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Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Having battery drainage problems.Lights flickering on dash and overhead light.Hard draw it seems from arc that I'm getting.Spoiler doing it's on thing,radio comes on at start up when jumped.Car will run when jumped,but will not restart.Towing alarm button switch stays lit up..:confused: Central vacuum system went out, inwhich I removed it.Can car operate okay with out it?Had drainage problem before removal of it.Central vacuum boards inside burned to crisp.Also seems to have transmission connector bushing leak.Could wet pins and plugs on connector adapter cause short circuit?Also hearing clicking sound under hood on passenger side and seems passenger area upon starting,then stops.Has anyone encountered this problem before?Any feed back will be appreciated.:(
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Speaking as a 31 year electronic technician: You can't measure current by the appearance of the spark you see. PERIOD. You have GOT to insert a meter in series with the battery cable and see what you REALLY have. THEN you can proceed.
I see indications of a bad battery or perhaps horribly corroded battery terminals, corroded battery ground cable lug or a very weak alternator. And a burnt circuit board? I'd like to see that one explained before you go any farther, you COULD have high alternator output which has damaged electronics and overcharged and ruined the battery - but this would be VERY rare, it's possible but I don't really think it is the case. It's hard to know where to start here, but an ammeter in series with the battery cable and doors closed, key off and removed from the ignition - once you connect the meter, let it settle down (takes the modules 1/2 minute to initialize) - you should see no more than .05 amp which is 50 milliamp. I'd prefer to see around .02 but anything under .05 is likely ok. IF you meter does show .02 to .05 amp, then we can move on from there, but that is the FIRST thing I would say, given what you have posted. We are having a tech day on March 5 in Oakwood on the shore of Lake Lanier, you should join the ATL group so you are not so alone! On Facebook, we are "CROSSFIRES IN THE SOUTH". |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Okay,thanks I will get started on it this morning and try to narrow it down.Also I will check out the local crossfire group as you suggested ..This car is tweeking my nerves.Curious,what could be the clicking sound under hood on passenger side when key is turned on.Then it stops.Would like to place it in shop.Afraid of the shops here.Have had some bad experiences with my GTI mark lv ,before here.Either your over charged and workman ship and job crap.Went to a few shops yesterday and part stores.They had no clue.After seeing that the tech was clueless and was calling around and researching something as simple as a trans elect harness connector and O rings.Of course I pulled off.Will keep this updated.And welcome all helpful information.Much more then I bargained for,for sure....:( :confused:
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Okay , today I checked it out using a meter.I'm getting a crazy reading of 11.7 On Dc setting.
As I suspected,what ever it is going on it is pulling crazy current.I set up meter to ground side and pulled All fuses individually ,no drop in the current at all. Completely baffled at this time. Would a scan detect open circuits?And what could possibly be pulling so much power.Still got blue arc when touching terminal and post.I'm open for suggestions |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858082)
Okay , today I checked it out using a meter.I'm getting a crazy reading of 11.7 On Dc setting.
As I suspected,what ever it is going on it is pulling crazy current.I set up meter to ground side and pulled All fuses individually ,no drop in the current at all. Completely baffled at this time. Would a scan detect open circuits?And what could possibly be pulling so much power.Still got blue arc when touching terminal and post.I'm open for suggestions Get the battery checked, I suspect a poor battery, if so replace it and then check for the drain. The multimeter meter needs to be set to the amps reading, not volts. There is always some drain as readings have to be kept in some of the modules, no power to them and they have to be reset. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858040)
Having battery drainage problems.Lights flickering on dash and overhead light.Hard draw it seems from arc that I'm getting.Spoiler doing it's on thing,radio comes on at start up when jumped.Car will run when jumped,but will not restart.Towing alarm button switch stays lit up..:confused: Central vacuum system went out, inwhich I removed it.Can car operate okay with out it?Had drainage problem before removal of it.Central vacuum boards inside burned to crisp.Also seems to have transmission connector bushing leak.Could wet pins and plugs on connector adapter cause short circuit?Also hearing clicking sound under hood on passenger side and seems passenger area upon starting,then stops.Has anyone encountered this problem before?Any feed back will be appreciated.:(
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858082)
I set up meter to ground side
THe meter will have (usually) two ammeter inputs, one rated for 10 amps or more, one for much less. Use the lesser and if you get NO current, you have blown the meter's internal fuse, so go get some spares first. Pick up some clip leads so you can set up the meter and stand back and watch the current settle after about 20 seconds. THAT reading is what you want, not the initial one that will be higher as the modules are resetting. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
See
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cro...3720a37949.jpg
Here is the meter that I'm using.I set leads into,Red V and COM.Set dial at the red AC/DC side, flipping switch to DC settings.Connecting one lead to negative battery post other to terminal. As stated ,it gave me a unchanging reading of 11.7 with all power off and doors closed.How would I set this meter to give me a reading in amps? |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
One lead in COM, the other in 10A socket. Set meter to 10A position.
