Cruised about 50 miles today in the hot heat. Everything seems to be fine after lunch on the way home. Then suddenly the dreaded stalling out at a red light. Would crank but not run. Rolled over to the side of the road, then pushed it into a parking lot. Did I say it was hot out today?

Opened the hood and thought about it while cooling off. My first thought, crank sensor. I have a spare with me. Looked at the sensor in the car, could not see it for the bright sunshine all around. Skip it for now.

Swapped out the RCM with a spare I had, no change. Put the old one back in. I could hear the fuel pump run with key on.

Tried one more time and now the battery dead! Won't crank, just click, typical sound of low battery or bad connection. Checked what I could, all looks good. Called my son for a jump-start. Now about 1/2 hour my son shows up, car cooled off, starts right up with a jump. Alternator charging at 13.9 / 14.0.

Make it within a mile of my house and quits again. Coast into shade and wait again to cool off. I still don't want to change out the crank sensor with a hot engine. Sat there for a while and police show up to help. Again after just several attempts, car acts like a weak battery. I told him I needed a jump but I kept the conversation going so the car could cool off.

Finally the jump box comes out the car fires right up. We get home safe and sound. Let the car cool off. I check my records that the Interstate battery is 7 years old! Wow does time fly!

So my plan of attack for tomorrow - Replace battery regardless of test results, replace crank sensor with OEM I still have in the package, and clean and check ground cables.
NO check engine light or codes.

I will keep you posted as time permits. James

2004, 72K.

 

Definitely sound like the CPS is the cause of the stalling and the battery is just old and ready to be replaced
I know how time flies as my battery hit the 7 year mark in February this year when I discovered it nearly dead even on a battery tender in the garage
Went and got a new one and all is fine all summer
Best of luck but I feel you are on the right track here

Gary

 

When you change the CPS, don't forget to spray down both sides of the connector with contact cleaner.
As to battery, got a new AGM in the Crossfire, but I just yesterday detected the slightest "gruumph" from the starter in the 2002 Concorde, 10 year old battery there.
Best be getting a new one for her.

 

Good luck in finding the solution to your problem.
I was doing a bit of an investigation today on the operation of the fuel pump, it may not be relevant to your problem only tangentially.
The fuel pump is activated by the key being turned to the ON position and is timed to run for some seconds by the TCM at which point it is turned off. To start running again the pump needs good signals from the CKSP and the CMSP sensors. The pump then runs continually while the engine runs, excess fuel being returned to the tank.
Like you I would change the battery as well, I figure four to five years for a battery. Mind you my last one lasted less than two years and died in the winter hibernation even though hooked up a couple of times to a tender. The OEM Valeo still holds a charge and it too is kept charged, it was made in 2004, amazing.
Personally I would look at the connector to the CKPS for corrosion, no moving parts in it and the only thing that can happen I guess is the coil insulation fails.
Remember the CKPS is removed easiest by removing the screw before undoing the connector. Putting tape into the socket so it is a tight fit I hear is a good idea

Again good luck.

 

Dave, Some manufacturers use oil pressure readings for running the fuel pump after the primer cycle was complete. Maybe they were hoping to save an engine with no oil also.

 

Just replaced the Mopar Battery from '11 with a Sears advanced gold AGM (on sale). Can say a Crossfire does strange things when the battery is weak (spoiler extends, carries on cranky). Not very tolerant of a weak battery.


Also electronic components do not like excessive heat - keep my cars under 200F. Didn't have to do anything to the XF, seems to run 185-190 almost all of the time.

 

I read that elsewhere but the Student Reference Book spells it out.
There is more in that book about how the car runs than the Service Manual, it is a good book. As is the similar book on the roadster and the SRT6 supercharger.
Maybe some of it is in error who knows.

 

I will need a new spare sensor to carry around. Anyone object to this item or should I go somewhere else?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251543616975...84.m1423.l2648

Mercedes C230 C320 CLK320 E320 ML320 S430 SLK230 Crank Position Sensor Bosch New | eBay

Thanks, James

 

As long as it is the correct one and it is Bosch ya cant go wrong
I assume it was the CPS that was causing your troubles ?

 

$26
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0261210.../dp/B001COAS78

 

yes sounds like a bad CPS, see ya in a few weeks at woodward

 

Changed out the CPS tonight. Battery will be a few days.

My socket would not fit on the bolt with the connector in tact. It didn't seem like a big deal to remove the connector first. The easiest way for me to remove the bolt was with a 15" extension and a universal joint on the socket. Tape did help with holding the bolt for installation. Thanks for your replies.

James

 

Ordered. Thanks.

 

James - One bad day on a 12 year old car with 72K miles is actually a good thing! Glad you made it home safely.
Mark your calendar now to replace the new CPS in July 2028 or at 144K miles, whichever comes first.

 

message to self, NOTED!

 

The battery I bought is a MTD-91/T6 to replace my MTD-91. The MTD-91 is no longer made but you may be able to find old stock. Also I am now told by Interstate that MTD-91 has been replaced with the MTD-48/6H.

The MTD-91/T6 does not list CA or CCA. Nor does the website.

Anyway, I drove the car nearly 100 miles tonight and no trouble. Hopefully the crank sensor was the problem.

Thanks for the replies. James