I went thru all of the detail posts, and cant find anything on the actual cleaning of top. My specific question is what to do about the shiney spots left on the top by it being put down and put back up. Im assuming that the shiney spots are a result of the top being folded onto itself and rubbing. Is thee anything in the cleaning process that dakes those spots out. Anyone had this problem, and results to removing this. Thanks Guys,
Dave

 

My car is, like many, about 7 years old and it's top is down a LOT.

I don't have a problem with "Shiny Spots", I DO see some creases and such, but if I leave the top up for a few days - they go away.

 

I also keep my top down alot with the twins, and also notice the creases, but do not have any shinny spots? After a wash I do "brush" down the top to make sure that most lint and small particles are gone. I was wondering if putting on a water repelent would be good? Otherwise my top is inside protected from heavy sun and such...for I love driving top down.

KJ

 

I use what is call 303 for rag tops ,it will help renew the top ,

 

I have the "shiny" spots on mine as well. I bought RaggTopp cleaner and fabric protector and cleaned/ conditioned it last week. The tops looks good and it seems to have lessened the shiny spots but they are still noticeable in the sun. I just bought the car and have been going through detailing it, so I'll keep at the top and hopefully over time properly cleaning it, it will become "renewed".

Cleaning the top: Following the instructions on the bottle, I wet the top, sprayed on the cleaner, worked it in really well with a sponge (circular scrubbing motion first, then brushed it front to rear like the owners manual suggests), hosed it clean, let it completely dry overnight in the garage.
Fabric Protection: The next day I took old sheets and put down the windows, popped the front and rear of the top and secured the sheets under the top and over the windows and top of the windshield and closed up everything to protect the paint and glass from overspray. I then sprayed down the top with the protector per the instructions (three coats for first application). Make sure to wipe off the rear window (or anything that is not the top that got some on it) between coats b/c the fabric protector is greasy when wet and might not come off the window easily when dry. Let it completely dry (says 48hrs) and water should then bead up on it when it gets wet. I finished by running a lint roller over it to get all the loose lint off.

Good Luck!

 

Thanks everyone, I will have to clean and treat mine. Im not sure how to post Pics on here, but was wanting to show off the vents I installed in my hood. They are off of a 1975 TOYOTA Celica. soon as I figure it out, i will post Pics,
Dave

 

The last time it rained, the repellant worked OK...for a few minutes...looked like the 303 got all washed off! Might reapply, see what happens...

 

when putting on the 303 use a paint brush to work the 303 into the top and make sure you let dry in the warm sun . I have used rag top before but it not last very long ,

 

I used a sponge last time, but it wasn't that hot...what size brush do you suggest, 1-1/2 inch?

 

Ya that well do as long as it new or clean brush , do everthing the box tell you to do and will come just fine

 

I used the 303 about a year ago, turn out great. just do what the box says. My top looks like it did when it was new and still does.

 

To each their own, I suppose. I was not impressed with the 303 stuff at all and found the Ragg Topp to be far, far superior. Go figure.

 

Where does one find Ragg Topp?

 

Maybe i need to try it again next time around , Thought i did pretty good job with Ragg top last time oh well like you said to each their own

 

I found the RaggTopp Cleaner/ Fabric protector package on ebay for about $35 shipped.

 

When I bought my roadster, I also purchased a paint and interior protection treatment from the dealer (even though I 1/2 suspected it was a rip off), but the car still looks great and the top looks new, except for the side creases. I don't think there is any way to avoid the creases when the top is down May-Nov. After storing it top up for the winter, they are much less visible. I occasionally wash the top with a good quality car wash, rinse real well, and when dry run a sticky lint roller over it to pick up the stuff that always seems to remain behind. I guess 7 years of garage and cover is the best defense against a rotten covertible top. And her skin is still baby butt smooth.

 

I used the 303 top care kit ( cleaner and water proofer) once. It seems to decrese the creases in the sides. Top still looks new after 6 years. No fading etc.

 

It looks like 303 and Raggtop are the top cover protectants. My Crossfire lives outside (I know), and in AZ (I know, I know), and I keep a high-end cover on it most times ... but it's still AZ. Which product would offer the highest UV protection for the top? AZ sun will destroy just about anything with enough time. Opinions?

 

I also vacuum the top with my shop vac. It is surprizing how much junk is in the fabric just sitting in the garage.

 

dtinker
That is the key, vacuuming, the top before washing it, to remove all of the dirt before water/soap hits the canvas material. If washing takes place first, it will grind the dirt into the canvas material.
I used the 303 protectant on my dark blue canvas top on my 2002 Sebring Limited for 5 years before I sold it and the new owner was shocked it was the original.
I also used a hair dryer/blower (hot setting) at about 6-8 inches away from the material to take out the wrinkles, during cloudy days.
Just my 2 cents....
Dennis
DTMenace