I got out the SRT 6 Saturday for the first time this year ( MAN THAT FELT GOOD). I installed the cooling fans & temp. gauge on the aftercooler/HE this past winter, but didn't get to get the car out. Well Saturday just crusing around town the temp's were between 83 & 87 degree's. But after I started getting into it a little the temps was reading from high 90's to 110 degree's. Dumb a$$ me left the remote for the fans at home, so I didn't get to see what kind of difference the fans would have made, but I thought those were some pretty low temp's (68 degree's outside). After getting home the car was at max operating temp & the radiator fan was running so I got out the remote to turn the fans on, the HE temp's at the time had climed to 133, 5 minutes after turning the fans on it dropped down to 124 degree's. The way the cooling was acting I still think the I/C pump runs any time the key is on, but I also think the pump is a variable speed pump. I think the I/C control module sends a lower voltage(pulse voltage) to the pump just idiling or low RPM's to make it run slower. Then when getting on it or at higher RPM's it gets the full 12 volt's to run faster, I believe that's where the term pulse voltage comes in from the I/C pump control module. Just figured I'd share .

 

Thanks for the update Steve, this is a mod that I have thought about doing for sometime. I am just not comfortable with taking the front bumper off to do the install. .

 

Front bumper is a peice of cake, except for two small bolts you have to go after through the side marker hole & the fender-well. One thing I did notice on my way home from town was that when I left town the gauge read 108 and after 2&1/2 miles of highway driving (that's were I turn off the highway to go home) the temp dropped to 87, that's with no fans just air flow. The pulse voltage from the I/C pump module still has me a little baffeled. I will probably end up breaking into the circuit down by the pump and installing a DPDT relay operated with the same remote control as the fans that will activate a full 12 volts to the pump when I turn the fans on. Doing this I can switch from the OEM circuit to a full 12 volt circuit and switch back without the circuits intermingling.

 

Steve - Take a look at the pictures in my gallery under IAT Gauge. I just installed my IAT Gauge and noticed the same thing.

It looks like your coolant temps may read a bit lower then the intake air temps. We will need to do some more comparison.

When driving around town (stop and go) the IAT were 35 - 45 Deg above the OAT. - They would jump when at a stop and take a bit longer to cool down once moving.

When cruzing on the freeway - 65 to 75 MPH the IAT's were pretty constant at 25 - 35 Deg above the OAT. I thought they would be much higher.

I hit a 5-6 mile climb from 600' altitude to 3,700 and was on it - keeping the boot gauge at 12-16 lbs as best I could with the traffic and the IAT rose to 135Deg - that was the max reading I saw. But one off the boost and just cruzing - temps dropped right back down.

 

Some of our temp differences is probably because we are reading temps from different locations and one being air (if I understood you right) and the other being coolant. Where the coolant probe is on my HE, it should be reading the temp of the coolant returning from the I/C, I was really surprized how fast the coolant temps raised when I was getting into it for a few minutes playing around town. They went from mid 80's to 115-120 in no time. Just crusing town I too thought that the coolant temps in the HE would be a lot higher than mid 80's, but they stayed right there and steady as long as I wasn't getting on it. Since I don't have a boost gauge, I need to set something up that lets me know when the S/C is engaged.

 

Maybe a little red light that comes on when the s/c clutch engauges, spliced in?

You have the split resevior mod right?

 

Yeah, a little light spliced in to the S/C clutch circuit is what I was thinking.