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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and DifferentialPost questions here that have to do with the engine, cooling system, air intake, exhaust, Transmission and Differential
I did a search and couldn't find any "how to's" on removing the 6-speed manual shift assembly. Also checked YouBoob and nothing. Does "anyone have any experience" in doing this task?" Next week I'm gonna put in new/used shifter and check all the bushings for wear. Car has 175k on her and hard to find 2nd gear slot from 1st gear. "No grinding" but just sloppy. If I lift slightly on the stick I can usually / sometimes find 2nd gear slot. Any help would "really" be appreciated! I have concerns about the exhaust and motor mounts. I'm certainly not excited if "maybe" having to drop the tranny to do this work!
Been trying to find a good image of the manual transmission shift linkage connections to the transmission. Are there bushings that should be replaced??? Seems there would be and need to know where to get them and their part numbers. Need side view pic or schematic of the connections of the shifter to the tranny!
Yes I have the manuals downloaded. Few days ago I printed out the shifter adjustment pages 21-387 thru 21-393. Info says to adjust shifter requires Special Tool 9120. Not having that tool makes things difficult. I'm wondering if the reverse lockout is out of adjustment will it cause shifting problems 1st to 2nd gear. They don't mention any troubleshooting help with shifter / tranny.
Guess I'll have to go ahead and put the, $429 new/used shifter assembly, on and do a physical inspection of the reverse lockout assembly and any related exposed parts. The mal-adjustment of the reverse lockout "may" be letting the 2nd gear slot going too far left thus missing the 2nd gear. I find that lifting the shifter slightly will let me find 2nd gear more easily.
Took the boot off my shifter and took a look. Found an understanding of what's going on. You'll see in the picture, the shinny wear mark, where 2nd is too far right of the alignment rail, aka same as the reverse lockout rail, by about 1/4" and is why I keep hitting 4th instead of 2nd. The rail is held in place by four screws and I don't think it's made to be adjusted. I don't see any slots in the rail holes where it could be moved. So now I figure it's either shifter wear or has something to do with the reverse cable adjustment. When I make the Miller Special Tool 9120 i'll check adjustment of the reverse cable.
Does anyone know what adjustment , if there is one, will make the shifter move to the left about 1/4" to align with 2nd gear instead of going into 4th gear? Is my shifter worn our after 175k? I bought another later model shifter assembly to replace the current one. Don't like spending the $420 needlessly when only an adjustment would fix the problem.
Made the Miller Special Tool 9120 today. I "plan" on installing my new/used shifter assembly tomorrow. I'll be needing the tool to adjust for proper reverse lockout adjustment.