Yes it would work.

 

Awesome, guess I'll have to get on this when I get back to the states.

 

You'll just go through clutches like crazy... lol Unless you modify a Spec. The 3.7l SRT is the way I wanted to go with my spare motor but to do it I need the 55 amg pistons and those are the big bucks. Not worth the cost IMO. If you did it to the NA though you have more of a chance of it not costing the same as 2 crossfire's.

 

I just said goodbye to the V8 Crossfire. It is now on its way to AZ. the new onwer, (CalHusky on here) seemed to really like the car. He has some neat plans for the car which I am sure he will share on here.

 

i can buy it from him when hes done with her! im in AZ!

 

Well, it think it will not work for long, because of the torque. The Crossfire MT can handle a max. of 400 Nm. If you go over this number it's only a matter of time till it breaks. The Kleemann 3.7 has 525 Nm. So i wouldn't recommend a combination with a MT. The NAG 722.6 AT transmission can handle up to 900 Nm (when it's modified) and 560 Nm if you modify the W5A330 to W5A560 SRT6 standards . If you combine that with a AMG speed shift TCU and paddles, you'll have a much better fast shifting and durable solution.

Regards
Markus

 

Yeah, but who wants an auto?? Paddles are nothing, at all, like a good manual stick. Still, if the MT won't hold up...I guess its auto or find a way to make a better manual work.

 

Yes but you won't find a Mercedes MT that fits more torque and will fit seamlessly to the MT. So you have to change the whole engine and power train combination. And you'll have to find one that fits. And most of the Crossfire drivers don't have the passion to do that. So maybe it's easier to buy an other car.

 

Yeah I've started to notice the costs and as much as I love my Crossfire. I may just end up getting an M3 when I get back to the states. 400hp V8 with 8000+ red line and comes in manual.

 

i think the srt is just your solution the pump out much more power and can be modified a bit more than the n/a , at the moment im just loving my car, im just not drag racing others cars, i dont really know how i will stand up to them , so i enjoy my dream car for what she is! unless i can turbo her... then shes getting a big fat turbo....

 

If the SRT came in a 6spd I would have tried to get one, But I've always been a fan of manuals. I have spent most of my life overseas where automatics don't seem to exist.

 

There is a guy on the MBworld forum with a CLK500 and a 6 speed MT, and 2 guys with SRT motors in NA's. Other than clutches they are doing fine.

 

theres actaully a kit developed to mate a tremec t5 to a mercedes engine. seems to be well built

 

Is that the one I was hearing about that costs 20,000?

 

I was a bit disappointed with this. I've had a search and am now more confused with people quoting BHP at the wheels etc. and can't seem to find a good basline as to what a stock car should dyno at roughly (none seem to get near the quoted 215). As far as I am aware the Dyno D only produces a flywheel approximation, so this is not the case with all dynos?

Anyway, mine is attached, it made 199.8 HP with the following mods:

Pipercross Induction Kit Air Intake System
Long Life stainless cat back exhaust
Top Gear Tuning re-map

What do you think?

 

Only thing I have read a lot about that did practically nothing is a changed exhaust (on the N/A). Lot of money for almost nothing (or nothing) gain.

.

 

I'd be interested to know what other people have had their n/a cars dyno'd at. I keep seeing lots figures for "at the wheels", but haven't found any figures like mine that approximate at the flywheels - is this a USA/UK thing?

 

We've put around 10 stock cars on a race calibrated dyno in 2013 and 2014. They were all around 200 HP (196 - 204).

We also had some cars with slight mods. Best one was 206 HP.

Exhaust mods in general had a little less max. power.

I know a N/A car that has real 250 HP at the rear wheels. But that had very cost intensive modiications. Ported heads, other camshafts, 200 cell cats, complete different air intake system, new injectors and so on and was optimized on the dyno.

Air filters, ECU tunes, sport exhausts are just a waste of time and money. If you get 10 hp out iof that stuff your'e lucky.

My car stays stock, because i don't care if i have 10-20 hp more or not.

If you want more hp, just bay a SRT6.

 

Only way to get flywheel hp is with engine on a stand, some that run dyno at the wheels use the percentage to estimate the flywheel hp, normal automatics loose 20-30 % hp from flywheel to the wheels with rotational mass, manuals usually 15 - 25 % with rotational mass, but with our manuals the heavy dual mass flywheel puts ours higher in the % range, makes the wheel hp on the manuals vs automatic more equal but with the flywheel does help with torque some.

That is why racers like rotary forged wheels, aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft, aluminum flywheel etc.
Those bigger brake rotors help stopping but also increases rotational weight.

1 lbs of rotational weight equals 10 lbs of static weight.
So if you put rotary forged wheels on the back and save 10 lbs of rotational weight you can gain 100 lbs over the holidays and your car will have the same performance.
They also say that removing 10 lbs of rotational weight will remove .1 sec of 1/4.
Me I like handling

 

bigblock427. I always like your posts. You tell like it is. It goes the same for the SRT6. I do find the wheel weight info interesting.