Hey, everyone!

I recently attempted to install an LED brake light strip on my XFire and use the trunk light as a constant.

Only issue is -- my trunk light is drawing NO power.

I asked on a few FaceBook groups and everyone told me it was most likely the trunk switch.

I don't know where the trunk switch is for certain.

Any help on this is GREATLY appreciated.


Thanks!

 

If the cabin light goes on the trunk light should go on. Does the cabin light go on?
If not then maybe the switch above the mirror is set to OFF.
The trunk light switch is in the hatch catch natch. It should work cabin and trunk light, as does the door switches.

 

180 is right, I believe the latch works as a normally closed circuit. Don't take that as gospel, I'll check tomorrow

 

I forgot to say my fuse is fine -- my dome light works and the TL and DL are both reliant on the same fuse. I can also turn on and off my DL with no issues.

 

Then you have a wiring issue ......

 

Go to the Central Locking Pump, it causes more problems than you an shake a stick at.

 

I am confused why you would need a "constant" for a LED brake light strip.
Shouldn't you just need a ground and the B+ from a brake light bulb ?
If you need a "constant", you can pick up a "always hot" or a "hot in switch on" from the locking pump wiring.

( why not just wire the LED strip in parallel to the CHMSL ? )

 

I was told by Adrian there isn't really any other place to pull constant from. My goal with the TL is to achieve the sequencing lights, by the way.

 

He was talking with me about doing what I have for the car. The strips in question can act as turn signals too and sequence though they need a constant source for that function. Otherwise there's no need for a constant. His trunk light however is a dud looks like, which means he has to get it from somewhere else.

Maybe the locking pump is the only option available in this case, though I try to not have any extra stress on a part like that one since it's so important.

 

The RD/GY (Red Gray) wire on the cargo lamp socket is hot all the time. If yours is not hot all the time, then as George said, you have an open wire from there to the splice after the fuse.

OR you are fooling yourself cause you don't have your meter grounded well when measuring the voltage there! (And if you tell me that the light isn't coming on and you are assuming there is no power there, without measuring it, then take the car to someone to wire it for you; NO ONE can trouble shoot wiring or electrical issues by guessing and a light not coming on proves nothing!)

 

I checked it with a voltmeter. Dead.