As the title says, I purchased this OEM Key Fob from a locksmith. They said someone had ordered it but never came to pick it up. My luck I guess or “maybe we’ll see”. Anyways, the key was never cut and they said that it wasn’t programmed to any specific car. So I assume it was never programmed to another car? When I picked the key up I had them cut it to the specs of my key. I took it home tried to do the program that’s been talked about on here many time to lock/ unlock the car but can’t get it to work. There was another procedure that I used where you cycle the key three times. Meaning off to run “not start” 3 times and then on the 3rd time leave the key in the ignition for 5 minutes and then pull the new key out then put the old key in start it and then immediately turn it off and insert the new key and presto the car started with the new key. I drove around the block and figured ok it programmed the key to the car. Well, not so fast. When I got back home I took the key out and then tried to start it again and nothing. It turned on for a second and then just died for lack of a better word. Mind you it still starts with the original key. I repeated the steps again mentioned previously in the post and low and behold it started up again with the spare key drove the car 60 miles around the city. Figured maybe it would sync up “better” but it did the same thing as before. Also it still won’t lock/ unlock the doors with the buttons either. It will I lock with the actual key though. Ok long winded I know. Ok now so every time I start the car with my original key and then immediately pull it out and put in the new spare it’ll start the car and I can drive it around no problem. The spare though will never start the car without the previous procedure done first. My question is and I know it’s been talked about many times, but I have not really heard of this specific thing. Can this key be programmed by Chrysler? There’s only one Chrysler dealership here in OKC that still has the Crossfire/Mercedes software to “program” it. All dealerships have been clueless as hell when talking about the Crossfire. And yes I know all about the dealerships and their BS. But I can’t get the new FOB to lock or unlock with the procedure that’s been talked about on the forum. I know there’s a lot to digest here, but any help would beneficial. Thanks guys in advance. Here’s pics of the new FOB as it is a genuine Chrysler key. I did pull it apart to make sure there was a transponder chip also just to make sure.

 

Thanks for the info. It looks like your partway there. You have an OEM Key FOB from the looks of things. I would go to the dealership and show them the key. If they will guarantee the programming will work, just get a quote. You know the cutting works. My local Chrysler dealership has quoted me $270 for a new key with programming to my VIN and guaranteed to work or no charge. The local Chrysler dealership has been helpful to me with some parts need. I am doing my own service/repair work on the car from the help/input from the forum. So if you can get it programmed for $100-$150, I would consider it a deal I was lucky enough to get a blank key fob from another forum member. I am going to transplant the guts from my cosmetically broken FOB and hopefully that will work. If I do it the transplant without destroying the innards, great. If not I will take them up on the $270 offer for a new FOB. I want 2 fully working keys. Note I am in Canada with a USA VIN# car, because I imported the car from Arizona.. There has been some discussion on the forum about this "US Canada issue" but my dealership is having no issues at all with it.

 

Keep us posted>

 

I thought it was already established here that these keys are VIN coded. I wasted about $120 trying to get it done at a dealership. They failed after two hours of trying..

If you're getting the new key to work after starting it with the OEM key I would think the RFID from the original key is still within range of the antenna. Your new key probably isn't interfering via the skreem module because it hasn't been coded to any vehicle; but as long as the OEM RFID is within antenna range - any key that fits the ignition will work. For instance, if you have both keys on one ring or in your hand, the new key will appear to work because the skreem is seeing the OEM key's RFID.

 

If it’s never been VIN coded to any vehicle. What procedure if any can be done to work with my car? All of the Key Fob and SKREEM conversation on the forum has me so confused I don’t know where to start. Is the reason for the FOB not locking or unlocking the car caused by the same VIN coded reason? Thanks again in advance.

 

NO... ANY FOB (that works with fresh batteries) will program and work opening the doors and related (hatch and such). This gives that the air pump in the lower hatch (right side under the foam inserts in USA models that I know of) is working right. They (the FOB) buttons only can be coded for these (lock, unlock, and alarm). If you have any other FOB (from another car) and it is in working condition, it'll do those functions ONLY. The starting can only be done IF that little chip (inside the FOB) is coded for the specific module in the VIN coded car for which it is coded for. You can buy more than two FOB's to open your doors and such, but you have to have a VIN coded chip in the FOB (a separate part internal to each FOB) to start a certain like coded crossfire. It is complicated (as you can see reading all the FOB/SKREEM posts). No matter what ppl say or offer in any forum, auction, post, or chitchat (until someone either bypasses the SKREEM or finds a less expensive way to CODE a FOB for the SKREEM pass-through), you'll only use a used FOB that is working, to open your doors/hatch/alarm (given the pump/associated systems are working).


