My Limited has 25,000 miles on the stock exhaust. I would have the rear of the car up on rino ramps. This means I will be on my back while trying to remove/loosen the stock converter pipe. I understand the connections can be frozen because of the aluminum shrinking over the years. Am I better off letting a muffler shop install the Magnaflow or can this be done fairly easy by myself.
The shops here where I live want a $100.00 to do this. Sure would like to save the money.
Although I searched the forums this information wasn't discussed. Or I missed it. appreciate any help.

 

I installed mine in about an hour, and it looks and sounds great. If you install one, some of the tips you can find on here by doing a search will help. I used an exhaust donut stretcher tool that helped significantly in the removal of the OEM exhaust. That was the hardest part, but did it myself with the stretcher, some coat hanger wire, and a little WD-40. I also used a long zip-tie to pull the muffler rubber hangers together. That keeps the donut hangers from slipping off of the new mufflers. I also, put 3/8” hose clamp on the end of the passenger side muffler hanger to make double sure. Some on here have had trouble with that side slipping off. Both the zip-tie and hose clamp have been suggested by Forum members if you do a search. They also help keep the Magnaflow centered. Sorry, I don't have any pics of the installation process. Here's link to a picture of the stretcher tool. I got mine locally at a local tool discount center for about $3.
http://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?Pag...OD&ProdID=3923

 

considering that I had my ANSA installed at a shop for $50, that surprises me ... particularly inview of the fact that my installation involved cutting, inserting a new section of pipe, welding and creating a means of securing the new muffler to the anchor bracket, NONE of which would be the case for you ... my suggestion is that you get a price from another muffler shop ... try to find one that is not a 'chain' operation such as Midas or Meineke, but a smaller, independent shop such as the one I used where the owner is the guy doing the job ... big shops have less autonomy and have 'shop rates' that are based on 'book time' where smaller guys tend to charge based on the actual time and trouble required for the task ... which in your case is actually rather minimal by muffler shop standards ...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveS

try to find one that is not a 'chain' operation such as Midas or Meineke, but a smaller, independent shop such as the one I used where the owner is the guy doing the job ...

+1 on that!

I took my Durango to a Meineke shop - they wanted $370 to replace the 2 tailpipes only...went to a small muffler shop and they charged $180 to replace the 2 tailpipes and put on a new Flowmaster muffler, too!

 

Thanks. I read that in one of the forums. If I can find a shop that will charge $50.00 and can do it correctly I will go that route.

 

Thanks. Your right I think 50.00 is reasonable. The price I got was from Meineke. I had exhaust work done before on a custom BMW M3 by a smaller shop. Although they charged less, it was never right. Might be worth the extra $50.00 to have a reputable shop do it.

 

All they have to do is unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one and deal the hangers. The hangers should be a piece of cake for them. No cutting or welding. Shouldn't even take a half hour on a hoist. I think $50 should be a maximum.

 

I had the same system installed a few weeks ago at a local Mieneke shop for $125.00. Job was done in 'bout an hour but they just couldn't get it centered right. I gave up on them and will do it myself "street mechanic" style when the weather gets better. Love the new sound. Enjoy yours.

 

I had to do some bendin' on the support rods on the new muffler to center it up just right. I think this is a problem with all of the 16633 catbacks. It does take some serious persuasion to get them to move too. They are pretty stiff.

 

You don't specify if you have a Roadster or not.

If you do then you also have to deal with the underbody brace.

 

Hey Maxcichon, any advice on bending those support rods without breaking them off? Heat and bend or old school hammering?LOL I'm like "Monk" on t.v. hate to see the tips off center.

 

I had to move mine 3/8" to one side and just whacked them with a 6 lb maul and a wooden block. I didn't think it needed heat-not enough of a move. They bent about 1" up from the welds. No problem really, just inconvenient to have to drop it after fighting with the rubber bands the first time!

 

Mine is an '05 limited coupe, that mean it's easier than dealing with an underbody brace?

 

Thanks Bro, Spring is coming and any advice is appreciated. I'll be crawling underneath soon.

 

When I did mine, I thought it was hanging just fine-for a day. After it hung there and got shook around a good bit is when I really noticed it. Make your best guess how far to move them. You don't want to do it again! Too far or too little I am sure will pi$$ you off even more.

 

You got that right my Bro, I'm getting a little too old to be crawling under this baby in the street so I better do it right the first time!LOL I just don't trust anybody else wrenching on it. Thanks

 

I probably don't need to say this BUT-crooked is easy-just loosen the rear clamp and twist/retighten. It's just the right/left offset (centering) that needs a hammer.

 

You have it made.

Coupes don't have the underbody brace, only roadsters. It's a simple bolt on for you!

 

It's a Limited Coup.

 

Then you are Golden too!