Sorry I have been having so much fun that I have been getting behind on some of my projects. Finished another one and ready to share it with you, finally. I have been wanting to do this forever...............

Pulled the YAW sensor and found lots of stuff that is not in the BOOK. First the posts that showed how to pull the sensor were most helpful and got me back on track for this project.

First the 5 volt signal feeding the module is in fact 12 VOLTS...........wow. THe photo shows three meters ( $2.99 EACH) and the first shows the input voltage going to pin #3.

Second the second and third meters show the output of the s-can + and - signals. THe DC average is 2.5 volts and the AC signal is about 4+ volts. IT IS NOT AN ANALOG SIGNAL, ITS A DIGITAL SERIAL INTERFACE. It is not possible for me to NUMB up the signal to make the computer less upset with my driving. THe computer is monitoring the digital data stream including the YAW sensor.

I drove around with the YAW sensor loose and tilted it to see the result(s). Wooooie, the brakes come on and off, you hear the ABS kicking in and doing all manner of strange things. THe computer thinks Iam going sideways and doing all sorts of things to correct the "condition".

Well there you have it dudes and dudettes, cant attenuate the signals amplitude, cant reorientate the module without getting into an issue during acceloration........what to do.

Well thats silly, pull the module out and drive without it??????????? Yup that is the deal for circle turners, the module disconnected allows the car to drive WITHOUT ANY CORRECTION> Taaaaaaa Daaaaaa.

Better yet the ABS STILL WORKS, aint that grand. NO car control, ABS is intact, and you only get the BAS?ESP light on for your efforts. GEE thats swell isn't?

To make it all come together, I added a double pole double throw switch to break each of the signals from the YAW sensor. This would interrupt the + and - signals on pins #1 and #2 WHILE I WANT IT OFF.

By switching the lines off the sensor is offline and not competing me during a driving heat. When I go on the street, by switching it back ON, the control is restored. THe "reset" needs a code reset, I use my dash - Dack from zeitronix for this. After the reset, you have to turn the wheel and drive forward to clear the light........

I have added more photos showing the module, the metering of the signals, and the wiring after the cutout switch is added to the module. When I finish the runs on Sundays autocross, Ill report back and fill you in on the benefits or not as the facts shake out..Reality gotta love it, this may be great or a great mound of ................

Woody enjoying the WEEKEND<<<<<<<<<<<yeah

 

Additional photo for the Yaw activity



Woody, enjoy....................

 

Truly awesome. Thanks for your hard work.



-=MD=-

 

Yup i just keep it unplugged when i want to play. The car is much easier to drive near limits when you know what its going to do..... Just the car and its driver.

 

So what is happening when you turn off Traction Control via the dashboard switch?
Control is still there just not as much as with the switch off.
I'm guessing there's a change of voltages involved.

So Woody I see it as you having three modes of control over yaw.

1. TC full on (light on dash off) car has full control over yaw function
2. TC turned "off" (dash light on) car allows for a little more yaw
3. Yaw control completely disabled

Sound right?

 

SORTA

tc on , you cant spin tires due to wheel speed sensors see motion that does not match front tires.

tc off, you can spin tires but you cant slide or do really hard ( quick ) turns.

tc off and yaw switched off, you are driving the car without assistance or hinderance. What you do you do, you can go in circles like never before, donuts if you like.

Woody

Switch for YAW, tucked in console, did not wanna commit to a hole until its worth was verified. Like my momma said, measure twice cut once..................WW