Yesterday Gunny and I posted about a noisy alternator. This is what is happening since.

A short while after replacing the alternator with a brand new one (not refurbished), my batterly light now comes on indicating what? The manual says belt problem? Everything is working GREAT, but that light is on. It came on briefly yesterday, but went out. Still out this morning when I took her for a drive. Came back on and stayed on.

Ideas?
Thanks!
Cissy & Gunny

 

Deleted.
Sorry I came upon your earlier post on the idler pulley thread.

 

Thank you! I was afraid that the new reply being under Idler Pulley, that no one would see the new problem. ANyway....

Auto Zones in California do not do those tests and certainly not for free. Would't yo know it?

Gunny checked the alt w/o running. He's now checking with running. Will get back to you with results. There is a lifetime quaranted on this alternator.

Update: 12.2 w/o running and 11.7 with running. That doesn't sound right? Does this sound like alternator not putting out?

 

For sure it does, should be in the 14's when running. I'll check that figure though and a fully charged battery should be in the high 12's.

 

Yah, pretty much what Gunny said. Around 14 if alternator putting out what it should. Right now, he's got her up on ramps to double check stuff. We may need to take alt to Auto zone and exchange ::sigh::

Back with an update soon!
Thanks!

 

I just checked my Battery (OEM White one), the other day with a voltmeter:

Fully charged not running, it was 12.7 volts.

Running at idle, original alternator, it was 14.3 volts...

Sure looks like your alternator is not regulating to the correct voltage...

 

Your alternator is making some power, not enough. I believe the regulator in internal. You need to check the leads to see they are tight, remove and reinstall, battery disconnected though. It sounds like a single phase of the alternator is working and thats not going to get it.

Confirm the regulator connector as well as the power out lead. Woody, let us know.

 

Gunny has the alternator out, going to take it back to Auto Zone where they can test it as well. If it tests good, we'll take it from there. I am sure he checked the leads/wiriing. We'll know soon enough.

I will post bck!

 

The regulator is actually just screwed to the back of the alternator and covered with a plastic shroud.
Maybe it is a faulty one, it can be replaced separately to the alternator or generator as the repair manual calls it.

You will be an expert in removing the alternator in record time soon.

 

He is an expert by now!! LOL. It was the new alternator. Failed 2 out of 3 tests. Long story short, he got another one, installed it......so far, so good!

Thank you all so much for your help and helpful suggestions. This forum has always been awesome!!! We learned a lot........that a brand new alternator can be faulty. It's only a machine made by human

Thank YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

One more thing I would check to be sure you are in the clear. Have your battery load tested. If you replaced the original alt for a no charge condition, then your new one fell the same way, be sure your battery is not defective causing the alt to go full field and burn out. Yes the new alt could have been defective or weak. I would suggest you get the battery tested to be on the safe side. I didn't read what year you have and if it is orginal battery.

James

PS Most anytime the voltage drops on the battery when engine running, the alt is putting out nothing. The voltage drop is due to the load from the electronics to make the engine run.

 

Thank you but the original problem was a noisy alternator not output problem. The new alti was quiet but failed at output. We do know battery is good although original in a 2005!

All is well (so far)

 

Cissy, trust the guy with the weird name-he's right. The OEM batteries die slowly, and cause all sorts of problems along the way-and it can be frustrating.

 

+1 Get a new battery as you are living on the edge of more problems. A new battery is cheap compared to the frustrations you will have soon.

 

Oh I do trust all of you guys. This particular problem was due to bad bearing in the OEM alternator. I've had the battery long enough, I know I need to get a replacement ASAP.

Do you all suggest from the dealer? (god, I hope not) or a diehard for the Crossfire? Any such thing for our cars? I'll take your answer off the air

 

I have always recommended Interstate batteries for years. Many other brands will work as well. I used Interstate MPT-91. It is a bit smaller than OEM, but fits fine. Interstate has one that is exact physical size, but costs more and has less power. You decide.

James

 

James is spot-on. But I went with a $65 Walmart/Sams size 48R. Fits/works. Even comes with the red terminal cover.

 

Your choice on brand but make sure it is no more than three or four months old. There is a date on the case and it is molded in, any sticker will be the last time it was recharged and you want one newer than that. Some batteries sit on the shelf for a year, these batteries are often put on sale just to get rid of them. Go to a high volume seller.

 

Thank you, James, Max, and One Hundred80 for great advice for the battery replacement. I am writing this stuff down.

Have a fantastic week!!!! DD

charged up Cis ;D

 

Get a new Battery. Do this anytime the Alternator is shot even if the voltage across the battery polls seem normal. It's the amperage that counts, not the voltage!