I have done a search and could find nothing on inject of Water/alcohol, except that no one thought it would be worth the cost. Lots of info on the SRT6 and how good it worked.
Someone noted that he NA would only get 1HP/3 degree drop in temp. I have the Ultra Gauge and in the summer here in S.Tx., the temp on that sensor show 120-145degrees. These kits, some cost $400 or so, may be marginal, but if I can find someone that wants to get rid of one, might be worth the cost.
Dropping the temp 21 degrees adds 7 hp, which is not wonderful, but not bad either. 7 hp for a couple of hundred $.
Well what do you guys think?

 

I think, for the $$$, there are more effective mods to do.

I'd recommend the thermal-coating, BUT the manifold would have to be baked for the thermal coat to cure, and there are rubber seals/components in there that would melt. I talked to Rob personally about this over a year ago, as I live in a very warm area of the county. But he advised against the thermal-coating. For $50 and some elbow grease, you could pull the intake mani and wrap the bottom in DEI gold foil, to shield the manifold from the heat within the "V" of the motor.

Combined with a thermal-coated NW single, that's about the coolest air you could ingest, and there are no reservoirs to fill up, no special finicky tunes needed. You'd probably be 10° above ambient with this setup, as there is no supercharger to heat up the air in its short trip to the manifold. Someone did some calcs on here and determined that it takes less than one second for the air to go from filter to cylinder when the car is running... that's not a lot of time to heat up the air.

You could even run the larger X-Stream filter Needswings offers and pick up a few additional CFM with the single.

 

I put a thermal wrap( alunimum foilheat barrier good for 1000degrees) on the alunimum air intake tubes. It dropped the temp quite a bit. I was going to buy a thicker heat barrier mat to put on the underside of the air box ( stock), It should drop and keep heat from the V getting to the air box. I was also thinking of cleaning the actual intake manifold and coating it with a ceramic paint that has glass bead in it to drop heat there. I want to leave the maifold on the car clean and tape it up like for paint and put the coating on. The paint and mat would cost about $150. don't want to get crazy with this ,but just looking for ways to get the RWHP up to about 240-250Hp, at 211 now, so need about 30hp.
I would love to add the turbo kit but that is out for me at this time due to being out of a job, I can do small things though.
Any ideas are appreciated.

 

So we're on the same page, I need to know some things about your intake setup... you mention in your sig a homemade 2.75" Dual CAI, however you mentioned heat wrap on the stock airboxes, and I see K&N's listed in your sig as well.

The stock airbox is extremely restrictive. Highly recommend a replacement with a single Needswings, if $$$ permits. He can thermal-coat the outside, acts the same as heat wrap but is a much cleaner look.

As for painting the top of the intake manifold with the ceramic paint, the top isn't the biggest issue -- it's the bottom 75% of the helical intake, which is neatly tucked into the V of the engine, between the heads. Virtually no airflow goes through here and the IATs suffer as a result.

Sadly, removal is the only option but it shouldn't be too much of a pain... just time-consuming.

You won't receive neck-snapping gains from any of these mods, but longevity will increase and the motor will certainly breathe easier. Your 250 RWHP goal means you'd be making ~295 flywheel horsepower based on 18% drivetrain loss. A rather lofty number for the n/a M112 unless you're running a 50-75 wet-shot. There simply isn't much response from this motor in n/a form once you get past basic intake/tune mods...

With C320 intake, Eurocharged tune and exhaust mods, my six-speed Limited ran a best of 14.8. The gearing of the 6MT is horrible for 1/4 mile use... but quite fun on the road course.

 

No real gains to be had here unless you have a way to increase spark advance. The real benefit from this type of system is the ability to increase knock resistance. Since you are not knock constrained in any way with an NA nor is the NA programmed for maximum spark and leaning heavily on the knock sensor to jeep things stable, it wouldn't net you anything measurable.

 

I have a single NW CAI with a large K&N cone and 74mm TB.
In the summer, if OAT is 90 or better, I get around 16-20 degrees IAT over ambient when cruising at 60.
If OAT is below 80, I see 10-12 diff.
If OAT below 50 - the diff is only about 3-6 degrees.
If below freezing, I have seen IAT less that OAT, haven't figured that one out.

( measurements with dash OAT readout and UltraGuage IAT )