First, I must recognize 240 for the introduction of this style manifold for The- 6. Secondly, I must thank Rob for taking this setup a step further. Third, my appreciation to Jerry for dyno tuning me the day before my car went onto a transport carrier, he has the file to share if anyone runs a similar setup.

The overall dyno number (305) is not necessarily the important number. What we (I) look for is the difference throughout band, then the max difference.

 

Thanks for posting the graph. The torque gains at the bottom end are impressive. I have a few questions, if you know the answers. Did you have a tune before the manifolds? It looks like a 3rd gear pull that was ended real early because the torque line never crosses the hp line. Also my car shifts into 4th. around 105 so it looks like you were shutting it down real early. If that's the case you have another 20 hp on top thats not being shown. I need to find my old dyno that was done in MPH to be positive. So you don't feel weak with the high numbers posted by others, my car was around 260 hp stock on a Mustang dyno. Any idea what the AFR's were?

Les

 

My dynos had started earlier and showed significant gains at the bottom, looks like just at 40 MPH for example that there is a terrific gain in grunt - torque. Breathing is everything, it is after all a heat motor and the more heat the more output power. Nice. Woody

correction

 

What brand of dyno is that?
How come they don't show the RPM?

 

It's just excel with a child's squiggly line.
j/k
I like these manifolds, they look so much better visually than the big manifolds. I know they don't flow as well as the big boys, but it's form over function for me

 

I've been eyeing the tweeked manifolds for the same reason. I'd like to keep it stock looking but get a little better airflow. The site says that the stock intake may or may not fit though...

That looks like a 3rd gear pull, based on the MPH. It is best (IMO) to use 4th gear as it is a 1:1 ratio. Nice torque gain though... the low end looks great!

 

Quote:

velociabstract:
Thanks for posting the graph. The torque gains at the bottom end are impressive. I have a few questions, if you know the answers. Did you have a tune before the manifolds? It looks like a 3rd gear pull that was ended real early because the torque line never crosses the hp line. Also my car shifts into 4th. around 105 so it looks like you were shutting it down real early. If that's the case you have another 20 hp on top thats not being shown. I need to find my old dyno that was done in MPH to be positive. So you don't feel weak with the high numbers posted by others, my car was around 260 hp stock on a Mustang dyno. Any idea what the AFR's were?

No problem on posting the graph. Yes, I did have a tune prior to the manifolds. They were 3rd gear pulls but I never gave much thought to the early shut downs, since whats reflected provided me with the information I wanted. I've also been on three different dynos that gave higher numbers than this one. My perspective is the difference throughout the band, not the Max hp, so no worries about the perceived low hp number. My lonely 11.98 pass before the manifolds told me I had a little monster on my hands. I added the other graph with my AFR .

Quote:

waldig:
My dynos had started earlier and showed significant gains at the bottom, looks like just at 40 MPH for example that there is a terrific gain in grunt - torque. Breathing is everything, it is after all a heat motor and the more heat the more output power. Nice. Woody

Get back to installing that rear end Woody, just kidding .

Quote:

tom2112:
What brand of dyno is that?
How come they don't show the RPM?

Car was tuned on the Eurocharged shop dyno, Dynamics. Jerry could have changed how it was reading, not sure why the MPH over RPM but I have enough logs to see whats happening at the different RPM's.

Quote:

Thirteendog:
I like these manifolds, they look so much better visually than the big manifolds. I know they don't flow as well as the big boys, but it's form over function for me

My thoughts exactly.

I still have my stock and SL55 intakes, I could swap them out and tell you if they will fit, let me know.

 

I am by no means an expert... so take this with a grain of salt: your AFR numbers are all messed up. Is that before or after the tune? If it's after, I would ask for a retune.

You're lean from about 62 mph through 90 mph - and very very lean (dangerous?) at 80 mph.

For comparison:
My last dyno run (July 9th, 2011 at Carlisle), my AFR was between 12.17 and 12.85 for the whole run. On another run, he didn't apply full power as soon, and I had high AFR numbers near the beginning (14.02), but they dropped as soon as he put the hammer down. But they didn't drop below 12.00, and hovered in the middle 12's. 12.2 is ideal, but you want a little wiggle room, so mid 12's is good. 11's are bad and 10's are even worse.

