Question for all you smart people. How can I tell if synthetic or regular oil was in my car when I purchased it? I bought this car new September (left over 2004).

When we questioned the salesman at the time, he didn't even know the Crossfire took synthetic! We didn't either until we read the manual...doesn't surprise me. In fact, he looked puzzled at the idea of synthetic oil.

Anyway, is there way to tell? Or, am I going to have to make a long distance call to the dealer to find out? I bought it about an hour's drive from where I live. I can't stand that dealership. I said so in the survey LOL.

I am not going to like taking my XF to them for the first oil change, but alas. Also, I will need the "updated" radio as I have the "old" look.

Thanks!

 

Most salesmen I dealt with really didn't know much about the Crossfire. If the car was new with no real miles on it, I'm sure its factory synthetic oil. There is even a label under the hood on mine that says Mobil 0w40 synthetic...

As for a way of telling regular oil from synthetic that is an interesting question...

Mark

 

I guess the only way to tell if its regular oil is to have it tested. I can't remember the lab that tests it (I believe its called black something or another) but they should be able to tell you. I'd just switch it over to synthetic right away, this way, YOU know what's in there. I just did my first oil change and incase you don't know, it takes 8.5 quarts of oil and the oil filter is special to our cars. I got (2) oil filters from the dealership for a little over $25.00. I bought two just to have an extra one for next time. I prefer Mobil 1, but there's many synthetics out there, good luck!

 

Thanks Rabid. I also have that sticker, but I just don't trust the dealership. I am thinking you are right, though, that surely synthetic oil had to have been put in at factory.

 

Thanks Aero. My main concern was in case I had to top off before I go for first change. I don't want to mix them (don't know if that would be harmful). From what I understand, during the break in period, cars can use more oil than after break in period (?).

Yah, I know about the amount of oil. ::gasp::. Gee, I am so used my Miata taking a LOT less oil and purchasing oil filter cheap. LOL

 

Only 182 miles when I purchased it a couple of months ago. I now have a tad over 1,500. I use it as daily commuter...while my Miata sits and rests. LOL

 

what do you mean by the "old" style radio, sounds interesting?

and how do you like your manual?

thanks

 

I really meant the original radio that came with the first 2004s. The one that needs replacing because the display to too dim. There's a service bulletin out regarding having these original radios changed out under warranty. The replacement has a much better display that can be seen in the daylight.

Sorry I mis-worded it. "original" radio

 

Hi Cissy. You ask a good question regarding the oil that is actually in your engine. There is NO simple way to discern if the oil in your car is regular dino juice or a synthetic blend or a pure synthetic. You can go to the following website:http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html and have them perform an oil test on a sample of oil that you send them. I have used this firm in the past. I would suspect it is synthetic and from the factory.

As an aside, I have made up a Microsoft Word Document that says:

THIS CROSSFIRE REQUIRES MOBILE-1 0W-40
GRADE ENGINE OIL AND REQUIRES 8.5 QTS
WITH OIL FILTER CHANGE.

I tape it to the center of the dash covering the radio.
Just a reminder to the tech that the oil type and quantity are NOT typical.

I also discuss this with the service manager.

Then, when I pick up the car after service, I start the engine and BEFORE
driving off the lot, with the engine idling, I open the hood and visually
inspect the area around the oil filter (which is on the top right front side of the engine)
to insure that it is sealed up well and not leaking. The reason for this is that if the oil filter
cap or gaskets are not on correctly, you will end up with bath of oil over everything in the
engine bay. Not good so this simple visual test is one I suggest every Crossfire owner
subscribes to.

One other thing, When you go in for a DOUBLE WRENCH or "B" service interval,
you REALLY have to stress this to the service manager.... have him show you
what a "B" service entails. (It is more complex than the "A" or single wrench service).

 

You are worse than me when it comes to Dealers...:lol

 

Hi Art
thanks so much for your detailed answer. I think it is a great idea you have with that document. Think I just may do the same. Also, do the check afterwards. Wow, I am impressed and would have never thought of that.

 

I just can't stand them! ARRGGHHH

 

Just about to have my oil changed 11,119 on the odometer had the first one done at 6k no issues with my dealer and that one was for free. My service writer knew all the details about the car and the tsb that have been addressed. The only one they haven't solved is the rattle in the rear hatch area. I get so nervous after reading all your negative posts. The best thing you can do is write down everything you want addressed and hand it to the service writer.

 

That one you can probably fix yourself. Push down hard and let go on the rear of the hatch while it is closed. If you can make the same rattle it means that the rubber bumpers on the hatch door are out of adjustment. Open the hatch and on each side of the door near the bottom are the two rubber bumpers. You'll notice a screw on each of them. Loosen the screw and slide the bumper down a bit then re-tighten the screw.

 

I always close the trunk myself. On time one person closed it like an american vehicle and slam dunked it. If you continually do this it will nock the bumpers out of adjustment. To properly close the trunk hold it about 10" above close and let it drop. It will close with a nice little "chug".

 

That's exactly the way I do it too. Now if I could only get people to stop slamming the passenger door...