I pulled my SRT6 out of storage last weekend. The battery was dead and I had to boost it to start. I left it on a trickle charger for several days and then took it on a quick 80 mile errand. On the way home I noticed the BAS ESP indicator was solid "on" in the right side of the console display. I also had no supercharger, or at least it seemed to be running at partial power. I applied the brakes hard a couple times and nothing changed.

I decided to stop and top off with some fresh premium. When I started her the warning indicators were off and I had s/c again. I just checked the owner's manual and it cautions about the safety aspects of these indicators, but doesn't say anything about the s/c being disabled. Anybody ever experience this?

My concern is that I had the s/c intercooler and sensor replaced last fall before storing the car and it is now out of warranty. If this is a symptom of a second bad intercooler -- and not related to the BAS ESP -- then I have to look into a Bosch or Ford replacement.

 

The only time my BAS/ESP light came on is when I "fried the supercharger internals". The dealer really could not explain to me in detail as of why or how.

During this time I had no working supercharger and it was in limp mode.

Does this light come on during multiple occasions? It must because I read others including you mentioning this light come on, but with similar/different symptoms.

See what the dealer has to say about it.

 

My BAS and ESP lights have come on 2 times. On the dyno when I pulled fuse 17 and 18 and when I boiled the brake fluid at the track. Each time the lights went off after a restart. As far as the supercharger not working with the lights on, I don't have a clue.

Les

 

If I had to guess, I'd say you lost the input from the front steering angle sensors when the battery went dead. That problem cures itself when you turn the wheels lock-to-lock.

As far as the supercharger being inoperable, you got me. Might be some type of "safety programming " in the computer that puts the car into limp-in mode in case of a stability control problem.

 

Thanks for all the answers. The problem did go away on my 2 mile drive home after I shut down for gas. I'll drive it some more this week to determine if the s/c (intercooler) is again unreliable. I'm reluctant to involve the dealer as it is now out of warranty. I really hope it is just some brilliant Mercedes programming that puts it in "limp" mode if it detects a ESP problem. I'll post an update after some more driving.

 

It happened again on Friday. I noticed the BAS/ESP light and the absence of power at about the same time. I'll try the lock-to-lock reset this evening and take it for a little drive. Hopefully that resolves the problem otherwise I am facing some expense as the warranty is now over.

 

This happened to me one time when i took the wire off to cancel out traction and all that jazz. I think it is just some saftey thing so you dont over heat the supercharger. When i reconnected the wire everything was fine. I tried it a couple more times and the same thing happened. I think after you do the reset you will be fine and no dealer will have to be involved.

 

My BAS and ESP lights would come on when my car would go into "overtemp" for the supercharger system.

• Upgraded to a Johnson pump, same problem.
• Moved heat exchanger higher into the air flow, worked till outdoor temps went up.
• Copied and installed Woody's Super Cooler, no more BAS/ESP lights or overtemp problems!

Will be 97 degrees here this week. Expect no problems now!

 

Did a lock-to-lock reset in the garage and then took her out for some errands. Generally accelerated harder than normal from stops in 70o weather. No problems today. I'll have to see what happens on a longer run on a hotter day.

 

im pretty sure that when the battery is changed, dies, etc. all the crossfires show thoise 2 lights try turning the wheel all the way to the right and then all the way or the other way around. it's got something to do with a sensor being recalibrated

 

Have the dealer hook it up to diagnostic computer and reset all the codes - your issues are related to prolonged power outage to the CPU's. A full reset will solve your problem.
-ej

 

 

You have posted in a nine year old thread, you had best start a new post and describe your symptoms.