I decided to do some maintenance on my car today, normal stuff. New down pipe gaskets, clean the air filters, put new upper intake manifold gaskets on. I suspected they were leaking because the car started bogging slightly under gentle throttle application. Got it apart and sure enough they were gone. Went to put it back together and the gaskets I have are the wrong ones. Dumb and dumber on me ...... mega fail. So I sent Rob a S.O.S. I hope he doesn't have to work today ...... but I hope he's working because I'm in a pickle! Anyway, this is what the gaskets look like when the screws back out, you discover the loose screws and re torque with locktite after the damage is done.

Les

 

How many "pampered by Les' miles do you have on the car?

 

I'm close to 9,000 now! I'm getting real good at working on it too. A "in the near future" project is changing the transmission fluid. I know it's got to be getting real hot with the racing so I want to be safe instead of sorry. And while it's apart ....... blue solenoids maybe? I still haven't decided one way or another.

Rob hasn't responded to my S.O.S. yet, I think he's home with his family where he should be today.

Les

 

Can't you find some gasket material and make your own? That looks like that cork/rubber compound, buy a sheet of the correct thickness and cut with a sharp pointy Xacto knife after sticking it to the face with that tacky spray. The shape you get will be an exact fit. Plus you will be on the road tomorrow, today if you get your a$$ in gear.

 

Looks like simple cork gasket and the damage is due to the material primarily. I would recommend you go to your nearest auto parts store (Napa, etc.) that carries various gasket material in sheets and MAKE a new set.

I would also recommend something more hardy than cork. With the heat damage I'm seeing here a composite gasket material like that used for headers (white almost plastic feel) would be best. Just something that can take more heat while torqued down properly.

If you can't find the gasket material, you can get by with ULTRA COPPER Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker from Permatex (Part # 81878). They have a spray on type, but it's probably not good for this application.

Make a nice bead about 1/8" thick and let it set up for at least 10 minutes, preferrably 15 to get tacky, then set the part in place gently. Let it set up for an hour, then torque half way. Let it cure the full 24 hours and torque to specifications. This should get you by until you can get better gasket material.

Good luck!

 

I failed art class and my hands shake unless I'm careening around a race track. I considered doing what you suggest but I promised myself I'd spend lots of time this weekend with my woman. She's starting to introduce herself as the Crossfire widow.

Les

 

Get her involved, have her trace and cut the new gasket for you. If she's artsy at all she'll love helping you. AND you can do it together.

 

Don't mess around with leaky siliconed up gaskets. Once things start getting torqued unevenly and lose there flatness, sealing will really be a challenge.

 

That is so true, you know what they say, a couple that traces together races together.
Of course you'll need another car.

 

I did not say put silicone or any sealant on that destroyed gasket he has. I said MAKE A NEW one with the sealant. I've done it many times with NO leaks at all.

Use the method I put there and you WILL have a solid gasket. Just give the sealant time to skin properly and then cure with an even thickness with the part in place. You can even just let the part sit, untorqued for 24 hours to get an even thicker gasket.

 

Believe it or not Rob already has gaskets in the mail to me. But in the interest of future art students and gasket makers ...... are any of these suitable? I went digging in my late 80's early 90's archives.

Les

 

That material is probably fine. Just make sure to match the thickness of an undamaged or compressed portion of the old gasket if you have a small corner to compare.

Either that or you must know the thickness of the OEM gasket.

 

Les, as hard as you run, I'd say this should be a weekly check. I still check mine before I go anywhere to play. Leaking intakes, spell lean....and that would hurt. Good luck my friend. Rob, is always on the ball. No one like him. Everyone should do business with him. He definitely looks out for you...

 

I check the bolt tightness at the track before every race, thats how I caught the loosening problem a long time ago. I think where I went wrong was the last time I had the manifolds off (yes new gaskets always) using the locktite and not letting it dry before driving the car because they backed all the way out. That was a month ago. I won't do it that way again. I also took the manifolds off to check to see if I was getting coolant into the manifolds. I didn't see any signs of it, thank goodness.

Les

 

That would probably do it...just remember, you are on it, high r's all thru course...need to keep her tight...glad I have the tune on the coupe, as I was able to go for a ride today, and keep her up there for some sustained speeds. Man, that tune made this car come alive...it was feeling good before, compared to the roadster, but it will now surpass the roadster...it just cruises at 80, no labor or effort at all...just touch on the throttle...ready for a roadtrip now...lol

 

I put mine back together using the old gasket and put RTV around the edge off the gasket just to hold it in place. After it cured it seems to be working fine. I did buy a new gasket later at a MB dealer off I-45 North for $13.39. Besure to do the Throttle reset. Idles very smooth now. Going to get Jerry at Eurocharged to do a re-dyno tune since I have added 74mmTB and K&Ns. If I take the TB off again for any reason I am sure the gasket will have to be replaced. I would also suggest you feel up past the throttle plate where the two parts go together to make sure the two are aligned top to bottom. There is a lot of room for the two parts to be misaligned due to the bolt lineup, the holes are larger than they need to be.

 

Hi dave. How can you aligned the parts in bold lineup? Thanks for your information.

 

You need to make sure the two parts line up, you can push open the Throttle plate and feel the bore of the two parts and make sure they are lined up. run you finger nail on the edge, if they are not smooth where the two pieces mate up, raise the
TB up until it is flush.

 

I would move the throttle plate very slowly when doing this as the little electric motor is turned and as there is a compound gear train involved, the motor ends up turning quite rapidly for very little movement of the throttle plate. This puts a heavy load on the small gears, the gear train is why there is throttle lag, as the motor has to spin rapidly and move the throttle plate very little each rev.
Yanking rapidly on the throttle plate could strip a gear.

 

Yes, you just want to push it open enough to insert your finger to feel the alignment of the two parts where the TB connects to the flange.