Gang,

I have a 2004 Coupe. Last summer, I replaced the Blower Motor Resister with a Ultra-Power RU547 ($33.79) from Rock Auto. Installation simple and has worked like a charm. On Saturday, a burning smell come from the dash. Turned off the car and it stopped. I had the car towed to my dealer, who has confirmed that both the Blower Motor and the Resister are "fried". The parts from the dealer are insane ($1500 for the motor and $921 for the resistor). Rock Auto has a few options for the Blower Motor (GPD $120.00, Four Seasons with wheel $139.00, Mopar 5139032AA $298.00 and Mopar 5139032AA $1007 which is what is in the car). Wondering what could have caused the parts to fry? Is it possible for the Resister to cause a short and fry itself and the Blower Motor, or is there something else in the circuit which could have caused the frying of the components?

Thoughts ...

P ...

 

I see some mistakes here;
1, Towing it, $$$$
2, Taking it to a dealer.$$$$
3, Believing the dealer. $$$$. Their second language is lying.
4, Dealer markup on motor - $493 over RA, you can get it $1,380 cheaper
5, You know you can get a resistor $888 cheaper.


Get it out of there ASAP.

 

I spoke with Mopar today. The 509900AA is a blower motor, and 5139032AA is a Blower Motor with Wheel. Not sure what the difference is. Can the wheel from my old Blower Motor be moved to the Blower Motor without wheel?

Not understanding what the cause of the burning smell was coming from, I thought that it would be wise for my dealer to do the diagnosis. The dealer is pretty cool with me supplying the parts and they supply the labour (roughly 2 hours) to do the work. I'm good with simple things, but don't have a ton of tools, so I rely on them for the "heavy lifting".

 

I imagine the wheel is the blower fan (squirrel cage).

 

I always try to buy the OEM brand when I replace something on my car. I don't trust some of the generic brands that are out there. Here is an option for what you are looking for and the prices are very reasonable.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2028209342
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2108206210

 

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Seriously, The blower COMES with the squirrel cage and costs SO MUCH LESS from many auto parts outlets, the resistor costs SO MUCH LESS than the dealerships from about the same number of auto parts outlets. Surely you know to never take your car to the dealership? If you cannot do the gymnastics to get to the blower motor (I think 3 bolts/screws) and the resistor (taken out before the blower motor (I think no more than 3 bolts/screws), then GO TO AN INDEPENDANT MB MECHANIC (after you buying the parts) and that guy (the MB Mech) will charge you a modest labor for the replacement of those 2 parts. The motor (blower) might have gotten jammed from debris in the cowl and caused the current to rise past the capability of the resistor, I can think of nothing else that could have taken out the 2 of those parts (IF the dealership showed you the parts). You must have seen members here being told to never take the car to a 'stealership'? The cost ($2500+) JUST FOR THE PARTS is outrageous, get your car out of there! OR, maybe you have lots o $ and you have an expense account that pays for this?


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Thanks Gang,

I’m picking up the Crossfire this morning from the dealer. They’ve already put it back together. I replaced the Blower Motor Resister myself in June. The gymnastics was not too bad. It would be nice if the blower motor was in fact clogged with debris. Sadly, they told me that they could see evidence of the overheating of both parts. I do like the idea of Mopar or OEM parts, however, they can be so much more expensive than the 3rd party parts. More to come, once I get the car and inspect the damaged parts.

 

You do not want any Mopar parts ever in this car. A Mopar part is the identical item to the Mercedes part but marked up about 50%. You pay the premium for the dealer to go to the local Mercedes parts department and before giving it to you they will put a Chrysler label with the Chrysler part number on top of the Mercedes label.

 

Your resistor going out the first time was a sign your blower motor was pulling too many amps. When you replace a blower motor resistor always replace the motor as well.

 

Thanks gang ...

Appreciate all the help. I'll check out our local Mercedes parts supplier.

P

 

Hi gang,

I pulled the resistor and blower motor out of the car. The motor was seized. I loosened it up with ample amounts of WD40 and got it spinning (with a drill). Applied 12 volts and at started to smoke. So much for the blower motor. The Mopar part is stupidly expensive. Up here, I've sourced a 4 Seasons (Model 75897) blower motor for $140 CND. Any thoughts on the quality of 4 Seasons? I don't see any damage to the Blower Motor Resistor. So my plan is to order the Blower Motor and see what happens.

Thoughts?

Thanks ...

 

I would try to get the OEM brand Behr Hella that is the original manufacturer for Mercedes would be the safest and most reliable route. The links I originally gave you have alternate part numbers. Good luck.

 

Hi Ronman,

thanks for the links. I have a call into Behr Hella to cross reference the part number (91.774.50.047) which is on the blower motor. I have found 202-820-9342 in stock in CND for about $205 (about $60 more). I think that you're right, better to pay a little bit more for the OEM product.

 

i put aftermarket ones in all the time and haven't had a issue yet. the a/c gets used a lot down here.

 

Second that, every aftermarket part I ever bought has/had a warranty as well. In all my years & vehicles, rarely do I buy an OEM (unless it is a clearance OEM new part). PS pumps, alternators, fuel pumps, suspension parts, A/C compressors, inside fan with cage, fan resistors, I could go on and on. Only once did a reman PS pump have a problem, and they took it right back. That replacement PS pump is still on my camaro (must be 7 or 8 years now no problems). If it gives you more confidence, get what you want its all up to you.


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Gang,

It was really easy to pull out the Blower Motor (4 screws). I'm a small guy, so no problem sitting on my back in the passenger side. I ended up going with the 4 Seasons blower motor ($141.00 CND) and a generic blower motor resistor. So far, working well. I also changed out the Cabin Air Filter. Thanks for all the help.

 

Hey Phil, thanks for coming back and letting us all know your issue is resolved! Smooth cruising in 2020!


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Good to hear you have sorted it for a decent price Phil! Happy New Year!

 

Looking for help on this old thread. I have a 2005 Crossfire Roadster and the blower motor is not operating. So far I have:
1. Ran straight power to blower - it works
2. Installed new VEMO (Made in Germany) Regulator/Resistor
3. Took apart control module and glued circuit boards and notched housing per previous posts.

Still not operating. I am wondering if faulty Regulator/Resistor was shipped or is it the controls ?

Note: When I reinstall heater controls and plug in wiring harness, if I wiggle the harness (before securing grey slide lock - the blower will turn on at full power. Once fully connected with slide lock then it wont turn on - all that while no key in ignition). Secondly, when I turn the key on I can here a click noise from the blower when I push the REST button.

Running out of ideas and not sure I can find a used Control Module up here in Canada.
Not really handy with using multimeters and all that stuff - Hope someone sees this before it starts to snow (Yes its my daily driver)

 

Earlier in the thread you can see everyone not agreeing with me to use OEM parts. Lately everyone has noticed that the aftermarket blower regulator/resistors are defective. I would try to get the Behr/Hella oem blower resistor/regulator first. If that doesn't solve your problem then buy a used climate control module on eBay that ships to Canada or is located there. Most of the time it is the regulator/resistor. Good luck!