I'll certainly take care of that fuel filler compartment!

I'm going to make sure all area's are secured from water getting inside by the time I'm finished.

Edit: I'm also going to add RTV Silicone Sealant around the plate of the existing gasket that holds the Fixed SRT Spoiler Wing in place so that I get an extra seal of protection. I read and saw pictures on funfor2's thread with the how to of 1 inch sections on both sides of the mounting plate showing water getting through that gasket which was obviously a major cause of water intrusion besides just replacing the o-rings. I'm also going to be adding sealant around the holes in that area of where the O-Rings meet. Its good to take the extra pre-caution.

My fellow SRT-6 Owners:

Start taking your wings apart and re-seal these area's, replace those o-rings as well. Take the time to do it now before it IS too late. I can tell you, its bound to happen eventually, give it a shot and do it.


Just a Headsup:

You may need an extra person to help you remove the wing though so it may not be a complete one person job.

 

ThatSweetSRT6, Glad the problem has been identified, and a working fix is in your near future. Again, sorry the chirping siren deal didn't work out for you also! About that siren (if you remove/replace that also), you have to remove both wiper arms with a puller (small one), tap on the puller top after tension is added, it'll help pop the wiper arm loose. Go slow, You sure do not want damage threads on that wiper stud!

This forum has some of the best 'hands-on' help around. Its really a comfort with the wealth of knowledge and experience within these web pages. Too bad Chrysler/MB has to be such stiffies about these cars built-in problems huh.....

Please let us know when your baby is 100%, ok?

 

Good tips! thank you.

I'll keep you all updated when shes done being "worked on". LOL

 

The site of two additional leaks are the wiring pass thrus at the top of the hatch near the hinges. These oval openings have gaskets and are usually quite loose. I separated mine and used black RTV on one that was loose. I will be doing the other one and checking the other areas mentioned in this thread and the other thread this Saturday. I'll get pictures of the other wire pass thru as I make the same RTV repair as I did on the driver's side.

I have not yet had any alarm or lighting issues, but I did toast a becker CD changer. Oh well, better head unit now anyways.

 

I'll look into that! Thanks!

When I uninstalled the Spoiler Wing, I did notice that 2 of the 4 O-Rings were loose and you could see on both sides where the water came through. I decided to replace all of them with 4 brand new o-rings and I then applied RTV Silicone Sealant to seal around the mounts and mounting holes where you put the spoiler wing bolt stem's back in place.

I also noticed on the mounting plate located below the Spoiler Wing that the original gasket that is there had a section where you could see water staining. In that particular area the gasket was completely loose, about an inch and a half long, no wonder so much water was in the trunk well. I applied RTV seal underneath the loose gasket and then re-applied it to stay in place, I also added a decent sized bead following around the original gasket to ensure a tight seal.


Here is some easy HOW-TO Instructions to take off your Spoiler Wing AND Mounting Plate, that I did on my SRT-6 Coupe:

1. When you open your trunk lid, you're going to see on the trim area of where your lid opens UPWARD, towards the right side facing you, from inside, is a section that appears to be a handle of sort, in that square section ( big enough to fit your hand about half way may be ) is a circle cover, pop it off with your flat head, then behind that, its a screw you need to take off. You'll need a Torx T20 Bit to take that puppy off... be careful when taking it out because you may lose it since its small.

2. After you get the Torx T20 Bit off, you're going to need a flat head, I would use that to pry off the trim from where your trunk lock is, theres a small section there you can fit your flat head ( be careful not to scratch your paint while doing this ) so that you may carefully pop off the trim. The trim is held in place by several plastic poppers ( I guess thats what you may call them ), they pop in and out of place from the trim, there is roughly 6 of them that is on that trim. Take the trim off and leave all the poppers in place because you'll need them later to put the trim back in place, its one whole piece.

3. Next you need to take off the 4 nuts that hold your spoiler wing in place, there is 2 of them on each side, follow where your wing is mounted and then look where the nuts are positioned, its rather easy, it'll be the ones where you'll NEED a Deep Socket Drive to get them out. Okay, what you'll need is a Deep Socket 1/4 inch drive, 10 MM socket. For a PERFECT fit and long enough to get to the 4 nuts you need to take off up in there

From there, take them off and be sure to hold your spoiler wing with one hand while you're using the other hand to take the nuts off. Don't lose the nuts! you need them to reinstall later.

