Please Help!!
This past weekend, my car's instrament panel lit up and would not shift out of the gear it was in. I also noticed the button for the wing was flashing. So, I knew it was electical. I checked the battery and one of the covers was missing and it was caroded like crazy. I cleaned it (not all that great) and it was fine for two days and it did it again. So, I bought some cleaner and tryed to get it off, but didn't have a wire bruch. Needless to say, it happened again this morning and now I am car-less.
So you guys have any idea or similar situations of this happening? What do i need to do
Anything will help. Thanks!
So you guys have any idea or similar situations of this happening? What do i need to do
Anything will help. Thanks!
When you mention one of the battery caps missing I'm assuming you mean the little plastic babies that cover the battery posts?
If you can't remove the clamp from the battery terminal then the only thing left to try is the old Coke routine. Get a can of Coca-cola & gently pour it over the corroded terminal. Wait a while & do it again. Drink some while waiting.
Try starting the car.
The best way, obviously, is to remove the terminal from the post & using anything (file, sandpaper, a pocket knife, whatever) to clean both the post & the inside of the terminal/clamp. A corroded terminal (usually the positive + one) will absolutely prevent your car from starting & since these cars are electrical hostages, will also cause all kinds of other bizarre symptoms.
If none of the above does a darn thing to help you out them maybe the battery itself is toast.
If you can't remove the clamp from the battery terminal then the only thing left to try is the old Coke routine. Get a can of Coca-cola & gently pour it over the corroded terminal. Wait a while & do it again. Drink some while waiting.
Try starting the car.
The best way, obviously, is to remove the terminal from the post & using anything (file, sandpaper, a pocket knife, whatever) to clean both the post & the inside of the terminal/clamp. A corroded terminal (usually the positive + one) will absolutely prevent your car from starting & since these cars are electrical hostages, will also cause all kinds of other bizarre symptoms.
If none of the above does a darn thing to help you out them maybe the battery itself is toast.
That is what makes me believe that it is the connection. I am going to get a wire brush and clean the hell outta it tonight. I will let you guys know what happens. Thanks!
Baking soda will neutralize the acid on the post and clamps. But if you get it in one of the cells it will kill your battery. Use it carefully if you try it. Some people put a little petroleum jelly on the terminal to keep the corrosion away after neutralizing the acid. If it's corroding you have acid escaping. Not a good thing.
Les
Les
Ok, F this. I am not going to take it to the dealer. After reading several posts, I think that it is just the battery. It is giving off so many weird dash signals. Plus the check engine light would come on and off for the past month.
What do you think?
What do you think?
If you have a battery that is corroded, it's leaking. It will eat a hole in your car. And it won't take long. And that spot where the battery is structural underneath so get yourself a new battery.
And the advice about the baking soda solution - water mixed with arm-and-hammer - is good advice. That neutralizes the acid and will help you clean off the car under the battery. Take the battery tray out while you have the battery out - it's only a couple bolts.
Clean it out good.
Put the battery tray back in.
Put in a new battery. I like Optima because they are gel-cells and don't leak, and generally last longer.
Before you reconnect the clamps, use a brush to clean the terminals - they make a special one for batteries.


One part is for cleaning the battery terminal; the other is for the inside of the battery clamps.
When you get the battery back in you will have a few little jobs to take care of.
- Radio memory may be erased (saved stations, preferences etc.)
- You may get a BAS/ESP warning light - don't panic - it's easy to reset:
Don't put off getting the battery. Running the car without a good battery puts stress on your alternator and can damage electrical components that require proper voltage.
And the advice about the baking soda solution - water mixed with arm-and-hammer - is good advice. That neutralizes the acid and will help you clean off the car under the battery. Take the battery tray out while you have the battery out - it's only a couple bolts.
Clean it out good.
Put the battery tray back in.
Put in a new battery. I like Optima because they are gel-cells and don't leak, and generally last longer.
Before you reconnect the clamps, use a brush to clean the terminals - they make a special one for batteries.


One part is for cleaning the battery terminal; the other is for the inside of the battery clamps.
When you get the battery back in you will have a few little jobs to take care of.
- Radio memory may be erased (saved stations, preferences etc.)
- You may get a BAS/ESP warning light - don't panic - it's easy to reset:
Synchronizing ESP
If the power supply was interrupted (battery disconnected
or discharged), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator
light may be illuminated with the engine running. To
re-synchronize the ESP, and cancel the malfunction indicator
light, the steering angle sensor will need to be
recalibrated.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and
then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering wheel back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.
If the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light is still illuminated,
the vehicle should be serviced at an authorized
dealer.
or discharged), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator
light may be illuminated with the engine running. To
re-synchronize the ESP, and cancel the malfunction indicator
light, the steering angle sensor will need to be
recalibrated.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and
then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering wheel back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.
If the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light is still illuminated,
the vehicle should be serviced at an authorized
dealer.
(manual, p76 - UNDERSTANDING THE FEATURES OF YOUR VEHICLE)
There may be other things but in my experience, that's what I found.
Don't put off getting the battery. Running the car without a good battery puts stress on your alternator and can damage electrical components that require proper voltage.
Thanks for the info. I am going to buy a battery today when I leave work. Hopefully it will work. I will bring back the old battery later. Also, if it ISNT the battery, can I take the new one back?
Originally Posted by Steenport567
Thanks for the info. I am going to buy a battery today when I leave work. Hopefully it will work. I will bring back the old battery later. Also, if it ISNT the battery, can I take the new one back?
But honestly, based on the description of your old battery, it needs to be replaced anyway, even if it's not the source of your problem, it's got "issues" that will lead to no good. Consider it money well spent with the winter coming...
Ok, some good news. I replaced the battery. When I started the car, the same lights went on. So I parked it and turned it off. Then, I sat there thinking, "NOOOOO". I turned it back on and it didn't come back on. I continued to drive it down the street for about 15 min. and nothing happened. I went and worked out and tryed it again. All of the lights that were on, are now off!! Yes!!
I am still not going to call it yet. I am a bit worried on why the lights came back on in the first place. Is it because the computer was still in the mode and had not cleared it's self yet? What do you guys think?
Oh, and thanks for all your help.
I am still not going to call it yet. I am a bit worried on why the lights came back on in the first place. Is it because the computer was still in the mode and had not cleared it's self yet? What do you guys think?
Oh, and thanks for all your help.
Did you clean the terminals and rinse with the baking soda solution, and clean under the battery tray? (The cleaning under won't necessarily fix problem but it will prevent serious body damage)
Describe the symptoms in detail starting from first and going in order. What you do, then what happens.
Describe the symptoms in detail starting from first and going in order. What you do, then what happens.
Thanks for the email. I went ahead and replaced the negative cable. It was a $5 part from autozone. I cranked it up and everything was fine. Like I said earlier, I am going to give it a few days until I call this one. I will let you guys know. Thanks!
Well, here we ago again. It is yet again doing it. For some reason it does it thing in the morning. After I take the wires off of the battery for a while it will go off. So, I am going to take it to the dealer.
I talked to a mechanic friend yesterday and he said it was in a "limp mode" and needed to get to the dealer. I think it is some sort of sensor that has gone bad and takes a while for it to reset. I hope it will not kill me price wise.
I talked to a mechanic friend yesterday and he said it was in a "limp mode" and needed to get to the dealer. I think it is some sort of sensor that has gone bad and takes a while for it to reset. I hope it will not kill me price wise.



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