You are correct. We just need a metric threaded stud threaded on both ends to replace the bolt. Then a nice .125" strap with a seat/washer for the bearing and you are set.

MikeR

 

Now if we just knew someone that is great at fabbing up brackets.....

 

I'll take care of as many of you as I can. Consider your bearing on LET. [/QUOTE]


Howdy Jerry;
It seems to appear as though the slight squeek from under my hood IS the bearing.
Please send one out as soon as you can. I have also PM'ed you.
Mike

 

Get on Jerry's list here

 

Please head up the project and find someone that could make this bracket. I'll then send it off to the machine shop and get enough made for everyone. I don't have access to the motor any longer...I drive a 135i now.

It doesn't have to be pretty, it just needs to hold up during shipping.

 

See what I can do. Will likely be the weekend before I can get all the info - Maybe I can get a basic dimensional drawing for a machine shop.
Then just need the stud & nuts - anyone know the current bolt size off hand?

 

If I'm correct, people with the Code3 wouldn't have an issue right? The crank is still the same size so its still spinning the system same RPM, and only the smaller s/c pulley is spinning faster right?

 

That's correct OZ.
Unless they are running a crank pulley and the code 3!
Now who in their right mind....

 

I looked into my engine bay this morning to check for any further damage other than the water pump pulley and belt. As I was inspecting each pulley (spinning them checking for damage) I noticed that they all spinned pretty easily except for the idler pulley. Although it still turns, it didn't turn freely like the other pulleys did. I had to actually grab it moderately hard and spin it. The other pullies spinned just using my fingers. I don't know if that sheds any light on this problem, but figured I'd share that. I'm wondering if the increased rotating friction speeded up the demise of the water pulley?

 

Blue, If that pulley isnt spinning freely like the others, the bearings are going bye bye.

70GT6, I will pull mine apart this afternoon and and get the dimensions and start doing a drawing. It will be based on the current ideler I have, so if Jerry makes any changes on bearing or idler dimensions we will have to adjust. I'll see what I can do for a mock up too. That will take a little more time.

MikeR

 

Jerry, Are the ideler pulleys the same dimensions for the 181, 185 and ASP? Just want to be sure.

MikeR

 

All of ours are the same. I would assume ASP is the same as well.

 

Hey Jerry;
On some days do you feel as though you have
answered the same question 20 or 30 times?
LOL
Mike

 

Jerry,

You have a PM.

 

What, you afraid to talk to Jerry so you try to go through his prime minister?

 

LOL, thats funny.

 

I pulled my Idler pulley and got all the dimensions(I think) to do the drawing. I found some scraps that worked out quite well for giving you an idea of how the strap mounts. This is 3/8 aluminum stock, so it is a little thick. But you can see how it will fit and there is plenty of room for the strap. One pic shows the mounting points(circled in black) and then a couple of pics of a mocked up strap with the pulley.
The pulley uses a 10mm bolt, the unused mount we found is a 6mm bolt. The spacing is 3.780",center to center. The idler bearing sits about .475" lower than our strap so that would be what we need for a spacer/seat from out strap. Anyway, here is what it could look like...

MikeR


edit: here is the first pass drawing of the strap and how it fits.

 

Way to go MikeR! Exactly what I was thinking.

 

Looking good!

 

<---- here for the gangbang