 

No, I hear you tom, i appricate the feedback. We noticed a differance during tuning between the graph and my wideband AF gauge. My gauge looks nothing like the graph but I need to look further into that because that graph is ugly. Shortly, I will...

1. replace my sensor
2. replace my gauge
3. get off my @ss and install the Zeitronix Zt-2
4. I may also have the dreaded IC leak, so that needs addressing .

So, I have some trouble shooting to do before I have Jerry remotely update me.

***If anyone has a DashDaq for sale, trade, whatever let me know!***

 

Well, you can't argue with 11.9! My hp keeps climbing all the way to redline so I'm a little confused. But I'm far from 11's. Regardless of the questions and confused observations, congratulations on the improvement.

If you'd like I could post a couple of my Jerry tune graphs for kicks, giggles and general interest.

Les

 

Besides looking little high at the begining, the A/F looks ok to me... of course I'm not an expert either.

 

Thanks Les, be my guess and post them up, this is a learning session!

 

This is after my first Eurocharged tune. I sent it to Jerry and he in a matter of fact manner told me I didn't know how to dyno my car. He was right, but after some tutoring now I do. Anyway, I felt it was way too rich and it was adjusted. Then came the first revision (3 pulls) which I felt was a little too lean. I really don't know what's rich or lean for this car but I wasn't comfortable so I got another revision ..... that I will have to find the dyno chart.

Les

 

Cool! I'm glad you're on top of it. I would hate to see you damage something just because you didn't know (happens to me all the time, LOL). I really hope you don't have an IC leak. That would suck (or in this case blow).

Keep us posted. I hate to hear people going through problems with their cars, but I learn from everyone else as we all go along. Good luck!

 

Do us a favor, Les, and post another thread about how to dyno a Crossfire. We all need to know, because 99% of the dynos I've been to or seen don't know how either, and no one can tell them unless we - the owners - tell them.

The guy at Carlisle had a hard time getting three consistent runs out of my car, and couldn't get Beaner's car to dyno right at all.

 

have to disagree with you here tom. i run 11.8 at wot in 4th gear dyno pull. its always better to run a tad fat at wot than lean. you might get a few more ponies but at a higher risk. theres less air moving thru the intakes at a dyno than at speed in real time driving. mid 12's are fine for spirited driving but if your running wot at the track for instance mid 12's are to lean for a forced induction engine. your sweet spot will be in the 11's with 10 being too rich

 

I was speaking with the tuners at the shop and it was really interesting. For instance, the Nissan GTR's make more power around 10.8. NA Mustangs like 12.8 to 13. For non factory forced induction, generally, they like to see mid 11's for safety. Watching Distant Pulses old bracket racing videos (I can no longer find them) his car was running 12.4 to 12.5 AFR's down the 1/4 mile. I have a data log that was sent to me from an un named Crossfire racer and the WOT AFR's are 12.7 to 12.8. (100 octane tune, I think) So, what's perfect? I don't know but it seems to me that mid 12's are fine for a SRT-6. I'm currently at 12 to 11.8 myself. I sent my latest log to Clint to see what he thinks, I haven't heard back yet but I feel I'm safe at any IAT which I need for how I race my car. I race with 93 octane BTW.

Les

I WANT TWEAKED MANIFOLDS TOO!!

 

Don't let this thread die so quick and easy folks. The new members in 2014 need reference material and I'm interested to hear what others have to add. I know what I have and have seen but a sample group of 1 or 2 is a little thin.

Les

 

With my turbo 3.8 (Grand National) it made a little more power at 12 but timing was being taken out. At 11.5, hp was off only a few (3-4) ponies but no timing was being taken out. We left it at 11.5. If you run 12.5 on one of those with over 20 psi boost, you will be replacing headgaskets. This was 93 pump gas on a cool fall day.

 

Very nice! My car seems to thrive with the A/F in the mid to upper 12's. Of course the car may only peak at 18 psi with just the code-3 pulley, and I have no plans on upgrading any thing else. I'm afraid I may lose power where the car just hauls with just the C3 pulley, tune and cai. No cooling mods either. I'll leave well enough alone, for now anyways.