I have had my Crossfire for only 4 days and the brake dust on the front is starting to annoy me. The only solution is to upgrade my pads. The cheapest Rotex pads i found are $85. Anyone found them cheaper? Do i need some for the rear as well or just the front. Just asking for brake performance issues. I haven't noticed dust on the rear wheels.


Thanks,

Ferhad

 

good question, if you find an answer please do make me aware.... cheers!

 

Most folks have changed out the front only. I have EBC "Greenstuff" pads. They're a lot cleaner than stock but I think something out there has to do just a little bit better keeping the dust down... will try something else next time.

 

ROTEX GOLD IS THE BEST.The best $s ihave spent on mine!Call Brakewarehouse Randy,800-814-0702. Just front all you need.

 

How long have you been running those? - Has anyone gone over 15,000 miles on a pair yet? If so did they start squeaking?

 

This has been discussed before...do a search on brakes...
Try the usual sources...
TireRack
Brakewarehouse
Brakeworld

For normal street use, I don't think you need to change the rear pads...They don't do much braking work...

 

I put miine on after talking to Randy at BWH,now have 11k+ and clean and squeak free.I put them on after 800 miles.Only fronts.

 

Thanks....I was going to ask the same questions

 

I do have a question on everyone that has installed their non-squealing brakes... after you put the pads on with the "quiet" grease... if you have it... did you follow a strange pattern of reverse.. forward... and stop and go methods???

 

Follow the brake in directions.

 

gotch ya... will do!

so let me guess when I had my dealer do it last time with the porterfields... they never did anything like this.. or told me to do this...

 

I have a set Porterfield (Front & Rear - New In the Box, including silencer kit from MyMercrded.com ) if anyone wants the I'll sell'em for $150. Paid $200 including shipping.

Changed my mind and got the Roltex from Breakworld - after reading the instructionsfor the Porterfeild pads, the mere mention of "Squeaks" scared me. Some folks don't like the EBC others have complained about the squeaks with both EBC & Porterfeild. CRC Seems to solve their problem.

Put the Roltex on (Front Only), used CRC Break Quiet. Didnt follow any break-in instruction. Did do several forward & everse Stops to make sure the breaks still workedafter I changed the pads. Followed the instruction I dowloaded. Real easy job. If you do it yourself don't forget the Lock Tight and CRC Break Quite. Had to purchase a 7MM Hex Socket. Just drove as normal. No Squeaks or problems yet.

 

You don't need to do the forward and reverse thing with disc brakes, that is done with drums to "self-adjust" the shoes.

Still, it doesn't hurt anything and it is nice to know for sure that you can stop safely in either direction!

Matt

 

Thank you Matt! thats great to know! I was going to install them myself... not really just me... my father included... but he's gonna be pretty busy the rest of the week... .looks like im gonna have someone put them on for me... but not my dealer... i just dont like them lol... ill go to another DC dealer and hav e them do it

 

ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Tools Required:

flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench

Steps to follow:

1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)

2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.

3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)

3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.

4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.

5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.

6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.

7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.

8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.

9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.

10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).

11.) Reinstall sensor wire.

12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.

13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.

14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.

15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.

 

I would like to add:
3. I recommend caliper retracting tool (<$10) or C clamp instead
11. The brake pad wear sensor is on both front brakes
14. Book says 81 ft lbs.,
10. 7 mm Caliper retaining (allen) bolt torque is 41 ft lbs and should be coated with silicone grease or caliper grease.