**With the code 3 belt wrap kit, do you need a new belt to use it?

**NW manifolds, I've been following this mod for a while now and I just want to get an update from people running these. Has there been any problems with running lean, even after the InMotion Tune that Rob recommends? Just looking to hear what the thoughts are from those running the NW mani's.

 

There's a huge power increase when the car is tuned and a very noticeable seat of the pants feeling. It'll put a grin on your face! Besides it helps with the air/fuel mixture to be where you want it to be. Better safe than sorry....

 

The InMotion mail-in tune will be a custom tune. Your fortunate that Rob gave InMotion all the dyno's and datalogs for each mod he tested along the r&d of each one. So far with the 178 and intake you can choose from several tunes. Only difference is if you want to use race gas or not. The 91 tune really will be all you need. Your going from fast to crazy watch out for telephone poles if you don't let off the gas pedal fast. The mani's will only make it all come together even more. Just depends on how fast you want the car. I have the mods your asking about and have my 1/4 mile times in my sig for each one.

Forgot to address the lean question. InMotion tunes are on the side of safety and running a little rich, but not lean. If you want to be agressive and push the envelope, just tell InMotion that is what you want. Even my 100 octane tune is conservative for a race tune.

 

I am not knocking anyone here but I find it so hard to beleave that people will throw a pulley upgrade on their car without even understanding what is meant by the term Custom Tuned ECU. People are going to be gambling when purchasing these cars second hand in the future. There is going to be a lot of screwed up SRT's out there. With out a plan of action not only are people throwing money away but they are taking huge chances OF JUST WRECKING WHAT WAS A PRETTY IMPRESSIVE CAR before being hacked on by ill informed non mechanically inclined people.
For these types of actions to work in correct unison one needs to make a plan the tuners should be aware of what the owner is planning and what they have to work with.
NO ONE CAN ARGUE THISWhen adding boost be it with a larger crank or code3 s/c pulley you should get a tune for it to operate correctly. I am sure someone will write and say theirs ran just fine without one so to them, just keep on fooling yourself you will never convince those that understand the concepts of Internal Combustion Engines. Not tuning an ECU correctly for the application can lead to serious problems NOT TO MENTION COSTLY ONES. Everyone gets restless waiting to acquire enough to do mods all together but once again no one can argue that it isn't the best way to do it.
Make a plan and no matter how much you want to jump ahead Stick to the plan. Do your homework and do it BEFORE PURCHASING THE WRONG STUFF!
You wouldn't expect your car to able to throw more air down it's manifolds without a better intake system would you? So why would you ask it for more power without the correct fuel to air ratios?

 

Once again MrPhoto you had nothing but a smart remark to add

 

says the guy that does not even know what a pre-cat is lmao........

FYI, for example the code3 pulley works just fine without a tune. you are still running a safe a/f ratio. yes you make more power with a tune but you will not cause catastrophic failure without it like you are implying lmao unless your running dangerously lean which the 185mm pulley may do without a tune. Jeez, go take a nap or something.

 

I am not questioning whether a tune is needed or not, I completely agree with Montana that it should be done to keep the AFRs where they should be. I was wondering if there is a significant difference in whether or not my specific SRT is the one getting dynoed... OR does it really just boil down to a "custom tune" being a generic tune for ALL SRT6s running a particular setup.

As far as the manifolds go, I was just curious if this mod was seeing any of the fuel issues that have popped up in other threads. And on a personal note, I want to enjoy the tune and pulley setup before I would make such a drastic jump, besides I need to have something to look forward to.
-Steve

 

Yes the tunes are generic. Unless you specifically work out with your tuner specified differences. As far as a tune keeping afr where it should be...dont count on that for 1 second. Buy a datalogger or AFR gauge and watch what really happens in the high rpms with extra boost.

 

My SRT is completely stock and probably will be for a while so I'm asking this out of curiosity. As an "ill informed non mechanically inclined" person, I don't understand how a "mail-in" tune works. How can a tuner tune a car without access to the car he's tuning? Don't you need to measure various engine stats while it's running?

 

A generic tune is just that, generic. If you have to tune to the specific mods you have. Yes if you don't hit the track, dyno tune as a baseline. Then datalog and do numerous 1/4 mile runs. It's doesn't have to be at the track, but is safer. The 1/4 mile times aren't your concern, it's your afr's in cool weather, hot weather, etc..

What the original poster asked was the inmotion tune a generic tune for the mods he currenty has. Fortunately InMotion already has base tunes for those from Needswings dyno's and logs. So if you are variating in the slightest then expect different results. Positive or negative, but that's why you should datalog. Those are custom dyno'd tunes, but from air in another state. So a great safe start based on your DA conditions. Yes the ecu will adjust to DA. I raced in 4 states and it changes slightly each time. That's another story for photo to explain.

 

yes. the tune is 100000% worth getting. makes your car run better and safer.

with the code3 belt wrap kit, you can maintain the stock belt with the ASP pulley.