Shortly after having gotten a EC S/C pulley, ecu tune, and tcu tune, I have been having a seriously rough idle and lose of power. This problem does not happen right away, but only after driving for a little while then coming to a complete stop. When this is happening I get almost zero throttle response and have a hard time getting from 0 to 40. The misfire will happen badly some times and some times it will stop completly. The check engine light will go off and it will drive fine. I have put nearly 1200 miles on the car since the last time this happened. Originally I thought it might have been just bad gas because after limping it home it stoped and has been fine since then, also there is no white smoke coming from the pipes. I figure the rough idle/ misefire could be anything from bad plugs to even worse "especially for this car" a cracked piston. I'm not sure due to the off and on nature of the problem. The problem just started back up and the car barely moves when its like this.

If any body with similar mods has had this problem your insight will be greatly appreciated. Or any one who has any suggestions period their input will also be greatly appreciated.

PLEASE HELP !!!

 

Sounds like "limp mode". I haven't experienced it yet but a lot of other guys have and there have been a lot of conversations about it. Do a search for "limp" or "limp mode", see if you can find some others with the same symptoms. No fun for sure but hopefully it'll be a cheap and easy fix.

 

Thank you, I have read through some other threads and many of the problems do seem similar. The only thing I have not been seeing as a common symptom is the violent shake that the engine gives off at idle. I mean the car looks like it has parkinson's disease. All jokes aside is this a symptom of limp mode?

 

You should try the RCM repair and install a new Bosch cps to rule out these common problems.

 

I would look for low vacuum and IMO its the gasket under the TB next to the SC. Use a piece of garden like hose to help locate it with your ears. Woody

 

is your coolant level still full?

 

I just got out of the shop they didn't know what was wrong they read the code it just says misfire. They disconnected the battery, and that worked until I got about a mile up the road and I got the misfire again. How are the pistons on this car are the stock pistons known to be able to take the extra boost? If not the misfire could be the piston. Although I don't know if a cracked piston would just stop like it did. Or if it would rev like has been in nutural.

But I will try searching for the leak, and until then still open to any and all ideas or suggestions. Thanks yall.

 

If you've encountered this right after your tune, you might just need to reseat your ECU and/or TCU (If you had to send them out). Sometimes, once they've been removed, getting them back it could take a little finesse.

 

If I was reading this on my Jeep forum I'd tell you to pull the plugs, as these are the signs of damaged plugs from damaged ringlands. This isn't the Jeep forum, but I recommend you check the gap on all your plugs. Also, you should be running a step colder with a smaller gap (.035) due to the higher boost.

 

I checked the coolant and its good, and I did have the TCU sent out but the ECU was done remotely. It could be a plug issue. Since I could not find any posts about cracked pistons on this car I have little go off there. (but it would be much better if it were plugs for me) The guy who had the car before me had an aftermarket intercooler put on, and I told the guy at EC who did the remote tune that when he did it. Im really worried that it may be the piston, since I can't find anything on it and can't find a rebuild kit for this engine. If anyone has had or heard of the pistons not being able to take the extra boost resulting in a cracked or blown or broken piston or rings please let me know.

 

They easily handle the boost, but no automotive engine likes being run lean.

 

Thanks, thats good to know because I havent run it past 75 in months after a nice little speeding ticket I got log before the problem started. So I don't think I have been runing to hard. Which gives me cause to look at other possiblities more closely. Since the symptoms of a cracked piston aren't blatant it makes more since for it to be somthing like a vac leak or plugs, but until I'm sure I'll just try evrything and anything you guys can suggest.
~ cuz I love this car and hate to see the engine shack and jutter like it has~

 

If you haven't been beating on it, then my money is on the CPS or vacuum leak.

John's car would spit and sputter when his CPS went out. Don't buy a cheap one from ebay or an autoparts store either, as they seem to not fix the problem. I recommend buying the sensor at a Mercedes or Chrysler dealership or equivalent.

 

I'll try new plugs and maybe wires then CPS. If that doesn't work God please save my sixx

 

The guys on here are going to scream at me for saying this, but here goes.

When I was having engine trouble with a Ford Escape and couldn't diagnose it myself, I brought it to a Ford dealership to diagnose. Their quote for the work was over $700, as indicated on their itemized quote. I told them I couldn't afford the repairs at that time, but that I'd be back. I paid them the $90 diagnostic fee and left a happy man.

So, for $90 I found out I needed coil packs and a specific vacuum line that I would have never found.

I then went online and ordered new plugs, coils packs, and the vacuum line specified on the quote. For under $150 I purchased all the parts and installed them myself.

Just food for thought.

 

^^^This is my guess^^^

 

If your loosing coolant from your jug with missfires,it's your intercooler dripping and sucking coolant into your combustion chamber. If your not loosing coolant and the engine missfires while occasionally cutting off,it's your CPS. If you've install a 185 crank pulley and engine missfires or briefly quits running at top end,you need a fuel system upgrade and wideband. That's been my experience anyway. Squirrel Crusher

 

Got in there less than hour ago and the plugs where all wet. So I'm going to get some new ones and wires. I hope this might be the problem, and does not lead to others I'll take it to the shop in the morning. I have no idea why they would be wet so I hope this leads me to the cause of the shake and jutter at the light. But again any suggestions and options will be tried

 

While you're buying new plugs, higher boost wants 1 step cooler and a smaller gap (.035 IMHO). But you could always just buy some cheap copper plugs for now, and get some good ones later. By the way, did the plugs resemble any in this chart? Did you check the gaps on the old plugs?

 

No did'nt check the gaps on the old one's, but will at the crack of dawn. Also not sure what they looked like in good light because it was so dark, but thanks will do in the morning.