ECU Modification
http://www.eurocharged.com
You really should do a CAI from
http://needswings.com
and possibly a 68 MM to 74 MM throttle body upgrade before the tune to realize maximum power.
You really should do a CAI from
http://needswings.com
and possibly a 68 MM to 74 MM throttle body upgrade before the tune to realize maximum power.
Eurocharged, Needswings Single, 74mm TB, Knock off Borla exhaust. It's as good as it gets without an SRT6.
Eurocharged has been on sale and is a few dollars more than a VOLO and it actually does work. Clears codes, logs your runs. Decent tune.
Eurocharged has been on sale and is a few dollars more than a VOLO and it actually does work. Clears codes, logs your runs. Decent tune.
Might also want the oil catch can to keep the manifold clean.
I also installed a larger cone air filter on my single CAI.
just picked up a $15 dongle and spent $ 4.95 for torque pro for my Android.
Plugged in all the parameters to the best of my abilities and stepped on the pedal on my way on the highway on ramp. Now, everyone knows that this system is great for logging engine parameters other than torque and whp. It is in these areas that the calculations are more for entertainment purposes. That being said, seeing 267 HP during a pedal to the floor pull, entertained me quite a bit
.
Anyone using Torque Pro, please PM me with any quality info I might need.
I have vehicle weight, the weight of fuel, and my weight all figured out. Red line at 6K and 3.2 liters of engine. There were parameters for boost adjustments.....I wish I had some boost! anyway, there are adjustments for sea level that I just left at 0.
Oh, my sprint booster makes my car feel quite fast now that I have it adapted the way I like. People say, just plug and play. I say Hooey. Flash your car, then select your throttle map ( green or red), then perform throttle adaptions. Your crossfire will be fast, but not jumpy. If you adapt the throttle at stock setting, then turn the sprint booster on, the car is un drive-able. Shifts are impossible, the car is the opposite of fun to drive. I was ready to sell my sprint booster but I was determined to believe that it worked. I kept trying it, thinking that I just needed to learn how to drive a stick better. I love my sprintbooster now that I have reset the throttle with the system on already.
Plugged in all the parameters to the best of my abilities and stepped on the pedal on my way on the highway on ramp. Now, everyone knows that this system is great for logging engine parameters other than torque and whp. It is in these areas that the calculations are more for entertainment purposes. That being said, seeing 267 HP during a pedal to the floor pull, entertained me quite a bit
Anyone using Torque Pro, please PM me with any quality info I might need.
I have vehicle weight, the weight of fuel, and my weight all figured out. Red line at 6K and 3.2 liters of engine. There were parameters for boost adjustments.....I wish I had some boost! anyway, there are adjustments for sea level that I just left at 0.
Oh, my sprint booster makes my car feel quite fast now that I have it adapted the way I like. People say, just plug and play. I say Hooey. Flash your car, then select your throttle map ( green or red), then perform throttle adaptions. Your crossfire will be fast, but not jumpy. If you adapt the throttle at stock setting, then turn the sprint booster on, the car is un drive-able. Shifts are impossible, the car is the opposite of fun to drive. I was ready to sell my sprint booster but I was determined to believe that it worked. I kept trying it, thinking that I just needed to learn how to drive a stick better. I love my sprintbooster now that I have reset the throttle with the system on already.
Please be careful when resetting the throttle, the sprintbooster settings and reflashing your car with EC tune. If you should change the sprint booster settings during a reflash, you may encounter an error and requires support for your car to take even the old map settings.
Flash the car, restart the car, set the sprint booster to green or red, turn off the car, step on the gas pedal for 15 or so seconds with the ignition switch on, then turn of the ignition. Wait 2 minutes and then start the car and drive like the dickens.
Car will accelerate quickly but no herking and jerking.
Flash the car, restart the car, set the sprint booster to green or red, turn off the car, step on the gas pedal for 15 or so seconds with the ignition switch on, then turn of the ignition. Wait 2 minutes and then start the car and drive like the dickens.
Car will accelerate quickly but no herking and jerking.
wait a minute... how are you getting 267 hp out of this engine? ive done the ecu remap with euro, bigger throttle body, 74mm. and i dynoed at 223.8 hp at the crank. and a max of 278 ft lbs of torque. i want your magic!
Garbage in garbage out?
That is what they say about inputting false info into a computer, what you have put in affects what you get out.
You say you dynoed 223.8 hp at the crank, not wheels, and the official hp is 218 I believe. In your case you are getting very little hp increase for the $$$ invested. Something is wrong in both cases maybe.
How does somebody get the hp at the crank without taking the engine out? You even quote fractions of a hp. Any figures have got to be obtained using some percentage for losses and that is not an exact science.
You say you dynoed 223.8 hp at the crank, not wheels, and the official hp is 218 I believe. In your case you are getting very little hp increase for the $$$ invested. Something is wrong in both cases maybe.

How does somebody get the hp at the crank without taking the engine out? You even quote fractions of a hp. Any figures have got to be obtained using some percentage for losses and that is not an exact science.
Last edited by onehundred80; Mar 8, 2015 at 05:11 PM.
That is what they say about inputting false info into a computer, what you have put in affects what you get out.
You say you dynoed 223.8 hp at the crank, not wheels, and the official hp is 218 I believe. In your case you are getting very little hp increase for the $$$ invested. Something is wrong in both cases maybe.
How does somebody get the hp at the crank without taking the engine out? You even quote fractions of a hp. Any figures have got to be obtained using some percentage for losses and that is not an exact science.
You say you dynoed 223.8 hp at the crank, not wheels, and the official hp is 218 I believe. In your case you are getting very little hp increase for the $$$ invested. Something is wrong in both cases maybe.

How does somebody get the hp at the crank without taking the engine out? You even quote fractions of a hp. Any figures have got to be obtained using some percentage for losses and that is not an exact science.
It was a figure derived from the torque program. An entertaining look at vehicle data! I don't trust that figure very much though.
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