Well, what should have been an easy job just got bad. I've read all the info and watched all the videos on installing a new connector but failed to see anywhere what an absolute b**ch re-seating that connector would be. Wrestled with it for hours (and yes, I lubed the rings with tranny fluid over and over) before I finally got that little bolt to start grabbing. Well stupid me, I thought that slowly tightening it would completely seat the adaptor. Well, 1 turn too many and the bolt snapped. Looks like I get to drop the valve body now.

My question is this. Do I try to save the conductor plate by removing the broke bolt or do I just replace it while I've got it out? Other than the leaking fluid from the adapter plug, the transmission was doing fine. Anything else I should be doing while I got this apart?

It's on 2004 with 88K. Thanks guys. Time to drink and forget about what just happened.

 

Photos please, I have snapped more parts and bolts than most others and fixed them all. First one was a 56 vett water pump support bracket, got it out and fixed it, photos, Woody ENJOY

 

I haven't taken apart the conductor plate to show you where the bolt is but here's the clean break it made to the connector.

 

Change the conductor plate, filter and fluid, you are good for another 100,000 + miles.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...on-service-kit

 

Thanks for the link. The more I read about it the more it seems like a no-brainer to replace conductor plate while it's apart.

 

I believe it is a brass screw and a dremel tool would be able to bore out the center and use an easy out it you wanted to go that route. Time being what it would cost if your interested. Woody

 

Yup, it does. I had a problem last year, replaced the connector, (had it done, I'm OLD) It did not correct the limp home problem. Had the conductor plate changed. Car now runs and acts fine. DO IT.
Bill T.

 

Just an update for anyone who might need this question answered in the future...
if this ever happens to anyone, you have 1 of 2 choices.
1) Drop the transmission valve body and replace the conductor plate
2) Drop the transmission valve body and retrieve the snapped screw

I chose to replace the conductor plate because the car is new to me and it has 88k on the clock (and after seeing the mess I made, I never want to drop that transmission pan ever again).

I'm including a couple of photos to show the snapped screw and the pliers I used to retreive the broken screw. It was pretty easy to retrieve.







Now, if you do replace the conductor plate, take a couple of minutes and check that all the shift solenoids are functioning properly. I used this chart to check the resistance of all of mine.



Hope this info helps someone in the future.

 

Great info. Thank you.

 

And if you do remove the conductor plate, make sure you have the shift quadrant arm engaged to the yellow nylon arm thingey in the above photo when you put it back on.
Ask me how I NOW know to check this.

 

I'll nibble, if only for the help it provides to others who do not ignore replies in posts (and there are a lot, check out the 4-sale posts after the car/parts were LONG GONE).

.

 

Good point....

 

I just noticed a leak around my connector, this morning, while changing the oil. Is there a torque spec for this bolt? I won't be changing it until Spring and warmer weather. Thanks for sharing this info. Is this a common leak point on the crossfire's transmission? I ask this because I only have 51,000 miles on it.

 

I've only owned the car for a couple of months, but from what I've researched it's a very common problem. Mine was leaking so bad that it was wicking oil into the passenger foot well plus it was leaving large stains on the driveway. As far as the torque spec, I'm not sure. Just be sure you feel it seat completely before you go tightening down the bolt. That was my mistake. I was trying to let the bolt seat the plug and that's were things went south. Seat the plug and tighten until you feel it get snug and then call it a day.

Also, drain the fluid. I read somewhere that if you jack it up from only the passenger side you would lose only a small amount of fluid when you pull the plug. Not in my case, I got drenched.

Good luck.

 

If it'll make you feel any better I was doing a fluid change on my SRT6 and the upgrade changeout on the adapter plug. The first thing was the drain plug that takes a TINY LITTLE ALLEN WRENCH. I knew right away that plug was gonna wring out or the wrench was gonna break so I decided to just leave the drain plug alone, and let the pan down over a big catch container. That wasn't too bad, I dripped very little down my arms.


Then, I removed the connector from the adapter, so far so good. Then I tried to pull the adapter out of the transmission but it was stuck. I wiggled and wiggled it but it wouldn't come loose so I got the long nose vise grips and grabbed the edge of the adapter and really leaned on it till it popped. Yep I tore the whole outside of the adapter out and the center with the BOLT was still in there. I looked at the new adapter on the work bench and sure enough there was a small bolt in the center. I KNEW there was a screw that held it in there but at my age brain farts are a common occurance. Fortunately I didn't destroy any of the pins in the transmission and the new adapter went right in. DUH.

 

So I got a new connector from my local Dodge Dealer for $24. Gonna change the filter when I do this also. The vehicle is a 2004 Coupe with 51K miles. Would you guys suggest that I change the conductor plate also?

 

Personally, I would.
Many here are of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school however.
Up to you.

 

I'm by no means an expert on anything, much less these cars. I fit into the "if it isn't broke don't fix it category" but I'm also a big believer in "if your in there, you might as well" school of thought. In fact, I went as far as to get a overlap control valve kit from Sonnax. That's not a straight forward answer but good luck in whatever you decide.

 

Ok Guys, I have a new transmission filter, the connector, and I am planning on changing the rear differential oil. I have a few questions.
1. Advance Auto says I need 8.5 Quarts of Pentosin transmission fluid for the job. It is $19.99/Quart. Ouch!!! Is this true?
2. The differential oil listed is a full synthetic 75/140 and the volume listed is 2.8 quarts.
3. I have all the necessary tools for the job and am capable of doing it but am wondering at this point if I should take it in to the dealer to see if my extended warranty will cover it. Any thoughts? The only problem with the dealer option is they want $100 just to look at the vehicle.

 

8.5 quarts is for the engine fill not the differential, and it may be about right for a full oil change in the tranny, I am not sure. The 2.8 quarts s more like it. It has been noted on here before, have a quick search.
You mention the transmission and then the diff, are you sure you do not mean the tranny oil?