4. Carefully take the wing off because the stems comes out with the wing as a whole so don't go destroying your paint now when you're taking the wing off, this is good time to may be have a second person help you to hold the wing while you're uninstalling the nuts, then again I was able to do it by my self fairly simple without the need of any one helping.

5. Place the wing on a dry clean surface, a decent size table would work, place the wing on there and then you can begin to take the o-rings off, add some new fresh ones, be sure to get a good size that fits. At that moment I went ahead and started to uninstall the mounting plate which is located below where your Spoiler Wing was. Under that trim area where you uninstall the nuts for the Spoiler Wing is also where you'll find roughly 8 to 10 of those nuts which is all holding that Mounting Plate, you don't really need the deep socket to get to these, you can use a regular 10mm to get them off, once that is complete, move the mounting plate to the table where your spoiler wing is.

Be sure to use RTV seal all around those area's where the original gasket is, I kept the original one on and put the RTV Seal around both side to give it a good seal, check the original gasket on the mounting plate to be sure that none of it is loose. Like in my case where there was roughly an inch and a half that was loose, I added the RTV Seal below the loose original gasket and then pushed it back down to keep in place. You can then place RTV Seal on the holes of the mounting plate meets when you're about to screw in to place. Go ahead and do the same with your Spoiler Wing mounting area. You'll probably notice it abit rusty where the o-rings rest by the stem brackets, that is water that got up in there, thats how you know its been leaking!

6. Install your nuts back in place, be sure to clean any excess sealant off when you place the mounting plate and the wing and then you can torq your nuts back, tighten it, clean the excess sealant.

7. Put your trim back in place, don't forget to add your T-20 Screw and put the small circle cover and you're done with leak proofing your wing....

Of course, there is the how to's from fastfunfor2 who shows how you can add RTV seal to the gas tank filler compartment that can be another area you may want to seal as well! so check out that thread, its linked throughout this thread, I think on the first or second page.

 

Welp, here are my notes on the process.

The step-by-step above is PERFECT! That's what I did nearly by the letter.

I first have pictures to peak your interest.

This first one shows the fiberglass filler panel in the sun after it's removal so you can see where the seals went wrong upon install at the factory. Note, this was the LAST set installed, there was a glue strip from the FIRST try as well I had to remove later. So they messed this one up TWICE! and it still left the factory!



Next up we have the hatch area uncleaned, again showing the locations of the install errors.



After cleaning up with my favorite product "Goo-Gone" all is looking much, much better.





I then laid down Black RTV sealant in the following shape around the hatch and let it set up for 20 minutes to skin properly. When placing the fiberglass in, line up your gap with the window edge above, start high and let it seat slowly. Then lift the hatch and match up your previous fastener washer marks for proper alignment of the panel.



Lastly, I cleaned up the o-rings on the wing mounts and set a Black RTV bead around the perimeter of the hole and let it set 20 minutes to skin. When I placed the wing, I did NOT tighten or press the wing down. I let it set up about a half hour, then I torqued it down. Only had one small little sealant 'burp' I had to clean and it was near the front.



I hope that helps folks visualize the repair/reseal process.

Cheers!

 

MMZ_TimeLord,

I'm so happy you posted these pictures just below my HOW-TO, because it gives a perfect visual to everyone. Thank you so much for adding them. This will certainly help our fellow members out. =)

 

No charge... yet another free service we provide...

 

I just caught up on the details of this repair, and it sounds as though you have come along well. I just want to add my two cents regarding your upcoming steps.

As you give your central locking pump a good drying out, take a few minutes and clean up the contacts inside the unit that are opened and closed by the vaccuum diaphram. (See the pictures in the headlight headaches thread referred to earlier) They are so small I used an exacto knife to scratch at them because nothing else would fit. These contacts switch off the electric vaccuum pump at the end of the locking sequence. If they are dirty, the electric motor will run on needlessly and overheat. It is not ventilated, so the heat builds up fast. In our situation the problem did not exist until after the other repairs were done, so I had to go back into the module and sort it out. Thats a lot of extra effort you can avoid if you will just give them a good preventative cleaning while you have it apart.

As to the question of one or two modules, there are definitely two in the trunk. The central locking pump is seems most prone to water intrusion, as it sits lower in the puddle. The small silver box screwed to the rear frame rail is the alarm control module. Ours had water damage to the pins but no damage to the inside.

