I'm getting ready to put the C3P supercharger pulley on, and when I was reading one of the threads regarding this upgrade, there was mention that a belt strap wrench made the swap a lot easier.

I've never heard of such a tool. What is it, what's it do and where do I get one :-)

TIA,
Brian

 

Its like a belt (pants style) with a handle to allow you to grab a round object and torque it. I did not need one, I loosened the bolt before removing the V belt and just paid attention.
WOODY

 

Thanks Waldig.

This is the tool they were using ?



I assume they used to to man handle the pulley off the supercharger ?

 

The plastic one are pretty much crap. If it is a low torque application you'll be okay. Otherwise look for one with a nylon strap that attaches to a socket wrench like this, much better and much more useful.http://www.toolstoragewarehouse.com/...terwrench.aspx

 

That's exactly the one I bought to use on mine. It was something like $12 from K-Mart. The idea is you hold the supercharger pulley stationary with the strap wrench, while you are loosening the bolt on the front of the pulley. If you don't hold the pulley still and try to turn the bolt, the whole pulley turns and you get nowhere fast.

 

I don't use the strap either.
VERY easy to take off with my electric impact wrench!

 

Ah ha, that makes sense, thanks ! Might be worth getting one just in case.

 

the blue rubber belt strap wrench in thread # 3 above is fine. as i recall you only have to torque the bolt on the sc pulley 25 or 28 ftlbs. have fun ( i know you will when you feel the results of this mod.) ILLCYA

 

Personally, I think strap wrenches are total GARBAGE! I bought the Red/Blue set pictured above just for this purpose. I broke the Blue on in the process and cut a grove in the Red one. After all that, I borrowed a heavy duty steel one about 2 feet long from a plumber friend of mine. Still could get the bolt off. It finally came off with a breaker bar. The problem then was the GD bolt BROKE OFF!!!! Luckily it was hollow, so a bolt extractor was able to get the rest of it out. I replaced it with a Grade 8 Allen head bolt and forged steel washer. I used an electric impact with a 30 ft. lbs torque stick to put it back on. To ANYONE doing this, I recommend using an impact gun(carefully) to loosen the bolt before taking the belt off, and again to tighten it once you put the belt back on. Just my $0.02.

 

The standard 12mm bolt should be torqued to ~14 ft/lbs (20nm). The Blue strap will work great to do this job, unless someone else has used an impact wrench to over torque to 30 lb/ft.

 

I apparently had unique circumstances... There is NO WAY that thing was only originally tighten to 14 ft/lbs. That's just my luck I guess. You don't break a bolt and a strap wrench removing a bolt with 14 ft lbs. Murphy HAS ALWAYS hated me... I hope no one else has this problem.

 

I would be concerned using an impact wrench. I think your right NeverEnough, you had a strange circumstance. This impact wrench will possibly overtorq the threads and either strip them, break the bolt or put it back on too tight. With the strap wrench, it is a piece of cake. I was the one that mentioned this idea for two reasons. One is the above.

The second was that I wanted to put the bolt back in precisley the same place. If you look closely, the person that assembled the engine and mounted the original pully marked the bolt and assembly with a white paint line. Most of the time you see this is to tell if someone tampered with the original install or if a bolt is coming loose. I wanted those white lines to line up perfectly just as they were from the factory. The only way to do this is to carefully line them up by hand. I had to start the treadding a few times to get it to line up with the proper torq but it did work.

Steve

 

In an ideal world, that was my plan as well. I went to the Benz and Chrysler dealer to get a new bolt, but it was only available in a $1069.00 SC Repair kit... The Grade 8 Allen bolt from Fastenal was a little cheaper. I figure I can get a used supercharger for close to what the dealer wants for the repair kit, so if it fails, I'll be going that route. Bout so far so good. Been to the track and driven it pretty hard and no issues...

 

I also broke my strap wrench and then by sheer circumstance also broke the s/c pulley bolt. Does anyone have a lead on a replacement "factory" bolt? I replace the bolt but would like to have a factory bolt if I have any warranty trouble and have to put my old pulley back on.

 

i used the strap wrench...saved a lot of time. Trust me, i wasted a good 1hr trying to get it off the code3 way. I got it off in 5min with the strap wrench.

 

My thoughts exactly!
I bought some "Penzoil" plastic wrenches from the local Checker for about $15 for the pair. They work great. Yes the oem pulley should only be torqued to 20 NM, and the larger of the 2 pictued should work just fine.

Ive used it several times with zero issues and wouldnt think about using any type of impact on the hollow supercharger pulley bolt, even if it is only to remove it. Why is the bolt hollow? I would have to imagine because of the high speed of the pulley, the stress load is on the surface of the bolt (larger bolt) vs the bolt being solid. Over torqing this bolt will cause it to break vs strip the hell out of the SC? Thats the only thing I can think of.

If you notice the large washer on the front of the pulley and the stock bolt, they should ahve a white marking on both. If you place this washer back on in the exact location it was on prior to removal, finger tighten the bolt, it should "almost" light right up, not be on the opposite side. Torquing to 20nm (practically nothing) the paint mark should line exactly up. This was verified by me with using my cheap strap wrench and snapon digital torque wrench on more than 5 different occasions.

Your mileage may vary.

 

So does anyone know or have a way to replace the hollow s/c bolt. I have a regular 12mm bolt on now due to breaking the factory bolt and would like to put an OEM bolt back. There is a safety reason for the hollow bolt and the fact that it is a red flag when it is not there. Aside of paying the $1000 dollars for a repair kit as mentioned above, does anyone have a part number or a line on replacements? PLEASE

 

thats what i Used. Brandon of Code3Performance recommended it and it DID make the install and uninstall much easier.