Intake
Recently I've cut up some aluminum pieces and put it together. Seems to work out pretty well so far, and no welding! I just may have them powder coated next...Been playing around with various types the past year.
Originally Posted by Mimi05SRT6
Recently I've cut up some aluminum pieces and put it together. Seems to work out pretty well so far, and no welding! I just may have them powder coated next...Been playing around with various types the past year.


Last edited by Airscape; Sep 29, 2009 at 04:50 PM.
I thought that the air was traveling so fast through the tube(s) that it would not have a chance to get hot. Seems like I remember reading somewhere in here that the air is traveling at around 120 mph through the CAI. Maybe I am wrong... won't be the first time.
theres a couple folks on the mb forums that wrapped their intake tubes with heat tape. not sure if it helps but looks cool. for approx 25$ couldnt hurt. for the s/c crowd the cooling seems to behelped from wrapping the bottom of the s/c and engine valley with heat insulation tape
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
were are you getting your aluminium from? whats the wall thickness?
Last edited by Mimi05SRT6; Sep 29, 2009 at 06:46 PM.
I can attest to the difference between carbon fiber and the plastic of the factory airbox.
The Renntech box I have after driving for a long period is just barely warm and the kevlar intake tubes are actually cool to the touch, CRAZY. The factory airbox after only a 20 min drive is already too hot to almost touch as well as the plastic tubes. big difference in heat.
The Renntech box I have after driving for a long period is just barely warm and the kevlar intake tubes are actually cool to the touch, CRAZY. The factory airbox after only a 20 min drive is already too hot to almost touch as well as the plastic tubes. big difference in heat.
Originally Posted by MAYAman
I can attest to the difference between carbon fiber and the plastic of the factory airbox.
The Renntech box I have after driving for a long period is just barely warm and the kevlar intake tubes are actually cool to the touch, CRAZY. The factory airbox after only a 20 min drive is already too hot to almost touch as well as the plastic tubes. big difference in heat.
The Renntech box I have after driving for a long period is just barely warm and the kevlar intake tubes are actually cool to the touch, CRAZY. The factory airbox after only a 20 min drive is already too hot to almost touch as well as the plastic tubes. big difference in heat.
Originally Posted by 94Bravada
does anyone know if kevlar or carbon fiber is better with the heat?
Originally Posted by 94Bravada
does anyone know if kevlar or carbon fiber is better with the heat?
Haha it probably won't look that great at all I was just thinking of making a single tube kinda like the other homemade ones I just kinds figures with the money I was saving I would use the best materails I could buy a 4 foot section of carbon fiber that's 3" for around 280 I would probably just use those rubber like boots to put it all together
Last edited by 94Bravada; Sep 30, 2009 at 10:11 AM.
Remember that metal pipes are going to conduct heat. If it is hotter outside the pipe then inside the pipe - insulate. If it is the other way around - do not. All of that metal is helping to heat up your intake charge.
That said, the general rule of thumb is that every 10 degrees Fahrenheit increase in air temp costs you approximately 1% at the crank. So it isn't the end of the world but there is SOME benefit to keeping things as cool as possible.
There are a variety of heat insulating wraps available but the best look I have found (and what I use on my Rotrex kit for the spyder) are lengths of silicone hose. I buy the same material as the couplers in 40" lengths and use it to insulate pipes.
You could use a piece of silicone hose starting from the plastic flex pipe all the way back and in between your connecting hoses. Then your intake would look like one long, continous piece of silicone hose (all the same color) except for a few clamps breaking it up and be fully insulated.
I can put you onto a good source if you are interested.
That said, the general rule of thumb is that every 10 degrees Fahrenheit increase in air temp costs you approximately 1% at the crank. So it isn't the end of the world but there is SOME benefit to keeping things as cool as possible.
There are a variety of heat insulating wraps available but the best look I have found (and what I use on my Rotrex kit for the spyder) are lengths of silicone hose. I buy the same material as the couplers in 40" lengths and use it to insulate pipes.
You could use a piece of silicone hose starting from the plastic flex pipe all the way back and in between your connecting hoses. Then your intake would look like one long, continous piece of silicone hose (all the same color) except for a few clamps breaking it up and be fully insulated.
I can put you onto a good source if you are interested.
Originally Posted by Web 3.0
You could use a piece of silicone hose starting from the plastic flex pipe all the way back and in between your connecting hoses. Then your intake would look like one long, continous piece of silicone hose (all the same color) except for a few clamps breaking it up and be fully insulated.
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