I understand that the 5 body control modules need to communicate with each other to work properly, so I think disconnecting any one of them is not going to be a solution.

Thanks MMZ for the pictures of your wing panel gasket. I wonder what the failure rate of this gasket is. Yours and mine both look like a manufacturing flaw.

 

Jeff,

It was a real great pleasure speaking to you on the phone the other day. Withouth a doubt, you certainly have great insight!

So its been about a week, the foam casing has completely tried, and its given enough time for me to take the info you had given me about cleaning the pin contacts, I used a pin, some sandpaper, vinegar and a good brush along with a soft cloth to clean everything, it did wonders, so much that you cannot even tell there were ever burned marks.

Then inside the vehicle, I cleaned the white connector where the burn marks were for the module with a little bit of vinegar and a light brush, cleaned right up and looks great. I hooked up the locking control module and then pressed the lock button on the remote, the locks did lock perfectly, however, this time I didn't notice the alarm light blink by the tow button in the cabin, and I also noticed that the interior light would stay on. However, on a good note I didn't notice the fog lights or tail lights staying on like the last time I did take it into the dealer.

After I notated that, I just disconnected the Locking Control Module again...

I didn't even leave it on long enough to see if the alarm would go bonkers again or not.

So my question here is, should I have left it on longer to see if it would eventually shut the interior light off, or possibly activate the alarm? or shouldn't it have been more "instant", once everything was cleaned up, shouldn't the interior lights shut off and alarm activation light blink once I activated the system? the locks did unlock and lock perfect, no problems there.

Right now I'm deciding if I should hook up the module again for like 15 minutes and just arm the system and see how things operate, if the alarm starts to go nutty again or the fog lights start turning on, I'll then disconnect and start looking to buy a new Locking Central Module.

On a good note: After leak proofing everything, I've taken my car out for a drive a few times on the highway with a hard rain ( its been raining like crazy over here in Florida lately ) and each and every time I checked the back and everything looks great!!! no more leaky trunk area. That has been taken care of nicely.

 

I wanted to give you all another update.

Basically, I hooked up the Central Locking Control Module back up today to the car. The symptoms as previously mentioned are still the same. However, with it being hooked back up for the last hour or so. The interior cabin light still does not go off, so I just press the switch to the off position to keep the light off. When I press the lock button on the alarm remote, it does in fact lock the doors and the lights do flash indicating the alarm is "armed", but the blinking light by the console dash where the tow buttom is does not blink to confirm activation of the alarm.

I did a test before activating the alarm. I went ahead and turned the ignition on, had the drivers side window go 3/4 of the way down. I then activated the alarm, waited about 5 minutes and then proceeded to open the drivers door from INSIDE on the handle, that is something that would trigger the alarm but in this case it didn't do anything.

So far in the last hour, no lights have gone on, none of the fog lights, or the the tail lights, and since the alarm did not activate, that hasn't gone crazy yet or on at all for that matter ( even if I press the red button on the remote to activate the alarm, it does nothing ).

Looks to me right now like the only thing I do have working are the locks, they unlock and lock just fine. I did take the car out for a ride about 5 minutes around the neighborhood and it was just fine, brought it back and shut it off, no lights stayed on or alarm light blinking in the console and of course the interior lights still on so I switch it off and it stays off.

It pretty much looks like that Module needs to be replaced and I am glad I at least gave it an honest shot at fixing it my self and of course leak proofing my spoiler wing and plate is an easy $300 that I saved that the Dealer would've charged and now its a matter of finding a Module at a better price than what the dealer quoted and installing it my self will save so much money! by cleaning the pins on the connectors, I was able ( so far ) to accomplish some progress as the fog and tail lights do stay off and the alarm isn't chirping crazy for a solid hour since hookup.

Some may think this could be a solution and it may be since I can lock and unlock by pressing the button on the remote. In essense, every thing works but no active alarm and that is a major concern as I purchased it knowing it had an alarm and I want to make sure it operates with one properly. I also don't want to run a risk where it may go bonkers down the road and I don't want to start ripping that interior panels to get to the part to disconnect so I'm on the lookout for a Locking Central Control Module.

Does anyone have links where I may presently find one for sale?? one that IS in stock, not on back order where I would have to wait. Thanks everyone.

 

You need Mercedes part#170 800 08 48, it's in a post somewhere here.
Don't buy the Chrysler one, it'll be the same but twice the price.

