I have planned to perform the following three modifications:

1) Needswing intake kit (single pipe)
2) Code3 pulley
3) ECU tune

My question is: What can I expect for increase in RW horsepower from stock.

I only plan to perform these mods and nothing more. I look forward to your response. Also, I'm budgeting $2000.00 US, is this reasonable?

 

I may be selling my code3 pulley if you are interested......Might save you a few $.

 

Why?? For sommmmething better...and how much $ ^^^^^^^^

 

Well, honestly.....If all goes well with my meth setup, I will not have room to run the car stacked anymore and won't have a use for it. I will know more in a couple weeks to come......It has been sitting in a box....lonely. :P Price?? Make an offer I guess.....

 

I may be selling my NW Single Intake within 6 weeks (fingers crossed)...I will definitely save you some money.



...however, yes $2000 is WAY more than you will need to accomplish those modifications...the problem is actually stopping after you start.

1) Intake - $500 for NW Single
2) Code 3 - $500 from HPAutoworks...
3) ECU Tune - $600 from Eurocharged...I assume about the same if you go InMotion.


...that is if you purchase all of those brand new.

 

were are you located? tony is doing custom tunes for us in atl on 12/12. 1 slot left!! heres a chance to mark 1 of those mods off the list

 

you can except close to 340 to 350 hp at the rear wheels(each car is defferant) that would put you in the 12.5 to 12.8 ,,,1/4 mile run.

 

With those exact mods and some good cool weather, you will see 350hp and low 12s. I had that for a while and saw 343 hp in the 90 degree summer dyno pulls and 12.2 1/4 mile runs in the winter...

 

What kind of horsepower are we pulling with a stock setup?

 

Mine base lined at 280ish at the rear wheels on a dyno jet. There are so many variables from each car to car and each operator it is useless to compare. You can see a different reading based on outside temps, humidity, engine temp, dyno type, and operator of the dyno. You can even see a difference on the setting of the dyno on the same pull. At the end of the day, the dyno numbers mean nothing…only the time slips from the track do

 

Agreed. The only thing dyno's are good for is to fine tune the car.

 

You guys have been listening to Cruzin too much!!

(even if it is true)

I wonder if a C3 pulley would fit on my SSB????? No, No.... stop that...get away from me you devil.....

 

There are just as many variables at the track, weather DA/Humidity/temperature/ sunny or overcast, plus track prep,and tires.

 

350 RWHP is more than I need. So I would say, crankshaft HP will be around 410 HP based on a 15% loss (280RWHP/330CHP).
The car is currently in central Mexico. San Antonio is home though. Once moded I will be testing how fast the SRT6 will go, lots of good stretches of highway to Monterrey. I've already done 160 mph limited but once I take away the limiter I will take this car to its limit. Probably in the new year when the temps are cooler, 60-80 F. No worries, to prove it I will be taking video. Last time I took a photo, hand held.

FYI, I will be buying new parts but thanks to those who have offered.

Cheers.

 

You are correct...at least the dyno does not care how much you weigh....LOL. All that talk of DA and stuff at the track is just an excuse for why someone is not in the 11's yet..LOL...FLAME ON!!!

 

so I guess it is safe to say you run consistantly in the 11's

 

here we go with that silly overhyped da crap again lol.

as already mentioned, there are lots of things that can cost you time at the track.



anyway, back on topic. i think the OP has a nice list of mods to go on his car and will be under budget with that setup.

 

If the DA of your right foot is within .03576 % of the DA of your left front tire, you will run .5 better in the 1/4. FYI........

 

Dang you owned him there. No one has hit 11's just on the C3 pulley and they never will. Yes that's a challenge for you C3 loyals. Don't forget to mix infamil to fill your bottle!!! LMAO.

Remember DA is only to compare your car to another at every incremental measurement on the track. 60', 330', 660', 1000', 1320'...if you don't have drag radials and you can't drive then it's useless. If your never going to hit the track then your only resource is to dyno. That doesn't mean you can't datalog on a lonely stretch of road, and give those results to your tuner and see if you need any tweaking.

Most importantly dyno or datalog on the coldest day available and still safe to run the car all out through 3rd. On that coldest day, not by coincidence will have the lowest DA of the year and will have the thinnest air available. This will be the day your tune will lean if it's going to. If tuned to that air anything warmer than those conditions you will have a completely safe tune barring part failure.

 

The Code3 pulley price went back up, but yes TS, even if you pay someone else to install the items you can get in under $2000 with what you've chosen.