Who knows of the best price on motor mounts or something to help them from disassembling?

 

There are several threads here on motor mounts... I recall seeing pics of blown vs good... they are liquid filled....

You can do a search on ebay for Crossfire or SLK320/32 and find them....

 

$99/ea at OE
and they are a biatch to change...

 

I would strongly recommend going with OE direct, parts.com or autohauzAZ on this part. Ebay is great for so many things, but in the case of motor mount and other suspension parts, there is a glut of fake German replacement parts sold on Ebay. Inferior quality and disreputable sellers. The worst of which is deutchepartsUSA

I have bought oe quality Motor mounts from AutohauzAZ for about $70 each. If they no longer offer them, I would go through the dealer wholesale network (oedirect or parts.com) and no where esle. This not a part that you want to replace with a cheap copy.


Removing and replacing is not very tough if you have the right tool. You can buy THAT on ebay or make one yourself by cutting the open end off of a 16mm combination wrench (leaving the box end). This makes the tool the correct length. The final touch on the tool is to take the slight bend out of the end of the wrench (making it so it lays flat).

Chris

 

I would really like to see a picture of your special made tool. Thanks..Squirrel Crusher

 

i helped 13dog do his when he had a sr
t-6. worst nitemare ever. took over 8 hrs to finish the job and forget even trying to get any kind of torque other than german torque (gutentight!)
i have a set of old mounts and want to try the poly kit to fill them and forget about replacing them again. its on the growing list of mods to do.

steve

 

here are a couple of pics. On ebay, they have a fancier version that accepts a 3/8 extension for $30, but mine worked fine for me.
Chris

 

Here's a link that SRT6_Roadster provided in the engine & exhaust forum where he tried the 80 polyurethane filled mounts. He seems to like them.

How To Make Universal Motor Mount Inserts

I think my D/S mount is starting to go and considering a poly fill with a set of new mounts......

 

I looked at Ebay a minute ago to see who was selling what, and much to my disgust, deutschepartusa is still listing there junk as oe quality and they have a 99.5 rating. If you have ever purchased anything from these crooks, you will quickly figure out how their rating stays so high. When you complain, they say send it back and then they drag out the refund process encouraging you to hesitate to leave them bad feedback .... Then, when you figure out they are blowing you off and are never going to give you a proper refund ..... it is magically too late to give bad feedback or file a grevience with paypal. These guys wasted tons of my time (on motor mounts that were junk!) and the only reason I got a refund from paypal (since i filed after the deadline) was because I do so much business through them.

I have complained to Ebay about these crooks, but they dont care (since they get their percentage) ... if you have any doubts, check deutschepartsusa's better business rating .... F

I just hope no one else, here, has to waste their time and money with these idiots.

Chris

 

I am happy with the poly mounts. They are a little harsher than the stock liquid filled mounts but are worth it. Not to mention I have been through 4 sets of stock mounts. If you do this be careful the mixture has to be exactly right our it will harden to quickly or not at all.

 

Do you think the 60A poly would feel like "stock" has far as engine flex and idle smoothness - but still provide for a longer engine mount life?

 

of course we know why the driver's side mount is so quick to go ....

When I first started racing, years ago, in a class that did not allow replacing factory motor mounts with solid mounts, we would run a chain from the crossmember to the block on the driver's side to take the brunt of the load on the mount. Perhaps a stainless steel cable strategically placed could protect the mount and keep the ride quality stockish.

Chris

 

Good point Chris. We had to cable down the '69 Z 28 due to a lot of bad motor mounts in the day...it worked. Kept the mount from breaking, held the torque just fine... Small piece of chain bolted to frame to engine will work as well...cable can flex if you don't use large enough cable...

 

I agree that cable can flex , and the old faithful chain may be the ultimate answer. But, on the other hand, a little flex might be a good thing in this instance. As long as you never let the stock mount stretch beyond its yield point ...

I have always been a fan of progressive rate solutions instead infinite rate solutions (cushioned stops instead of solid bump/travel stops).

Chris

 

[QUOTE=MikeR]There are several threads here on motor mounts... I recall seeing pics of blown vs good... they are liquid filled....

You can do a search on ebay for Crossfire or SLK320/32 and find them..



Thanks for the info!

 

Doc, Woody has his 'cabled' down now..... I just saw a pic of it again earlier today when looking for motor mount threads.......
I really should get it done on mine too and maybe save me from having to replace motor mounts for a while......

 

Steve and I have talked about this. I think he is going to try out 60# poly. I debated swapping in a set of 60# mounts but in the end decided it was not worth the time and effort. My shop is the one that decided that 80# was the best choice based on their research of the amount of torque these cars are putting down.

Throttle response seems much better with the poly mounts and everything seems more connected.

I am sure the 60# will be fine. Worst case scenario you have the old set of motor mounts you can fill with 80# if you don't like the 60# setup.

My advice is practice mixing the poly in a cup, water bottle, or something you don't care about. Better to mess up in a practice container than to have an issue when working on the mount.

 

with the massive torque the wifes car puts down she was breaking passenger side motor mount about once a month, after the 4th time i had to chain it down. she still runs stock rubber but is limited to 1" raise.

 

Thanks for the update. Maybe I'll go the other way around and fill my current mounts (if they're not shot) with the 80# poly. If it works and I like the ride - then one and done.

If it's too harsh (since I don't DR or AX) I'll just buy a new set of mounts and go with the 60#.

Would like to hear what Steve thinks of the 60#.

 

I am reading this because I have long been worried about my motor mounts and wondering when I would need new one. Right now they seem fine but they are original and I have 92,000 miles on them. When I rev my engine in park my whole car jumps with the torque of the V8. People think it is cool to see a Crossfire do that, but my days with the original V6 mounts must be numbered. Is there any advantage using some meant for a V8?

BTW, Doc, I used to use Lakewood semi solid mounts on my '69 Mustang drag car. They look like stock mount but have a huge bolt going through them. they act like stock mounts at idle and turn into solid mounts as soon as you nail the gas. I liked this better than true solids or a chain.