So I've been looking at this 05 SRT-6 for a few days now, and I go to look/test drive tomorrow. I was recently going to find a limited one, without the s/c but this is right around the block.

I was wondering what I should check for while test driving and inspecting it. It does have 90k miles on it. In beautiful condition via photos. They said it was currently being serviced by a Chrysler dealership today, so I couldn't go see it today. Sadly, they didn't tell me why.

Anyway, all comments are greatly appreciated!

 

Well, Joe I could tell you to read away at all the posts on here, and even a thread that explains what to look for, but you need an answer, so here goes. Appearance is what I 1st look at. Has it been taken care of, garaged, waxed, no dings, dents, faded scratched paint. If they are finicky on the outside, they usually are the same with the drive train... Seat heaters, make sure the heat the seat as well as the back. Cup holders sucks, so if it works you are lucky. Look at tire wear, and open the hood, and see how clean or unclean the engine compartment is. The 1st thing to go in the SRT6 mechanically that will cause a power problem is the inner cooler pump. With those miles, it should have been replaced at least once by now. But that could be the reason for the last minute service. It is a power robber. People have sold their SRT's for this reason, and it is a less than $150 fix....lol... Good luck. I know others will chime in...you will love the car if the above looks good...

 

Thank you so much for your response! Here are a few photos of the car. In the pictures, dings and dents are not visible, but when I go to inspect the car myself, I will be able to see the car better.

 

The car looks great...except those aren't the original SRT6 wheels. Those are off a limited crossfire....some like them better, but I like to keep things original... I have one just like it, as well as a blk roadster.. Looks like a good one, can I ask what they are asking...

 

Yes, they're off the limited, I also noticed that. They're asking 9,900, and I am going to ask for an extended warranty(Come with a limited). And of course, I need to know why it was in the shop.

 

At 9900 if it starts, I'd buy it...seriously....miles or no miles....lol.... Nice find... Since you had all that weather out there, check the trunk area under the mat for moisture. It can play havoc with some electronics that are under there....get down in the valleys and look deep...it is due to the spoiler leaking where it bolts to the car...

 

Thank you! I am very excited! I was also looking at a Legacy Gt, which was very nice. The interior beats the Crossfire, hands down. But the Crossfire is my favorite car, ever. It has been my background on my phone/computer for about a year now. Cannot wait to test drive it.

 

Well good luck...if I were closer to Jersey...I would buy it for sure....lol...

 

Good thing your not! I cannot wait to throw my garbage Mazda into the ocean and make a corral wreath! Nothing but problems.

 

I saw that SRT on ebay. Looks like a very good deal to me. I don't believe the carfax is listed on ebay, but I found it online if you haven't seen it.

CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2005 CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE SRT-6

 

ouch....-360 below retail book.... That is all our cars are worth now...lol.... Thanks Anthony.,.... I feel much better now.,....lol

 

Yes, I got them when I went in today. Thank you for posting them up though!

 

Dayuummm that's cheap!!! Where's that inheritance money when I need it? Aero Blue is my 2nd favorite SRT color, right after the mythical '06 Machine Grey. What I would give for a Machine Grey SRT-6 Roadster!!!!!!! Although a Graphite Grey SRT Roadster would do as well, to match the Coupe. Back on topic, be sure to have them check the fuel pump/filter hoses if they can. Mine recently went kaput, leaving over an 1/8th of a tank on the carport. Found out I wasn't the only one that had this problem. Good luck on your purchase, and get ready to enjoy yourself more than you may have anticipated!

 

The motors worth what they're asking for the car.

 

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

 

I bought mine in April of 2012 with 85K on the clock for the same price. I felt like I stole it! Doc pretty much mentioned what I would check but here is what I found after I bought it.

The S/C worked great on the test drive, then not so great after I got it home. It was the I/C pump - $100 and an hour of my labor - S/C has been solid.

When you test drive it, watch the shifter when you put your foot in it. If it pulls forward, your left engine mount is shot. I had a dealer repair that one to the tune of $800. Luckily I bought a drive train warranty that covered the replacement. And, even though it wasn't bad, the dealer replaced the right mount while they were there.

Since it has 90K on the clock, I would press them to change the tranny fluid. Should be done at 80K. My tranny started slipping after about a week of owning it. That one WASN'T covered by the warranty because it is general maintenance. That ran me about $450 at the dealer.

Look for an "oil can" indicator on the right side of the dash indicator lights. Mine flickers between on and off all the time, but I am pretty sure it is a bad sensor since the oil level is solid. You have to remove the oil pan to get to the sensor (it monitors oil level and pressure if I remember correctly). The sensor is about $200-ish and kind of a pain to DIY unless you are pretty handy (which I am not).

If it wants to follow the ruts in the road, no biggie - it's a $20 dollar steering stabilizer that takes 15 minutes to swap. Could be a way to beat them down on the price, though, if needed.

Make sure they did an oil change with the proper synthetic oil unless you plan to do one after you get it. It wouldn't surprise me if the $8.00 an hour oil monkey's at the dealer didn't pay attention to the "Mobil 1" sticker in the engine bay and put standard oil in it if they changed it.

Just some things that caught me off guard by not knowing enough about the car when I bought it. Unfortunately, I didn't find this forum until AFTER I bought the car - but I sure as heck am happy I found them both!! ( the car and the forum)

Good luck and congrats!!

RL

 

Alright, so when I push the gas down to give it more power, if the shifter moves more towards neutral the motor mounts are bad? Also, thank you for your response!

 

Exactly! It will most likely be the left motor mount as it sees the most of the abuse. If you see the shifter pull forward (or feel it if you have your hand on it while watching the road), you can do a more in depth check of that engine mount by doing the following. You can also do this before the test drive if you want to - but it was the shifter pulling forward when I was driving "spiritedly" that clued me into there being a problem:

Park the car in an clear area in case it jumps forward while doing this.

Car in park, e-brake set, hood up, engine running.

Press and hold the brake and shift to drive.

While peering under the hood (or have someone watching at the SIDE of the car - not in front), gently start to give it some gas. Be sure to keep the brake pressed.

As you give it more gas (but not enough to spin the tires), you will eventually see the left side of the engine "jump" when it torques. It will hold in that "up" position as long as you have it under torque.

If it "jumps", that left mount is shot.

Mine looked like it jumped about 4 inches - scared the heck out of me when it did it. I thought the engine was going to twist out of the car, but it will be fine. Just do it slowly.

Also, if it jumps, that means when you are getting on it, the engine is probably smacking the underside of the hood - not good.

Keep us posted!

RL

 

Yes, thank you. My Mazda needs new motor mounts, you should see how bad it is... But hopefully after signing some papers and checking every square inch, I will no longer own it.

 

Dealer said they'd have the car till middle of next week. Beginning to think the car is too good to be true.