. Also, I bought the fog lamp assembly from Factorymoparpartsonline.com and saved $90 on the fog lamp assembly. Chrysler wants $287.00. Greedy, greedy, greedy... But, the fog lamp assembly does have a pedigree from Deutschland (Germany). They must fly the parts over here on Lufthansa - first class!!!