New Crossfire Check Engine Light
Re: New Crossfire Check Engine Light
Originally Posted by ri2300
Just got back from Autozone and the code is P0131
The PO131 code is Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage. Nothing to "freak out" about. Easy fix. There is a 99.9% chance that the seller knew this and turned the light out prior to selling it to you. I sell cars on the side and dealers do this to each other all the time at the auction. O2's are a common code.
Re: New Crossfire Check Engine Light
Not a big deal really. The hardest problem I have with O2 sensors is locating the one giving the trouble if you have no diagrams.
The low voltage signal usually means the "heater" in the sensor is defective or open. The heater allows the sensor to warm up faster, to allow the ECM to control the fuel mixture quicker and more accurate. Also it keeps the sensor heated to the proper temperature when idling a period of time when the exhaust runs to cool for an accurate reading.
Until the sensor warms up, the system runs on defaults (open loop). I would think the Crossfire is the same...
Good luck, James
The low voltage signal usually means the "heater" in the sensor is defective or open. The heater allows the sensor to warm up faster, to allow the ECM to control the fuel mixture quicker and more accurate. Also it keeps the sensor heated to the proper temperature when idling a period of time when the exhaust runs to cool for an accurate reading.
Until the sensor warms up, the system runs on defaults (open loop). I would think the Crossfire is the same...
Good luck, James
Re: New Crossfire Check Engine Light
Originally Posted by ri2300
What should I do to try to fix this first?
Re: New Crossfire Check Engine Light
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I believe it's the front passenger side...?
$112.00 here > http://www.autopartsworld.com/result...67171&ref=true
I believe it's the front passenger side...?
$112.00 here > http://www.autopartsworld.com/result...67171&ref=true
Re: New Crossfire Check Engine Light
James1549 is dead on, and so is billangiep. Go with the direct fit. It's more money, but better in the long run. It's the only kind that I would use in my repair shop. The universal ones requires splicing and as I posted we are working with a low voltage and a tight range as well. If the connection is not done correctly, the resistance will be too high thus the voltage too low and you can have the same problem again. Plus, you must insulate them, and if an error is made here, another problem can occur. It's just not worth the small savings. If you have it done at a shop, demand direct fit and ask to see the box.
Last edited by JimmyJames; 05-25-2010 at 08:56 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
roychez
Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and Differential
15
08-31-2022 01:11 AM
eastside08
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications
3
06-07-2015 07:21 PM
imported_mightyjlr
Crossfire Coupe
0
08-01-2003 04:46 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)