No Boost:(
So my SRT has a Johnson pump that I installed last Feb. I have had no issues all last spring and summer and then yesterday she fell flat on her face with the dreaded no boost low compression blues. I have not had a chance to check that pump to see if its running or not.
However, it feels just like it did last year before I switched to the Johnson pump. As soon as it gets hot like the temp gauge up half way it starts going in and out. Does anyone know if there is a warranty on those pumps. The damn thing is less than a year old. Bought it from Jake at Eurocharged.
Jake you out there? HELP!
However, it feels just like it did last year before I switched to the Johnson pump. As soon as it gets hot like the temp gauge up half way it starts going in and out. Does anyone know if there is a warranty on those pumps. The damn thing is less than a year old. Bought it from Jake at Eurocharged.
Jake you out there? HELP!
Originally Posted by L&L'sSRT-6
Does anyone know what fuse the pump is on? Guess I should check that first right?
The pump only turns on when a temp sensor on the S/C triggers it. So you actually get boost regardless of the pump until the over ride heat sensor shuts down the clutch on the S/C. So the fuse is still a good place to start.
Originally Posted by msheredy
If the fuse is blown the pump wouldn't work at all cold or hot.
Last edited by robby363; Dec 14, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
Originally Posted by msheredy
If the fuse is blown the pump wouldn't work at all cold or hot.
Originally Posted by L&L'sSRT-6
So what pump do you have on it now? I thought that pump was rock solid. I really dont want to be putting a new pump on every year

Last edited by robby363; Dec 14, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
Did you get any where with a replacement johnson pump after it died. Or did you not try? 7 months on yours, and 11 months for mine. Thats f#%$ing ridiculous for the price and confidence level everyone had for those pumps.
I didn't try because I threw out all the sale's and warranty info if any. They probably wouldn't have replaced it anyway because it's for a boat not a car application.
Originally Posted by L&L'sSRT-6
The pump only turns on when a temp sensor on the S/C triggers it. So you actually get boost regardless of the pump until the over ride heat sensor shuts down the clutch on the S/C. So the fuse is still a good place to start.
Pump turns on when the supercharger first kicks in then remains on until the car is shut off.
Remove the cap from the top of the coolant overflow/storage tank.
Use visegrips or whatever and pinch the upper hose coming from the intercooler below the "Y".
Pull off the tiny hose that is on top of the tank and hold it over the now open storage tank.
Start the car. Put it in gear (DON'T forget to use the brake!) and rev over 1300 rpm so that the SC kicks on. Put car in park.
Coolant should flow from the tiny hose if the pump is on.
I think!
Last edited by tighed1; Dec 14, 2009 at 02:20 PM.
Originally Posted by L&L'sSRT-6
That looks like the same pos Bosche pump the car came with. How has it been working?
Nice trick on getting the pump to go on. Brake on and in gear, I could have used that trick when I did the original install.
Also the hose pinch trick can be used to bleed any air that you may have in the system.
I used a 12 volt motorcycle battery to test for leaks and functionality when I first did it. The putting it in gear and revving to 1300 would have come in handy.
Also the hose pinch trick can be used to bleed any air that you may have in the system.
I used a 12 volt motorcycle battery to test for leaks and functionality when I first did it. The putting it in gear and revving to 1300 would have come in handy.
Then there's this approach.
Nice write up by one of our forum members!
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-pump-srt.html
Nice write up by one of our forum members!
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-pump-srt.html
I actually had a short in my ambient temp sensor. It was shorted out showing -34F when it was unplugged and should be reading 130F or something like that. Basically there had been a short across and the polarity switched. I pulled my ambient temp sensor, put a wire in there to cause a short. Then i reset the battery drove for a few weeks without a ambient temp sensor, then put the temp sensor back in to test it out. Works just fine.
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
It was apparently telling the computer it was -34F outside causing the computer to dump fuel to account for the negative temps...however, since there were no negative temps it cause the engine to overheat and shut off the engine...not to mention the 16mpg I was getting.
In answer to the question I see coming, yes I thought it was the I/C pump. I replaced it, and it kept doing the same thing. Pump was most definitely still working...
NOTE: My dash was still showing the correct temperature.
It was apparently telling the computer it was -34F outside causing the computer to dump fuel to account for the negative temps...however, since there were no negative temps it cause the engine to overheat and shut off the engine...not to mention the 16mpg I was getting.
In answer to the question I see coming, yes I thought it was the I/C pump. I replaced it, and it kept doing the same thing. Pump was most definitely still working...


