so ive been having nothing but challenges with my crossfire srt.

So the issues,

When driving after about 45 min the BAS/ESP Light comes on and the super charger looses power almost like its put into a limp mode.

Thought maybe IC pump or the IAT were to high. replaced the intercooler pump, then the water pump. Added a coolant separation kit. Change the IAT sensor, the cam sensor, the RCM.

Problem still persists.

So finally broke down and bought a scanner.
First the MB2 by icarsoft. was able to pull codes if i put it in as a mercades slk32 amg however was not able to clear them even if i tried.
The next day after attempting to clear codes the ABS light came on when i started the car. Wasnt able to pull the ABS codes with the MB2 so I retuned it.

Scanner 2 well actually 4 if you count the two cheap ones i owned before this.

Ordered an Altel MD808 Pro. (reached out to altel directly and they assured me this scanner would work)
Well go figure it didnt.
wasnt able to pull it up as a crossfire, it couldnt even access the modules.
then again connected as a slk and could pull the codes, but not the abs, couldnt clear the codes either.

Attached below are the codes.
c1024, c1174, c1410, p207c,P2314, P2318


Any help would be extremely appreciated.

 

A couple things come to mind; Do not know if they will help you.
How old is the battery? Many electrical problems can be solved with a new battery.
Have you downloaded the most recent update for your scanner? You know the drill, garbage in, garbage out.
Is there a transmission fluid leak; check the electrical connector on the passenger side of the transmission. Also pull up the carpet in the passengers foot well and check the TCU for any signs of moisture both water and transmission fluid. (oil can weep up the wires)
Pull the electrical connectors from the brake master cylinder and the ASB block under the hood, clean the contacts, and reinstall.
After all that is done you must get the codes cleared and start from scratch.
Maybe that will give you some ideas. I hope it was helpful.

 

One other thing. Code P2314 is a communication code. I think it differs between models, but generally ETC one or more messages from N93 central gate way not on CAN bus and N93 I believe is something to do with ignition.

 

List of trouble codes.

 

Hey Guys, Still trying to figure out whats going on with this car.


SInce replacing the parts mention above: Replaced the intercooler pump, then the water pump. Added a coolant separation kit. Change the IAT sensor, the cam sensor, the RCM.

ive also changed out the oil in the super charger. replaced all spark plugs, wires & and coil pack. Swapped out all Wheel speed sensors. motor mounts, fuel filter, crank pulley and front main seal. alternator and battery have also been changed.

Im still getting codes P2314 and P2318 and having issues with the super charger not staying on. Altho its been cooler down here in florida and the past few days we havent had an issue. yet those two codes still remain current.


any thoughts?

 

Have you googled the codes online? Try here : 2318
Sorry I have nothing specific for the Crossfire. For a Dodge it is more specific towards Coil packs, particularly on #5 cylinder.

 

do I follow the dodge code Coil packs, particularly on #5 cylinder.

or the

Mercedes code P2318 One or more messages from control unit N15/5 (Electronic selector lever module control unit) are not available on the CAN bus.

 

If you are sure you are getting a Mercedes code I would go with that as first choice. Then I would contact a Mercedes mechanic and try to get his/her insight as to possible repair. Sometimes spending a little money for some help will save a lot of $ in the long run. Wish I could help more, but I have no experience with that particular code. Good Luck.

 

What ever happened with JoeF89
I have the same problem with mine! SRT 6
05 with 50K
Total loss of power after 30 mins of Highway driving (Sometimes)
wait 5 mins and restart car everything is back to normal

 

So I thought it was the distance to the clutch from the pully, I had thought it was to great,

However, when I removed the pully there were no shims behind it.

So I just cleaned it up and then put it back on, and after that, it's been as good as gold.

I will say when taking it off, it was stuck on their sho hard, I had to use a pry bar and a rubber malott. Beat the crap out of it, added heat, added penetrating oil.
Finally, it budged.

 

My question is to this
When driving after about 45 min the BAS/ESP Light comes on and the super charger looses power almost like its put into a limp mode.

 

yupp, same thing here, it was the super charger pully gap between the electromagnetic clutch and the super charger pully

 

Thank you