Disconnect negative battery cable, connect one lead to the disconnected cable terminal, the other to the negative battery post. If no reading on 10A scale, try putting that lead in the mA socket and setting the meter to 200m |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858124)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cro...3720a37949.jpg
Here is the meter that I'm using.I set leads into,Red V and COM.Set dial at the red AC/DC side, flipping switch to DC settings.Connecting one lead to negative battery post other to terminal. As stated ,it gave me a unchanging reading of 11.7 with all power off and doors closed.How would I set this meter to give me a reading in amps? Don't ever try to measure voltage in parallel with the lead in the 10A or the mA connector. The meters internals will get very upset. The black meter lead would go on the neg. batt. term on the battery and the red lead would go on the black wire you removed from the neg. batt. lead. IE inserting the meter in series with the circuit. Make sure all doors are closed and nothing is left on. Did you watch the video I posted above? He shows the entire process to find the culprit. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by KDW4Him
(Post 858130)
Red to the V makes the meter a volt meter, red lead to the 10A makes it a current meter. Voltage readings are done with the circuit hooked up as built or in parallel, current readings are done in series or breaking the circuit and inserting the current meter in series with the measurement needed. It looks like you should select 20m/10A setting in the lower left on the dial switch at about the 8 o'clock position.
Don't ever try to measure voltage in parallel with the lead in the 10A or the mA connector. The meters internals will get very upset. The black meter lead would go on the neg. batt. term on the battery and the red lead would go on the black wire you removed from the neg. batt. lead. IE inserting the meter in series with the circuit. Make sure all doors are closed and nothing is left on. Did you watch the video I posted above? He shows the entire process to find the culprit. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Okay I charged the battery over night. I've placed meter leads to neg battery and terminal and set meter as advised.At first it showed a reading of 0.56 then settled to 0.01. Does this sound correct,is this reading normal?Could this be a bad Battery?
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858138)
Okay I charged the battery over night. I've placed meter leads to neg battery and terminal and set meter as advised.At first it showed a reading of 0.56 then settled to 0.01. Does this sound correct,is this reading normal?Could this be a bad Battery?
Ready for some voltage tests? Put the meter red lead back in V and the dial on 20V in the 10 o'clock position. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Actually put the meter in the 2v setting at the 10 o'clock position on the dial. With the red lead in the V spot on the lower left of the meter and NOT in the 10A spot to do this test...
Start the car, turn the blower motor on high, bright lights, wipers, A/C, etc. all electronics you can turn on turn on. Measure the voltage from the engine block to the NEGATIVE battery post. actually on the lead post of the battery not on the part connected to the cable but the actual battery post. You should see no more than 0.2 volts. This proves the negative battery lead is not corroded or there is a poor connection at the battery or the block. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858138)
Okay I charged the battery over night. I've placed meter leads to neg battery and terminal and set meter as advised.At first it showed a reading of 0.56 then settled to 0.01. Does this sound correct,is this reading normal?Could this be a bad Battery?
Originally Posted by KDW4Him
(Post 858147)
Actually put the meter in the 2v setting at the 10 o'clock position on the dial. With the red lead in the V spot on the lower left of the meter and NOT in the 10A spot to do this test...
Start the car, turn the blower motor on high, bright lights, wipers, A/C, etc. all electronics you can turn on turn on. Measure the voltage from the engine block to the NEGATIVE battery post. actually on the lead post of the battery not on the part connected to the cable but the actual battery post. You should see no more than 0.2 volts. This proves the negative battery lead is not corroded or there is a poor connection at the battery or the block. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858157)
Okay,But the problem that I'm seem to be having when doing this.I'm getting a hard arc and blue not red spark when hooking up battery.Okay ran check got a reading of 2.1 .After shutting car off ,I tried to restart and got nothing.All lights work and horn blows.Not even a click from attempting to crank.Tested battery and got reading of 12.7 volts.Nothing even after trying to boost.Car would start with a jump before,but just has something robbing a lot of current from somewhere. Starter failing to engage now.Like a security kill start.Also spoiler light is flashing and did not before.Could I have a open relay?Also be advised that central vacuum pump has been removed due to it frying.Can car operate with out it?:confused:
2.1 what? Amps from our first test set up meter in series or 2.1 volts from our second test set up seeing if the neg cable was good. If it was the voltage test for the ground wire I would investigate that. If you are losing 2 volts with just the cars accys on you are probably losing 5-6 volts when cranking or trying to crank. You may even see the entire 12 volts! We have had several reports of ground wires right at the block being very corroded. Did the jumper cables or battery ever get connected with the wrong polarity? Meaning the neg cable to the pos term and the pos cable to the neg term? A battery voltage of 12.7 may still not supply the needed current (read amps) to start the car due to internal resistance in the battery. Or a corroded neg wire. You have some strange stuff going on with only those symptoms. It's like we are missing part of the story. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by KDW4Him
(Post 858161)
The arc means nothing. You actually measured it with the .56 reading on the meter before it settled down to 0.01. It's just all the electronics getting their initial voltage when power is connected.
