Drywallers/Construction workers knowledge needed
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Really anybody who has experience would be great.
I looked at DensArmor paperless fiberglass mat drywall or just called yellow board at a Lowes; I've never noticed it until I needed to redo a bathroom. According to GP's website, this is an alternative to green board.
Besides the mold and water resistant claims, what are your experiences with it? I know they sell their own joint compound for "added mold protection", but I've still got a lot of regular compound; does it matter?
Any advice or experiences you care to pass along?
I looked at DensArmor paperless fiberglass mat drywall or just called yellow board at a Lowes; I've never noticed it until I needed to redo a bathroom. According to GP's website, this is an alternative to green board.
Besides the mold and water resistant claims, what are your experiences with it? I know they sell their own joint compound for "added mold protection", but I've still got a lot of regular compound; does it matter?
Any advice or experiences you care to pass along?
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I remodeled the master bath in my last house and used the paperless drywall - the only difference I noticed was that it seemed a little heavier than the normal stuff. I used standard drywall screws and fiberglass mesh tape for the joints, but I used the recommended mildew-resistant joint compound - I figured better safe than sorry...this was in upstate New York where it is very humid much of the time. That compound was HEAVY - not sure why.
The paperless drywall cut, went up and finished just like the standard stuff. The finished side of the drywall appeared a little rougher right after I put it up, but it was fine after painting.
In case you weren't aware, you should use cement board behind the tub/shower areas to 6 feet high just in case you get water infiltration; the paperless stuff only protects against humidity. I found some at Lowe's that had little styrofoam ***** mixed in with the cement. It made the cement sheets lighter and easier to cut and handle.
Hope this helps...
The paperless drywall cut, went up and finished just like the standard stuff. The finished side of the drywall appeared a little rougher right after I put it up, but it was fine after painting.
In case you weren't aware, you should use cement board behind the tub/shower areas to 6 feet high just in case you get water infiltration; the paperless stuff only protects against humidity. I found some at Lowe's that had little styrofoam ***** mixed in with the cement. It made the cement sheets lighter and easier to cut and handle.
Hope this helps...
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Originally Posted by OKC-XFR
I remodeled the master bath in my last house and used the paperless drywall - the only difference I noticed was that it seemed a little heavier than the normal stuff. I used standard drywall screws and fiberglass mesh tape for the joints, but I used the recommended mildew-resistant joint compound - I figured better safe than sorry...this was in upstate New York where it is very humid much of the time. That compound was HEAVY - not sure why.
The paperless drywall cut, went up and finished just like the standard stuff. The finished side of the drywall appeared a little rougher right after I put it up, but it was fine after painting.
In case you weren't aware, you should use cement board behind the tub/shower areas to 6 feet high just in case you get water infiltration; the paperless stuff only protects against humidity. I found some at Lowe's that had little styrofoam ***** mixed in with the cement. It made the cement sheets lighter and easier to cut and handle.
Hope this helps...
The paperless drywall cut, went up and finished just like the standard stuff. The finished side of the drywall appeared a little rougher right after I put it up, but it was fine after painting.
In case you weren't aware, you should use cement board behind the tub/shower areas to 6 feet high just in case you get water infiltration; the paperless stuff only protects against humidity. I found some at Lowe's that had little styrofoam ***** mixed in with the cement. It made the cement sheets lighter and easier to cut and handle.
Hope this helps...
This is part of the difference between a 5 year and a 25 year bathroom.
Also, look into a product called "DITRA". It is a waterproffing system for wet areas and is worth the money.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
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Originally Posted by maxcichon
I agree with all said, except use Durock anyhere direct exposure to water is even a possibility. In a tub/shower area, that means the ceiling too. The only pain is that using Durock, one MUST use thinset mortar for the joint compound to make a waterproof barrier.
This is part of the difference between a 5 year and a 25 year bathroom.
Also, look into a product called "DITRA". It is a waterproffing system for wet areas and is worth the money.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
This is part of the difference between a 5 year and a 25 year bathroom.
Also, look into a product called "DITRA". It is a waterproffing system for wet areas and is worth the money.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
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I have always seen Densglas used in comercial applications usually outside used as a base for efis or drivet(stucco). If you use it on an interior and any of it gets painted I would imagine it would be a little rough due to the fiberglas layer unless you skim coat it first.
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