Just recently the keys stopped unlocking the door. It's not the keys battery they are fine, the unlock button in the car isn't working either, and I am not able to put gas in the car or open the trunk the car starts up fine and drives fine I just can unlock anything is there any way to manually open the fuel door?

 

Start with fuse 26 Central Locking
You can probably unlock it manually by sucking ot blowing air in the line from the Central Locking mechanism. From service manual page




8N - 44 POWER LOCKS - SERVICE INFORMATION
Open the access panel in the right rear interior quarter trim


panel.


2. Remove the pneumatic supply line (2) from the fuel door


lock actuator.




Note: Use caution when removing fragile pneumatic supply


line fitting.






3. Release the lock pin from the lock actuator by pulling the


handle (1) fully rearward.

 

To do this he has to have access to the trunk, the first photo shows the pump hidden at the bottom of the trunk and the second the lock actuator.
In the first photo you can see the yellow air lines, there are two going upward and the first one, the right hand one is the one to the actuator.
Somehow you have to remove the bottom trim panel and access the first air line and see if you can blow or suck down it to release the lock.
The problem is probably a pump that has got wet, which ruined it.
All the above applies if it is not just a simple fuse blown which seems a rare occurrence.
There are threads on pump replacement, itis a pricey part though - $400 to $500 for a used one.

 

Yep. I was just checking that. Find a small child to assist. Assuming that this is a coupé not a roadster.

 

Is it possible to reach the red thing on the lock mechanism by removing a trim panel ? Isn't that red thing in the second picture a manual release ?

 

Probably it is, I never really thought about it. A real pain in the RS job though any which way it is done.

 

I have another idea, if the O.P. ever comes back after 1 post and still needs something to try,.

 

It's a coupe. So it is the alarm system that is shutting everything down or something?

 

Sorry for replying late we are trying to get someone to fit through the opening to get in the trunk

 

Search this forum for the downloadable service manuals, it will help a LOT.
1 - if you can get a small child in the back, and remove the interior soft trim, there is a manual release for the fuel door.
2 - the locks work off of air via tubes, I believe, pressure locks and suction unlocks, but I will have to check. There is a "Central Locking" pump under the trunk floor, under the Styrofoam that controls it all. See if you can hear it doing anything. Turn the ignition on, but don't start the car, so you can hear, and try the unlock switch on the dash, while someone listens under the back of the car (or the small child in the back).
If nothing is heard, check fuses 25,26. If you hear hissing anywhere, the might be a broken/loose air line.
3 - My other idea is, assuming no leaks, and you have a non-functioning pump, I wonder if you can access the air line going to the passenger door, and use that to pressurize/suction the system and unlock the fuel door/rear liftgate.
I will read the service manual and see what I find.
Good luck, and keep us all posted.

 

We got the fuel door open (Manually of course)

 

Thanks Pioneer and thank you onehundred for the pictures they help. We still got to find out why the unlock buttons don't work. At least we can put gas in it

 

I double checked the Service Manual and found out 2 things.

1 - Pressure unlocks & Vacuum locks
2 - There are 3 lines, 1 is drivers door, 1 is fuel door, and 1 is for BOTH liftgate and passenger door.
(Assuming no air leak, I think if you accessed the passenger door mechanism, and applied pressure to that air line, you will unlock the rear liftgate, then you are golden!)
If anyone has the passenger door already apart, please test this.





To unlock, the Body Control Module is actuated by the SKREEM. The Body Control Module then sends the signal


to the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module (CLP/SSM) via the Controller Area Network (CAN) Bus. The


CLP/SSM pump motor starts running and supplies air pressure. The door lock actuators are pressurized. When a


pressure threshold is reached in the system, the pump is switched off by an internal pressure switch. The pressure


in the system is then released by the CLP/SSM and the unlocking operation is completed. The locking procedure is


accomplished in a fashion opposite to the unlocking operation. However, the next time the remote control button is


pressed, the CLP/SSM is also actuated by connecting it to ground by the second control lead on the SKREEM. The


direction of rotation for the CLP/SSM pump motor is reversed, thereby providing the vacuum required to lock. In


order to avoid unlocking the vehicle unintentionally, the vehicle is relocked by the CLP/SSM via the SKREEM.


Relocking is accomplished after unlocking with the remote control when: a door is not opened within 40 seconds,


the key is not inserted into the ignition lock, the interior power door lock switch is not actuated, only the liftgate is


opened after unlocking. The CLP/SSM reads the signals (door contacts, trunk lid, interior power door lock switch)


and actuates the power door lock actuators. The vehicle security alarm is also activated by the relocking function.

 

Evening, folks.
Our coupe's central locking has lately been erratic; the hatch started taking eternity and much groaning to release, then fob button usage started flashing the lights but not changing lock status upon key fob press, and now fob buttons do nothing - I suspect water damage to the trunk's central security module /locking pump. The hatch did randomly unlock last night, but it was too cold (and late) in our Chicagoland driveway to start pulling trim to get the foam piece out to examine the module.

So son Max has been manually locking passenger door and then key-locking the driver door at school. However, tonight was a very minor disaster - he was 15 miles away with the low fuel warning light on when he discovered the fuel door had locked, and central unlocking was still inoperative. Lucky for the two-gallon reserve (or very conservative warning light), he got home fine (at a slightly lower pace than usual).

Anyway, thanks to this excellent thread and images, we soon had the skinny teen dive into the rear. We started removing those black pop-up fasteners when I had an idea. He pulled the inside fuzzy panel flap (that lets you change taillight lamps), looked forwards and outwards with a flashlight to follow the yellow pneumatic line, and was able to see (and actuate!) the red manual lock release handle to release the fuel door. This saved him time messing with the trim fasteners and panel in a confined, cold place, so I offer this method to anyone else to use when fuel addition is urgently needed and no tools readiliy available.

And skinny teens aren't too hard to find...vaguely remember being one myself.

P.S. = Moderators: buried in regional might not be the best place for this thread...

 

how did you get it opened?

 

onehunfred80 once advised to remove the interior trim on that side until you can see the yellow air hose going to it.
Disconnect / cut this hose and suck / blow on it to operate the latch.

 

 

Sorry, my mistake, I was too lazy to research so was just relying on my infallible memory.

 

ive seen a lot posted about the pumps getting wet. My question is why do they get wet and where does the water get in at and also what can be done to prevent this from happening ?