2.1 what? Amps from our first test set up meter in series or 2.1 volts from our second test set up seeing if the neg cable was good. If it was the voltage test for the ground wire I would investigate that. If you are losing 2 volts with just the cars accys on you are probably losing 5-6 volts when cranking or trying to crank. You may even see the entire 12 volts! We have had several reports of ground wires right at the block being very corroded. Did the jumper cables or battery ever get connected with the wrong polarity? Meaning the neg cable to the pos term and the pos cable to the neg term? A battery voltage of 12.7 may still not supply the needed current (read amps) to start the car due to internal resistance in the battery. Or a corroded neg wire. You have some strange stuff going on with only those symptoms. It's like we are missing part of the story. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
If jumpers were ever hooked up incorrectly, there is a really good possibility that the alternator is shot, along with a plethora of other electronic related tidbits.
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by ala_xfire
(Post 858176)
If jumpers were ever hooked up incorrectly, there is a really good possibility that the alternator is shot, along with a plethora of other electronic related tidbits.
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858181)
This is wierd ,just now was hooking up batt,and as I touch post I get a loud long engaging type click,clucking sound seeming to come from around black fuse box next to batt.And either rear breather or around tranny bell housing area.As if a component is energizing .Like a solenoid .Is there any major elect components around front of tranny?
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858181)
This is wierd ,just now was hooking up batt,and as I touch post I get a loud long engaging type click,clucking sound seeming to come from around black fuse box next to batt.And either rear breather or around tranny bell housing area.As if a component is energizing .Like a solenoid .Is there any major elect components around front of tranny?
Oh and pardon my frustration and forget fullness to thank everyone for all advise given. Thanks for the help that has been given. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Start with BRAND NEW BATTERY and make sure the ground cable to the fenderwell is 100% corrosion free.
Go from there to a new alternator if needed. It's probably that simple. Drive over here and I'll help ya ! Decatur -> Lineville about 110 miles, I should know, I lived in Stone Mountain for 20 years and made almost monthly trips to where I live now. In-laws lived here then. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Charge your battery, do not turn on lights. Go to Autozone,an have them to run diagnostic. Even better; take ala_fire up on his offer. Removing battery cables was good for testing voltage regulators in 50s,60s,70s, NOT for newer models. I'm following your posts but can offer no better advice, at this point.
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by ala_xfire
(Post 858192)
Start with BRAND NEW BATTERY and make sure the ground cable to the fenderwell is 100% corrosion free.
Go from there to a new alternator if needed. It's probably that simple. Drive over here and I'll help ya ! Decatur -> Lineville about 110 miles, I should know, I lived in Stone Mountain for 20 years and made almost monthly trips to where I live now. In-laws lived here then. I should be receiving the alternator tomorrow .And replace the battery.Is the alternator a easy swap out?..I've been here for two years now. Actually from Port Saint luice,Fl. And ready to relocate lol.Lineville would be north of here? |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858190)
Okay,I let car sit and run for a bit,lights off..I shut car down and surprisingly it restarted.Then I turned on headlights and all hell broke lose.Spoiler light started blinking and dash lights flickering.Shut it down and no start...I've read this somewhere on here before.
Oh and pardon my frustration and forget fullness to thank everyone for all advise given. Thanks for the help that has been given. If you have a 2.1 volt drop from the batt post to the block I would inspect that cable before replacing the alternator. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by KDW4Him
(Post 858206)
You never did say if that 2.1 was volts during the run all accy on test of the ground wire, was it?
If you have a 2.1 volt drop from the batt post to the block I would inspect that cable before replacing the alternator. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
My first alternator cost me almost 2 1/2 hours of frustration. THe second one (NAPA replaced the defective unit free) took me 40 minutes.
There are two versions of the lug on the battery charge cable and two versions of housings on the alternators. I guess it's a crap shoot if you get the right one, I don't know. My second unit had the right physical configuration. If it is not right, you can use snips to cut away the offending plastic on the back of the alternator. TO change a NON-SRT alternator: 1) Remove battery ground cable and tuck it away so it can't come in contact with the battery post. 2) Remove the engine fan assembly. 3) Remove the belt. 4) Remove the two bolts. 5) Wiggle and struggle the alternator from it's two mounting points. (The next two steps may be reversed, based on the size of your hands, etc. If 7 looks easy, do it then do 6) 6) Unplug the electrical plug. 7) Using a socket and rachet, remove the battery post nut 8) Pivot, twist and harass the alternator out and toward the front of the car. 9) Tap the shims in the front mounting holes forward so the new alternator will slide in with some slop - makes putting the new alternator in there easier and putting the bolts in a breeze. Now, start at 7) and go backwards. To Change an SRT alternator: 1) Sell the damn car or call Chuk in FLorida for guidance. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Ok, I'm done editing the above post.
