I have been autocrossing my srt and the car is getting comments like that is an animal, leaves like a monster and so forth......

I have had the T/C off every time but the other day 1/2 way through the course the BAS ESP light came on and the throttle was inoperative, power went to zero and I coasted off the course. In the last two days I have punched it and again the light came on as it fell on its face as I was getting really down on it. This has occured in first or second or third gear on different times, and no its not the pump, all I do is go to neutral, switch off and restart and go back to D without stopping, to reset it. The motor is cool as I have a 172 degree stat working and the gauge is only up two marks, one below 1/2 way on the temp scale. The power loss is instantaneous and not the pump issue, as the transmission also is put into the neutral position even though I am in D for drive. This is some "Robbie the robot" internal self protection mode that stops your 'game'.

To test my theory I pulled the fuses 17 and 18 and then hammered it again and again, no trouble. I am convinced that the Yaw sensor is pulling the power as it is 'concerned with the attitude of the car'.

I am seeking info on the access to the sensor as I do not want to leave the fuses out for that causes the ABS to be inoperative and that is not good on the street with all the crazies to deal with.

So anyone done this or know how to get to the connector or sensor ????????

Enjoy, Woody

 

The yaw sensor is in the center console.

People have had it disabled before, with no bad effect if I remember correctly.

I was thinking of putting a switch in-line with mine so I could turn it off whenever I wanted.

 

GREAT< how do I get to it and how does one dissassemble ( no dissassemble Johnny #5 ) the center console safely ...without goofing up the trim????????? Thanks & Enjoy, Woody

 

Woody, I have my fuses #17 & #18 set up to turn them off with a remote control key fob. I used #8 gauge wire since the fuse's were 40 amp, I think #10 gauge would have worked okay and I know it would have been easier building the circuit with #10. I know you were asking about the YAW sensor and I too have kind of looked into trying to do something about putting in a switch to turn it off & on. But anyway here's a link to the thread on setting up the two fuse's on a remote control disconnect - https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=19977

Steve

 

I really want to disconnect my yaw sensor as well but i heard it would make the ABS inoperative.

Can anyone confirm?

 

Thanks Steve, you reduced the time I spend THIS weekend doing some thing else to my HANGER QUEEN. I swear that if should get frequent flyer miles for the ups and downs on the lift...... I plan on having it turn off when Iam on the Go and leave it off for the street so I get the bennies of stability.

As soon as I get a chance I will pop the sensor and report back to yall.

Have you guys had the bas /esp kicking offr when your doing a hard run and maybe a bit of a turn. Did your car also kick off the throttle and "nose dive"?
Enjoy, Woody

 

woody i have only had that bas/esp light come on when my s/c pump went out. it went away when i replaced it

BTW: it did not kill the throttle

 

I have taken apart my center console and unclipped the yaw sensor, and even fabbed up a nice switch where the passenger airbag indicator was.

Did absolutely nothing. I guess it doesn't work on the later models. boy, was I angry when it didn't work. My brother and I drove around with my brother behind the wheel while I was holding the center console. Couldn't even chirp the wheels.

Hope you have better luck than me!!

 

wtf, you sure it was the yaw sensor? id be pissed.

 

The yaw sensor can be reached by removing the two screws inside the center console storage area and then popping the trim from around the shifter. I believe there are two more screws there. There may be two more under the front vertical section of the center console covering the stereo and climate controls, but I forget.

The yaw sensor is right behind the shifter itself. Please refer to the service manual for the exact location.

If you put a switch on it... did you get a mulitple pole switch that breaks all the connections? Or did you choose just one or two wires at random? I would suggest that you make sure to get the ground (pin 5) and the +5 volt supply circuit (pin 3) for the disconnect. Pins 1 and 2 are the CAN bus connections.

Another way to test it is to pull the plug on the unit and then replace the center console and take it for a spin. The BAS/ESP light should be on now. I don't know if it affects the ABS or not. I was under the impression that this is only the ESP itself.

 

the first thing I did was strip a portion of each of the five wires. The red and green striped wire was the only wire that set off my test light with the car running, the key in the "run" position, and the key in the "off" position. So, I assumed that was the power wire.

So, I cut that wire, added another 2 segments to the existing wire and attached those to a nice switch with a light in it when power was running through it.

Went for the beat run, flicked the switch off: ESP/BAS light comes on. Good sign. My brother revs it to around 3k and drops the hammer. ESP light comes on and cuts power. Now, I was a little crestfallen, but not totally defeated. This time, I ripped off the entire module and banged a U-turn. Revved it to 3k, dropped the clutch: same story. Lights flashed and power was cut. I was so pissed I almost threw the center console out the window.

Just for clarification, the sensor has a black clip-on section, and the actual sensor is shiny aluminum with a sticker on it that has a Mercedes symbol on it, right? I have a picture on my phone, I'll upload it when I leave work.

 

What RPM are you hitting when it flashes the lights and the power cuts? If you are hitting redline very quickly, that may be the issue. The ECU on these vehicles protects the driveline very well. The ESP is there to protect the vehicle from getting out of control, the ECU will do the same if you are 'banging' the engine around the RPM range too much.

I wish Woody from across the pond was here to answer this one. He has either a 2004 or a 2005 limited (I can't recall which) and has easily done donuts after he disconnected his yaw sensor.

Anyone else with a 2007 willing to see if it's common with the 2007s? Anyone with a 2004 or 2005 Limited want to disconnect their yaw sensor and see if they can replicate this?

 

it cuts power right away.

I want burnouts!!! I have been able to kick the back end out once or twice in the rain, but it would do my heart good if I could smoke the tires.

 

Waldig,
For what it's worth, I've AX'd my srt 4 times now, (tomorrow will be #5) and the light has yet to come on during a run. I also have the T/C off, and no fuses pulled. Car is completely stock. I have, however, lost the supercharger during at least 1 run of every event. Took it in, replaced the sensor, (dealer won't do the pump until the sensor fails again), so we'll see if it fails tomorrow.

 

Sorry for posting this in a thread not relatively close to the topic, but the search function has proved unhelpful. Speaking of launches, could someone tell me or point me in the direction of a thread that explains the best way to launch the SRT. (i.e. how much throttle to give while holding the brake)

 

The Yaw sensor does not control ASR and therefore it has nothing to do with cutting power to the engiine. The Yaw sensor is used for ESP which applies the brakes to the front and rear of the car in the event car is out of control. The Yaw sensor is not used while the car is going straight so how do you expect removing it will allow you to do a burnout.

 

I was informed that if you take down the sensor, for safety reasons, the entire ESP BAS is wiped out.