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That’s one of the problems, is that it doesn’t lock or unlock doors, hatch etc. I’ve done as the forum has instructed for that procedure and it still won’t perform the normal keyfob functions. Am I missing something else? With this new key fob not being VIN coded to any specific car ever is it pretty much useless?

 

Try the procedure in the attached document (Page 8N-35 in 2005 Crossfire Service Manual). Somewhat different than what you've attempted thus far. Let us know if this fixes your issue with the new key.

Later,

 

Pardon me for interjecting. I bought a used key and tried, using the method in the PDF. It didn't work for the locks and the reason I believe it didn't is because as soon as the key was turned to the ON position the SKREEM did not detect the correct signal from the RFID. I'm only guessing at this point but I believe it doesn't matter whether you have an RFID coded to a different SKREEM or and RFID coded to nothing, the SKREEM is not going to authorize a new slot (of the 8) to be initialized.

 

I tried said procedure and nothing. So not sure where to go from here?

As Crossfire owners, where should our frustrations be aimed at as far as the key, and SKREEM fiascos? I see that SLK R170 owners can still get keys without taking out a second mortgage. Even though I got my key for a steal, obviously that’s moot at this point as I can’t even use it to lock or unlock the car, and can’t be programmed to start the car.

I’ve seen on here where someone had the RFID chip mounted somewhere in the ignition. I’m guessing that was for being able to use any key that was cut for the car to start the car? Not sure. I’ve read so much about all of this, my head is Beetlejuice spinning right now. A little Halloween humor on this day

 

I would think that if you do remove that little black chip from the keyfob and fasten it within the range of the antenna you could probably get the new key fob to work with your locks using the method in the PDF. For instance, when I was trying to get my used key to be programmed to the car, I double back taped my old working key fob with the blade retracted to the "new" but empty fob with the correctly cut blade inserted in the ignition. The car would start every time. If that little RFID ever gets dislodged and lost, you are screwed! I feel that I have investigated this situation thoroughly and came to the conclusion that I have ONE good key and may never have another. I am VERY careful with it because it is literally worth what I paid for the car itself. I told an old experienced locksmith my concern that my only key fob would die, he shook his head and said - "they don't just die". I hope he is right.. I will say this, if you find a way to activate that new key you will gain near hero status. The equipment to do it is expensive and the knowledge to do it is elusive.

 

I second that suggestion. Buy a used SKREEM antenna ring and plug that into the SKREEM. Remove the security chip from the key and fasten it to the ring. put it in a small box and place it behind the dash cluster. You can then buy as many spare keys as you want.

 

I like the way you think!
Since I have an old empty key fob with the disintegrated panic button, I'm thinking to put the RFID back in that and fastening it inside the dash..

 

The RFID chip does not need to be in a fob, it is fine taped by the antenna ring just by itself.

 

It easy to lose that chip so it is safer in the fob.

 

There can only be one secret code shared between the SKREEM and any keys for the car. No dealership is able to load/program that code into the security chip in the new key. Once a key chip is programmed it cannot be changed. That is why used "Crossfire" keys can never be programmed for another car.

Many smart people on the forum have tried aftermarket key "security chip" programmers and so far have not been able to successfully do so.

Mercedes has the equipment to program the key security chips, and whatever the dispute is between Chrysler and Mercedes is what is holding up new Key and SKREEM replacements.

 

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It is called proprietary information. I call it a bunch of kids fighting in the back yard of industry!


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Since mine was never programmed to any car, and was brand new and not a used one, does the same apply as it can never be programmed to my car?
Or at least until or if ever a workaround is discovered?
I still don’t understand though why it won’t at least lock/unlock the car..
Thanks again for the information fellas.

 

The lock/unlock uses a rolling code I believe and this may be the stumbling block in your case.

 

Without taking too much of your time, what does that mean? Thanks in advance