 

Oh yes, I do know this info!! I did read it. I actually made a part request thread I think yesterday where I added the parts #'s and such. I did a couple of PMs to some members here that have parts cars but have not heard anything yet from them, so I'm now on the verge of buying brand new which at least then I know it would have a warranty and a much better chance that it works good than a used one!

Heres the Module Part Request thread: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ol-module.html


Btw, I'm extremely thankful for your replies and knowledge you have brought to my thread. Thank you SO much!

 

I wanted to let you all know that my car is all fixed! Whoo hoo, took some time indeed but shes as happy as a clam now. No more PMSing on me throughout the day. LOL - Thanks so much to all of the responses and help that you all provided. You will never know how grateful I truly am.

One thing I do need though is the white plastic interior panel pieces that is used to snap the interior paneling back into place as my Chrysler tech said that some of them we're "already broke", but I think they probably broke while he was prying off the interior panel as I looked at those little pieces and they're designed in a way that doesn't appear that Chrysler or Mercedes thought that the interior panel would ever need to be taken out so they designed them to "break" if you did try popping the interior panels off, it would happen one way or another, either way, I checked Advance Auto Parts and AutoZone and they do not have them available. Trust me I have throughly checked their inventory for those snap in pieces so if anyone can direct me where I can buy them that would be so great.

Thanks all!

 

Glad you got her fixed! Thanks for keeping us all up-to-date on her repairs. So you went with the new one from MB, was the price crazy? Anyway, hope your girl keeps you out of debt now...

 

I actually found one on Craigslist from a Mercedes Benz that had the same part number, same Module to the tee. Works great and got a real good deal on it. I'm happy but I still need those plastic interior pieces. anyone know part #'s for them?

 

So far I was able to disconnect that module so every thing drives as it should and I was able to leave fuse # 9 in place since the signal won't be operable anymore to that output of the alarm since the module is disconnected. The car can be driven in the mean time and I am now on the look out for a module to buy so I can replace it. I took the foam insert out and will let it dry for a few days and see how that turns out.
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I am facing the same issue. I have spent 2 days reading through the forum. I must say this is an amazing source with very knowledgable and experienced members. My alarm has been going off randomly but I have been able to silence it by unlocking car through key fob. It happens frequently (3-4 times in an hour). Lately, I just unlock the car and leave the key in the ignition (at OFF) so the doors stay unlocked and alarm remains disarmed (car stays parked in locked garage). This has temporarily solved my alarm siren problem. Today I locked the car and 10 minutes later the alarm went off and it was extremely loud as always but key fob could not silence it. It completed it cycle and temporarily silenced itself. The siren was continuous but I could hear strange sounds coming from the siren as if the battery is running out or electricity sound effect. At the moment I have fuse #9 removed and key in ignition to keep car unlocked and alarm disarmed. I have a booking with a dealer in 6 days but I want to keep the alarm from going off. So far fuse#9 and unlocked car have kept it silenced but I am not sure if it is going to keep it off for a week. I know disconnecting the battery will not help.

Right now I am requesting some help as to whether I should remove the Alarm Siren all together or Central Locking Pump Module? Which is an easier job and guarantees no alarm siren? Or fuse 9 removed and car unlocked will keep it off? Any help is appreciated. I am already grateful for all the members who have posted helpful information on this thread.

 

Hey, How did you remove the Central Locking Pump Module? Where is it located in the trunk and how do I reach it?

THANK YOU!

 

I'm not sure about RHD models, but in US it is under the trunk ( boot ) floor mat on the right side wrapped in foam rubber.

 

Today I locked the car and 10 minutes later the alarm went off and it was extremely loud and key fob could not silence it. It completed it cycle and temporarily silenced itself. The siren was continuous but I could hear strange sounds coming from the siren as if the alarm battery is running out (electricity sound effect ). At the moment I have fuse #9 removed and key in ignition to keep car unlocked and alarm disarmed. I want to keep the alarm from going off. So far fuse#9 and unlocked car have kept it silenced but I am not sure if it is going to keep it off for a week. I know disconnecting the battery will not help.

Right now I am requesting some help as to whether I should remove the Alarm Siren all together or Central Locking Pump Module? Which is an easier job and guarantees no alarm siren? Or fuse 9 removed and car unlocked will keep it off? I have ordered replacement parts but they will take 2 weeks. I need to drive for work but need to get rid of the siren. Thank you in advance. I will look for the module in the trunk tomorrow.