I think. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by foxxfire7
(Post 858195)
Okay,thanks
I should be receiving the alternator tomorrow .And replace the battery.Is the alternator a easy swap out?..I've been here for two years now. Actually from Port Saint luice,Fl. And ready to relocate lol.Lineville would be north of here? |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
A few additional hints to Mark's excellent instructions :
On removing the engine fan assembly : unplug the connector, remove the 2 top clips and it will come out with some coaxing by the various hoses. If you have to remove the grooved alternator pulley, use a 1/2" air wrench to remove and reinstall the nut. When putting the new alternator in, hook up the wires and cables, then mount it with the top bolt loosely. You can then swing it down and get the bottom bolt in. If you have a 3/8" air ratchet, the job is MUCH easier.
Originally Posted by pizzaguy
(Post 858209)
My first alternator cost me almost 2 1/2 hours of frustration. THe second one (NAPA replaced the defective unit free) took me 40 minutes.
There are two versions of the lug on the battery charge cable and two versions of housings on the alternators. I guess it's a crap shoot if you get the right one, I don't know. My second unit had the right physical configuration. If it is not right, you can use snips to cut away the offending plastic on the back of the alternator. TO change a NON-SRT alternator: 1) Remove battery ground cable and tuck it away so it can't come in contact with the battery post. 2) Remove the engine fan assembly. 3) Remove the belt. 4) Remove the two bolts. 5) Wiggle and struggle the alternator from it's two mounting points. (The next two steps may be reversed, based on the size of your hands, etc. If 7 looks easy, do it then do 6) 6) Unplug the electrical plug. 7) Using a socket and rachet, remove the battery post nut 8) Pivot, twist and harass the alternator out and toward the front of the car. 9) Tap the shims in the front mounting holes forward so the new alternator will slide in with some slop - makes putting the new alternator in there easier and putting the bolts in a breeze. Now, start at 7) and go backwards. To Change an SRT alternator: 1) Sell the damn car or call Chuk in FLorida for guidance. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by pizzaguy
(Post 858210)
Ok, I'm done editing the above post.
I think. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
:p
Hi Everyone, Well I'm happy to announce that she is back up and running:cool: Must say I feel much better and will probably sleep better tonight,knowing she's back up and this is behind me.Replace alternator and battery.Alternator wasn't making power upon testing it on car running.12.3.. Tested for resistance ,none as far as a drain.After replacement got a reading of 14.3. Back of alternator was burned and melted around the wiring area.Lights brighter and all now. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cro...21985482c3.jpg This is the alternator |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
WHen mine went, I smelled it and saw the charge light come on. Raised the hood with engine running, and it was throwing sparks and smoke out the front and back! :)
It went up like Three Mile Island.... |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
I have had problems with my battery, last month I found it dead flat, no interior lights at all, I put it on a trickle charger and it said it was fully charged after after a day. I thought that to be strange, today it was dead flat again. I found about 7 volts across the terminals. I suspect the battery has died during hibernation. With the battery flat none of the interior LEDs came on either. Can anyone please tell me why that was?
I think I will have to put my old OEM Varta back into the car I have kept it charged for the last four years. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
:p
Okay,I changed alternator and new battery $350 later and she been up and running.Thanks Everyone Excuse the Re-post |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Thanks for reporting back !!!!
See, I told ya so - see post #23 in this thread. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by onehundred80
(Post 858461)
I have had problems with my battery, last month I found it dead flat, no interior lights at all, I put it on a trickle charger and it said it was fully charged after after a day. I thought that to be strange, today it was dead flat again. I found about 7 volts across the terminals. I suspect the battery has died during hibernation. With the battery flat none of the interior LEDs came on either. Can anyone please tell me why that was?
I think I will have to put my old OEM Varta back into the car I have kept it charged for the last four years. |
Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by onehundred80
(Post 858523)
Thanks for the replies, but I figured it out myself.
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Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain
Originally Posted by dhuibhsidhe
(Post 859081)
What was the issue because my SRT-6 has ALWAYS done this since I stopped driving it every day.
I recharged the battery again and it did not happen again. No drain found above normal. I think I had left it uncharged too long and the battery tender said it was charged after a day when it actually was not charged enough. Recharging using the tender took three days or so and has just dropped a half volt since. I am still a bit suspicious though. |
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