OK so I suspected my I/C pump was shot, bought a new pump and installed it. then I discovered that the fuse was blown. replaced fuse - blew as soon as rpm's went over 2k. I didn't have another 10A so I used a 15A, that blew at 2k rpm also. replaced pump with a stock(bosch) pump, same problem. pump appears to drawing in excess of 15A. tried a 20A just to test it does not blow. do I have a short? or is it possible the I/C H/E is clogged?

 

You have an excessive current draw, the new pump may demand additional current power, that popped the fuse. I would follow more of the issue as 20 amps will cook the wiring over time. My better pump draws nothing like 20 amps, so I have to ask is there any mechanical stress or clamping forces on the pump that could be binding the impeller or rotor. As a diagnostic, I would disconnect the pump and try running it dry fer a minute with a 5 amp fuse to see that it runs without killing the fuse; if not then there is a pump issue.

BTW if the flow is restricted it will draw more power than if it has free flow. WOODY[/B][/B]

 

You can also disconnect the wires to the pump and rev up the motor. If it still blows a fuse, then you have a short to ground in your wiring.

 

I "bench tested" the pump prior to installation and it spun free and easy. I'll try "running it dry" this evening. I'm thinking I may have a "general" electrical issue because my cigarette lighter blows fuses too.

 

yep, you have a short somewhere...time to start tracing wires...to see what has happened...have you done any installations or wiring lately

 

I have not done any wiring, however. the PO apparently did. I have a small toggle switch below the steering column that is not labelled. It routes under the console to the shifter assembly and disappears. I've switched it on and off trying to figure out what it is supposed to be for, but so far it seems to have no affect on anything. I'm going to have to dig into that I guess. I was reluctant to "tear apart" the console.

 

I discovered that the pump head was binding and thus "loading up" and blowing the fuse. If I push the outlet away from the frame I can hear the pump spin up. I wedged a block of wood between the frame and pump head and the pump is working. Of course I'll replace the pump ASAP. but at least I know it's not electrical!!

 

Binding? What am I missing, please explain.
What changed, presumably it was all OK 'till now.
Chalk another one up to Woody.
The spare Johnson I have says 26W, that's a little over 2 amp, no load.