After 3 months of battling this thing finally with the help of a new 50 amp fuse my fan, AC, temp gauge finally works!

I had a coolant light come on and Chrysler wanted me to spend $200 to diagnosis it and another $200 for the sensor. The 50 amp fuse that we popped in took it away. FU Chrysler!

Now I wonder if it was just the 50 amp fuse. I ended up buying a new fan and fan controller from a member for a good price, but I just wonder.

Oh well I have AC and the car runs even better. Sorry for the rant.

 

No rant. We all feel your pain.

Now, shut up, already!

 

Take it from me, I always end up wondering why stuff happens when it appears there is no good reason for it. I think maybe the original fan started drawing more juice and that is why you had to put in a 50amp fuse. Now that you have a new fan you could check the load and probably put the other fuse in. Just my theory, may not be worht much .

 

Glad you got her running again.
Hopefully it was just a surge or weak fuse and the new fuse cured it for good!

Who knows. Your experience may help someone here someday!
(BTW change "watt" to "amp" in your post)

 

DJ, I read that and didnt even read 'watt'..... my brain just transposed it to amp......

 

It made me cringe. All three times!

Figured we better fix it before Woody sees it!

 

Alright I changed it fellas! Chrysler did have it on the invoice as a 50 watt fuse

I'm just glad after 3 months of an alternator, fan, fan controller, and now a fuse the car is in proper working condition. Hopefully it will give me some time off and my wallet a break for awhile.

 

Wow, so glad you finally got it fixed. Sorry you had to go through all that aggravation trying to figure out what the heck was wrong.

 

You changed the post to say amp instead of watt once, watt is still there twice more.

 

lol good catch old man. Must of been too excited to have AC now.

 

Currently there are a lot of high voltage persons on this forum and thus there is little resistance learning something new about our cars for the average henry or mho. Sitting in front of our own ohm, in the driveway; our fans draw alot of power when fed the full direct current 12 volts, thus the reason for the controller that typically only meters out about 4 volts to the motor in normal cooling mode.

TO blow the 50 amp fuse ( as the rolling stones put it)indicates to me that the controller may be getting flakey or that the communtator inside the motor has some intermittant grounding going on. In short, you may want to conduct your own investigation to see watt you can find out. No one wants to have to face direlectric failures alone, thus the forum; where we are all tuned into the same wavelength as it were.

It is possible that you will get an inspirational stroke of lightning and determine what the flux happened so that you can insulate yourself from the dark forces.
The dealer would love to charge you mega bucks for something simple. This is wire they are in this field of business. I dont think that they have the capacity to do otherwise, so to shield yourself; it is important overcome your relutance and get under the hood now and then. Dont be a frayed to conduct a battery of tests to scope out the problem in your ohm car. Me for one, I re- coil at the thought of going to the dealer and getting a large shock, this is crystal clear.


Woody a fan of TESLA.

These are the thoughts that sparked this comment as I was conducting a little self study of that lil light bulb in my head.

 

DITTO ERROR

 

Nice write up Professor!

 

Great, I always knew you were well grounded.