My turn. My daughter's car recently died when she was pulling up to a stop sign. She lost all power and called me and said her car quit on her. I finally got to it two hours later and it started right up. I took it to the dealer and they indicated there were no codes showing. I replaced the fuel filter and air filter at that time and drove the car and everything appeared to drive normally. However, since then my daughter is telling me that the car when at lower RPMs the engine has started shaking and that she has to pump the accelerator to get it to come back. She says that it feel like the car is going to die when she is coming up to a stop sign and is braking. It is happening intermittently. So does this sound like a crank position sensor or something else?

Thanks for the help.
XFIRE972

 

I would guess something else, as I have never heard of the CPM going bad without throwing a code. I could be wrong here. I am sure someone will correct me on this. The most common code would be PO335.

 

it won't throw a code right away....so, it could just be starting to let you know....they are cheap...around $35....and if it doesn't fix it, well, you didn't waste your money, because they go bad sooner or later....10 minute fix....

 

Yes, it could be a ten minute job, but, only after you've done one. I had one in my glove box when my car died going into my mother-in-law's driveway. Car would not restart and no check engine light. (2004 with 28K miles)

Later, car started and I was lucky to drive it home without it dying. The next day I read up on the forum and looked at pictures of how to do it. Well it took me over 30 minutes to figure out how to remove the electrical connection (my hand is still healing from cutting it up on the small heat shield surrounding the CPS). Well the release clip turned out to be HIGH up on the connector, not lower,where I had been feeling for it.

After that, I remembered Ole Doc had said it was an E-Torx number 8 socket that was needed to fit the bolt, so I went to Harbor Freight and got a nice set for $7! With much care and finesse I got a rachet and extentions with swivel to fit onto the bolt head and turned it out. More cutting and pulling and twisting and I pulled it out. Finally, I got the new one in and tightened the bolt. Total time was about 2 hours.

Yes, now I could probably do one in about 10-15 minutes, but halfway through the job, I seriously wished I had paid a professional mechanic $50 to do the job.

 

It is always a good idea to give the mileage of the car.

 

it's only a 10 minute fix if you read about my failure and yours....lol.... I wonder if it fixed it...it's been a few weeks...or if the module was the problem....I hate it when they don't report back...lol....

 

Mine didn't throw the code (and it happened three times before I decided to see what was up).

Mine took about an hour. The E8 socket wasn't necessary (was too big to reach the sensor anyway), so I used an 8mm socket on a flexible shaft. The part was $125 from NAPA, but I know you can get them for ~$80 if you look hard enough.

 

I had those exact same symptoms about a week ago and no codes either, I bought the part from autozone for about 60 dollars and was going to install it myself and then realized I had no clue how to get to it. Took it to my mechanic and he took care of it along with the leaky trans issue and it runs alot better now. No shaky idle and no more worries of it stalling on me.