Found two rusting spot today under the hood. Anyone have same problem?

What should I do to stop, fix, and prevent the problem? Or do I just leave it alone?

 

i saw the samething on my '05 but i have not did anything about it yet.

 

The following are in lieu of taking it to a body shop and paying big bucks. In the first situation, remove and replace the bolt which is the likely suspect, treat the hole and area with rust inhibitor (sparingly), allow to dry, insert and torque the new bolt. In the second, loosen the bolts on the hinge or lock carefully scrape the rusted area, treat with rust inhibitor (both sides) allow to thoroughly dry, then retorque the bolts. Watch both areas for return of the rust, but it looks to be surface and this procedure should take care of the problem.

 

The bolts/screws don't seem to be galvanized that well, and seem to be the cause of of the body rust by transference.
You could remove the rusted bolts and replace them, or simply sand, or wire brush them . Then paint with any number of rust preventive coatings on the market.
Living near the ocean, doesn't help. But I see a few rusted bolts on my car, and it's never been in the salt, or seen any "winter" driving. So it's just the moister in the air causing mine to oxidize.
I'd try a silicone, or a petroleum base spray protectant.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll replace the bolts, and see what I can do with the paintjob from there... =)

 

And speaking of future protection, should I apply any rust inhibitor or oil or grease to the new bolts and suspected areas? If I put oil or grease, will it attracts dust and dirt to stick to it? thanks.

 

I agree with the other suggestions. As for the rust inhibitor, go to a motorcycle shop and look for rust/moisture preventor. There are a several different brands, but are all basically the same. Great stuff! You spray it on and it will prevent moisture and rust and will not collect dust or dirt.

 

yup have the same ... take em out, clean it off with a light steel brush, reinstall .... seal it with clear acrylic and clear silicone under the flange if you feel the need ...

come to think of it ... these things are rusting worse than all three neons i owned in the past. soon my 87 wrangler toy truck may have less rust than this thing lol ...

oh well i guess it was not built to last like a Mercedes...

 

Thanks for the post. Hopefully that will motivate everyone to check their cars and take care of minor problems before they become major problems. Rust is a four letter word and the last thing we want associated with the Crossfire. (like the Z car).

 

Jack, I hope you didn't start work on your rust problem yet. Most important is sanding off the rust. Use fine sandpaper and make sure you get all of it. Then paint the spots with Rustoleum. It comes in various colors and it's one of the few anti rust products that really works. I wouldn't put anything oily on it, it will just attract salty contaminates from the road and rust more of your car. End of problem.

 

I will now remove the hood bolts treat with rust inhibitor and re-paint as necessay.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

I found different kinds of rust inhibitor out there. Some say will turn rust into primer, some say contain 90% of zinc, some say will some how prevent rust magically. wonder which one works best on our cars? which one I should avoid?

 

One that comes highly recommended from the restoration folks is Loctite Extend 754 or SEI CPT-298. These are both milky-white coatings.

Phosphoric acid-based compounds such as Naval Jelly are used initially to deactivate the rust. This is necessary unless you are able to completely without question remove all rust from the area. Neutralize the phosphoric acid with a baking soda solution wash.

OTC Rust converter primer is usually some kind of tannic acid mixed with acrylic. Note that most of these dry black, so read the label.

Zinc primers with phosphatizing agents will neutralize rust and form a protective zinc phosphate layer along with unreacted sacrificial zinc in suspension. The only problem with this stuff is that it's not white, it's silver.

 

I bought the Rust-Oleum high performance enamel, Gloss white color, oil based. Wondering if it would do the job.

Also I wonder if I can use the same paint to fix some paint chip together with the lanka paint system. should I get Gloss white or flat white?

 

Hi Jack, For the exterior I would order some "touch-up" paint from the dealer unless the pits have rusted. If they have rusted, go with the rustoleum gloss after removing the rust. Hint: use as little touch-up paint as possible. I know that's more easily said than done. Good luck.

 

This is a timely thread. Yesterday I saw an XF on a dealer lot, about 14k miles. I briefly dropped down to look at the underbody from the rear, and saw a fair amount of corrosion on the exhaust system.

I'm a Californian; I don't typically see a lot of underbody corrosion. (My own XF w/33k miles is much cleaner underneath.) How serious a problem is it? Ignore-and-all-will-be-well-for-many-years? Or take-it-to-a-body-shop-immediately! Or somewhere in between?

 

Just checked mine, it looks clean, except one unsure area (see picture, it is up-side-down at the exhaust tip) is it corrosion or just normal wear or dirt?

 

I'm no expert, but that doesn't look like trouble.

What I was looking at the other day was larger and more significant than that, fwiw.

 

Has anyone replaced the bolts noted as rust prone in this thread? I was wondering if anyone had the size or spec (size, length, finish) for replacements that would eliminate the problem.

 

A Bump For Info!